Panisse Takes Center Stage on the Côte d’Azur

Nestled in the picturesque southeastern corner of France, Nice basks in a dreamy summer atmosphere. Mornings bring vibrant markets brimming with fragrant local produce, while afternoons are filled with lively pétanque games under the sun. As glasses of refreshing pale-pink Provençal rosé circulate during aperitifs, the delightful aroma of thyme, rosemary, and olives wafts through the air; this is the scent of panisse, the popular chickpea fritters served by the dozen from nearby Mytouries.

In a nation famed for its fried potatoes, chickpeas may seem an unexpected favorite. Yet, known as “lou cèe” in the local Niçois dialect, this protein-rich legume is a cornerstone of southeastern French cuisine. Thriving in the arid, nutrient-poor soils of the Mediterranean, chickpeas are a dietary staple, best enjoyed fried, hot, and salty, with no utensils needed.

A straightforward blend of chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt, panisse is primarily regarded as a Marseille delicacy—located 100 miles west of Nice—where street kiosks like Chez Freddy fiercely guard their secret recipes. The 19th-century Provençal poet Frédéric Mistral even noted, “A Marsiho vèdn de panisso” (in Marseille, we sell panisse). However, local culinary historian Alex Benvenuto argues that Nice may have an even stronger connection to this dish. 'Panisse probably originated in Genoa, Italy, and was embraced and prepared in Nice before making its way to Marseille,' he explains.

Today, Nice is reestablishing itself as the premier destination for panisse, transforming this classic snack into a trendy favorite. “In recent years, panisse has evolved from street food to gourmet fare, as the city’s chefs enhance Niçoise cuisine,” says Romain Maksymowycz, a former journalist for Nice-Matin and a long-time food scene observer. You’ll spot it on menus at local festivals, trendy bars, and the most exciting restaurants, where chefs are experimenting with new flavors and presentations. It’s the snack of the moment in one of the world’s most glamorous locales.

What makes panisse so delightful?

Chef and writer Kalice Brun, hailing from Nice, describes how the region’s street food culture emerged from “strong” ingredients like chickpeas. “It wasn’t about catering to tourists; it was about nourishing the locals before their workday began,” she notes. Like other regional favorites such as pissaladière (a focaccia-like dish topped with onions, anchovies, and olives) and pan bagnat (a bread roll stuffed with salad niçoise), hearty panisse serves to satisfy hunger effectively.

Recently, panisse has gained popularity among chefs for its versatility. “Panisse allows you to create fries without actually frying,” says Hugo Loubert, chef and co-owner of Lavomatique, a bistro that evolved from a laundromat in Vieux Nice, the city's historic district. The restaurant's menu features innovative small plates, including a veal tongue and kimchi burger, and has attracted attention for its unconventional approach to traditional cuisine. The adaptability of panisse makes it perfect for creative culinary experiments. “You can flavor panisse more freely than you would traditional fries,” Loubert explains, adding cumin, thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper to his panisse.

Rosa Jackson, owner of the cooking school Les Petits Farcis in Nice and author of the forthcoming cookbook Niçoise, frequently opts for panisse instead of French fries to accompany dishes like mussels. “I also find panisse pairs wonderfully with saucy dishes like daube,” she remarks, referring to the classic Provençal beef stew. While she adheres to the traditional recipe, adding just herbs or olives, Jackson has observed that “people are experimenting with [panisse] more than they used to.”

At Babel Babel, a bar and restaurant boasting a prime view of Nice’s stunning Baie des Anges, panisse fries take on a Mediterranean flair. “Our menu blends recipes from various cultures, so we top our fried panisse with a homemade za’atar mix featuring dried marjoram, sumac, and sesame seeds for an added zing,” shares co-owner Olivier Daniel.

While panisse is mainly savory, Brun fondly remembers her grandmother serving a sweet variation as a goûter (after-school snack). “She would dust the fritters with sugar that I’d lick off my fingers,” she recalls. “Now, when I make panisse, I add a touch of sugar and cream, which complements the chickpea flour beautifully.” Occasionally, she even includes sparkling water for a “lighter, airier flavor.”

Brun is open to experimenting with flavors like orange blossom water or rose sugar, but one ingredient is essential: oil made from cailletier olives, native to the Alpes-Maritimes and known as Taggiasca in Liguria. “Local olive oil is crucial as it imparts a buttery taste,” she emphasizes.

What sets panisse apart from other chickpea snacks?

Panisse is related to various chickpea dishes worldwide, such as fainá in Argentina and Uruguay, karantika in Algeria, and farinata in Italy. It shares a particularly close connection with socca, the thin chickpea pancake regarded as Nice’s traditional street food. While the base recipes for socca and panisse are nearly identical, socca is baked in a wood-fired oven on a hot, flat skillet, resulting in a very thin pancake. In contrast, panisse batter is boiled in a pot, allowed to set, and then fried in olive oil, creating a distinct contrast between its crispy golden exterior and creamy interior. As Jackson puts it, the ideal panisse is “crispy on the outside and nearly creamy on the inside.”

Nice's panisse also differs from the version found in Marseille. “In Marseille, the batter is typically rolled in a towel to create a cylinder, from which circles are cut and fried,” explains Jackson. In Nice, the batter is traditionally shaped using a saucer (a handy tool in most kitchens), par-cooked, and then cut into strips like French fries before frying. You’ll often find par-cooked rounds ready for home cooks to slice into fries as desired. “This smaller fry shape enhances crispiness during cooking,” notes Benvenuto. The flat sides and sharp edges of Nice’s panisse allow it to achieve a crispier texture compared to Marseille’s rounded variety.

Where to enjoy panisse in Nice:

La Merenda

In this charming, rustic Mytoury with just 24 seats, chef Dominique Le Stanc offers Niçoise classics like soupe au pistou (a summer vegetable soup) and pissaladière. A half moon of panisse pairs perfectly with the tripes de veau à la niçoise (veal tripe) or daube de bœuf à la Provençale, ideal for soaking up the rich stew sauce. Reservations are a must, but there’s no phone, so reach out via social media.4, rue Raoul Bosio, 06300 Nice

Babel Babel

Featuring a wine list focused on natural wines from small producers and lesser-known grape varieties, along with creative cocktails using unique ingredients like olive oil fat-washed gin, it’s no surprise that Babel Babel’s za’atar-dusted panisse is a delightful twist on the classic. The fries are served by the half dozen, but you'll likely want to order several rounds.2 Cr Jacques Chirac, 06300 Nice

Lavomatique

Chef Loubert, originally from Normandy, discovered panisse only after relocating south. The dish debuted on the menu shortly after the restaurant opened in 2018 and has quickly become a favorite among both locals and visitors. 11 rue du Pont Vieux, 06300 Nice

D’aqui

The arrival of D’aqui is marked by a striking graffiti mural of a woman in traditional Niçois attire, showcasing the colors red and black. Enjoy panisse served by the dozen, either plain or sprinkled with Parmesan, or try the panisse burger, which features two panisse discs as buns filled with beef, a vegan patty, or a veggie omelet. Pair your meal with a local craft beer.28 rue Cassini, 06300 Nice

Maison Barale

This historic establishment in Vieux Nice, located just off the fragrant Cours Saleya markets, has been crafting fresh pasta specialties like daube-filled ravioli since 1892. Here, you can find panisse sold in the traditional saucer shape, available partially cooked. Grab a few to prepare at home or in your vacation rental. (Maison Barale also provides panisse to La Merenda.)7 rue Sainte-Réparate, 06300 Nice

La Boulisterie

If you’re looking to enjoy pétanque alongside your panisse, this bar in Nice’s trendy Le Port area is a must-visit. Housed in a repurposed warehouse, the venue features an open-air design that offers ample space. On the menu, the delicious wedges of panisse, generously seasoned with salt and pepper, are perfect for sharing among friends.16, Rue Lascaris, 06300 Nice