Passengers on a New Expedition Vessel in Greenland Are Encouraged to Embrace the Unforeseen

We burst from our cabins, cameras in hand, quicker than an Arctic gyrfalcon swooping down. Moments before, Captain Erwan Le Rouzic announced over the loudspeaker, “You must all come to the outside decks. There are not just 10, 20, or even 100, but probably several hundred whales surrounding us!” We had to witness this spectacle.

He truly wasn’t exaggerating. From the Observation Deck, it appeared as if the Fountains at the Bellagio had been extended across the horizon, thanks to the sprays from the blowholes of countless fin and humpback whales.

“This is extraordinarily rare, even for Greenland,” one of the expedition guides informed us, noting that whales seldom travel in such large groups and had likely been drawn into this bay by an abundance of food. “It really makes you feel like an explorer.”

“That’s precisely our purpose for being here,” I reflect. In a world increasingly overrun by tourism, Greenland remains unique. Although it is the largest island on Earth (about three times the size of Texas), its predominantly Indigenous population is just 57,000 strong, and prior to the pandemic, only around 68,000 visitors came each year. (For comparison, Times Square sees nearly twice that number of visitors on an average day.)

It’s true that visitor numbers are expected to rise in the coming years—innovations in polar sailing, including a growing fleet of ice-breaking ships, are making this region more navigable. Recently, many cruise lines have launched their inaugural voyages to Greenland.

Experiencing the Journey on the 'Scenic Eclipse II'

In fact, this was the inaugural voyage of the 228-passenger Scenic Eclipse II, the newest expedition yacht in the Scenic Luxury Cruises fleet, which set sail for the ice-laden island for the first time in April 2023.

The new 10-deck vessel is brimming with comforts. Each cabin, from the cozy 344-square-foot entry-level suite for two to the expansive 2,745-square-foot penthouse suite for four, features private balconies, daily-restocked mini-bars, flat-screen TVs, beds with adjustable pressure and position settings, and dedicated butler service.

Dining options abound with eight choices, including two exclusive tasting-menu restaurants: the French-inspired Lumiere, where caviar, escargot, and champagne are staples, and the Night Market, which showcases a different Asian cuisine each night. There's also the invitation-only Chef’s Table offering a 14-course culinary journey with wine pairings, and the lobby-level main bar, boasting over 100 complimentary whiskeys and bourbons. Just inform your butler of your preferences, and they will arrange for a decanter to be delivered to your room.

Additional amenities include a library, a fitness center, a spa complex offering massages, facials, and beauty treatments, as well as gender-specific sauna, steam, and salt therapy rooms, all accessible to guests. A laundry room is available for guest use at no charge, and we spent considerable time in the theater, where expedition staff conduct daily lectures on topics ranging from Arctic wildlife to the impacts of climate change on Greenland.

While the onboard amenities and services are impressive, the ship’s true charm lies in its capability to reach more remote destinations.

Thanks to its stabilizers and dynamic positioning, the ship doesn't require anchoring, allowing it to access spots that larger vessels cannot reach. Onboard equipment like kayaks and Zodiacs—small, inflatable motorboats—bring passengers closer to the natural environment. Although it wasn’t available during our trip, future cruises will feature the custom-built submersible Scenic Neptune II, capable of diving up to 650 feet deep.

One day, we boarded a Zodiac in a paradise-like bay along the Nansen Fridtjof peninsula, gliding between chunks of glacial ice. Approximately 80 percent of Greenland is enveloped in ice. In summer, as temperatures rise, enormous pieces calve off and drift along the coastline. These fragments vary greatly in size, from colossal tabular icebergs as large as aircraft carriers to smaller bergy bits, akin to baseballs, bobbing like corks in the restless water. Their shapes are equally fantastical, resembling whimsical doodles brought to life.

Another onboard feature, a pair of Airbus H130-T2 helicopters, allowed us to appreciate the stunning scenery from above. With Scenic Eclipse II anchored near the sprawling tongue of a massive tidewater glacier in the Skjoldungen Fjord, three fellow passengers and I ascended into the sky. At an altitude of 1,000 feet, we traced the icy river, marked by deep crevasses and dotted with pools of such otherworldly blue that they seemed like gateways to another dimension. Soon, we found ourselves soaring over the Greenland Ice Sheet, an expanse of pure white extending more than 1,200 miles long and 500 miles wide, where the horizon stretches infinitely. This landscape feels both lunar in its desolation and more radiant than the most vivid sunset.

We were fortunate to seize that opportunity for a flight. Later in the journey, airborne adventures became scarce due to a low cloud ceiling.

The unpredictability of cruising in Greenland

On the inaugural day, after a lecture on responsible tourism—covering topics like preserving plant life, refraining from petting wild dogs, and honoring local cultures—expedition leader Xavier Garcia emphasized the importance of adaptability for an unforgettable and enjoyable journey. While we would be visiting several towns (Narsaq, Nuuk, and Ilulissat) with planned activities like sharing a meal of smoked Arctic char with a local family or touring museums to understand the locals' lives in such a challenging environment, our excursions beyond these ports would be influenced by daily conditions.

This need for flexibility is common across all expedition voyages, particularly when navigating remote areas where unpredictable weather can disrupt plans, but it's especially true for trips to Greenland.

In contrast to more established expedition locations like the Galápagos Islands, Svalbard, and Antarctica—frequented by cruise lines for decades—Greenland is still relatively new to the cruise scene. Companies are in the process of discovering optimal spots along its 27,000-mile coastline for activities such as hiking, Zodiac excursions, and polar plunges. (We experienced a polar plunge near the slender arm of a tidewater glacier, where the water temperature hovered just above 40 degrees—most participants emerged shivering and cursing.)

For Garcia, who had previously visited Greenland only once before our voyage, this involved researching the historical significance of the landscapes and ice we would encounter, studying navigational charts, and conducting aerial surveys with the helicopter beforehand. Though they are still gaining experience, these itineraries are expected to improve over time. In 2024, the itinerary will be branded as the Greenland Explorer—starting in Reykjavík before heading to Fjallfoss in Iceland’s Westfjords and continuing to Greenland for an 11-day adventure. (Three days will be spent in towns, while the remainder could be anywhere along Greenland’s coastline from the Fridtjof Nansen peninsula in the southeast to Upernavik in the west.) Following this, guests will fly to Copenhagen to conclude their journey.

"Our plans extend beyond just this journey; we’re also laying the groundwork for future explorations," Garcia shared with me. He expressed his hope that visitors would leave with more than just a tick on their bucket list. Instead, he aspires for them to forge a connection with this vast, rugged wilderness and become responsible stewards of its delicate ecosystem, particularly as the impacts of climate change on nature and wildlife are so evident. He envisions them as modern explorers—not in the traditional sense of conquering, as sailors of the past did, but rather as individuals who are truly connected to their surroundings.