Peranakan cuisine: An introduction to one of Southeast Asia's most beloved and diverse food cultures

Found primarily in Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia, Peranakan food is among Southeast Asia's most fascinating culinary traditions.

Known for its vibrant flavors and eye-catching colors, Peranakan cuisine is distinct for blending Chinese, Malay, Indian, and Eurasian ingredients and cooking styles.

Main dishes are often rich and flavorful, featuring savory gravies with aromatic herbs and spices (a nod to Malay influences), but also incorporating pork and fermented soy bean paste (reflecting Chinese traditions).

Meals were traditionally served at room temperature, as eating with hands was a common practice influenced by Malay customs.

“It’s one of the earliest examples of fusion cuisine,” says Lloyd Matthew Tan, author of “Daily Nonya Dishes: Heritage Recipes for Everyday Meals.”

The origins of a culture and its culinary legacy

Peranakan culture emerged in the 15th century when Chinese men migrated south in search of fortune and married local Malay women.

Being “Peranakan” means “locally born,” a term the community used to distinguish themselves from the newer wave of Chinese immigrants arriving in Singapore and Malaysia during the 19th and early 20th centuries.

The men were known as “Babas” and the women “Nonyas.” There were also other Peranakan groups, such as the Jawi Peranakans and Arab Peranakans, but the Chinese Peranakans were the largest community.

By that time, the Chinese Peranakan community had already carved out its own distinct identity. Instead of Mandarin, they spoke a blend of English, Malay, and Hokkien. They became Anglicized and fostered strong relationships with the colonial settlers. Many took on roles as bureaucrats or traders, with some amassing great wealth—a stereotype that persists today, as depicted in the movie “Crazy Rich Asians.”

The Peranakans have long been known for fiercely guarding their family recipes, especially in earlier times. They dedicated days to perfecting their dishes. Since Peranakan women who didn’t work were responsible for managing the household, the presentation and appearance of a dish became a way to showcase their culinary expertise.

“We are not zen,” says Alvin Yapp, the curator of The Intan, a Peranakan museum based in Singapore.

In Singapore, interest in Peranakan cuisine has surged over the past 20 years.

Peranakan food can be found everywhere, from casual hawker stalls to upscale restaurants. In 2016, it gained global acclaim when Candlenut became the first Peranakan restaurant to earn a Michelin star.

Winning the award was a moment of great pride for Malcolm Lee, the chef and owner of Candlenut. The fourth-generation Peranakan learned the cuisine from his mother, aunt, and grandmother.

“It demonstrates that even simple, home-cooked meals can earn recognition,” he says.

Here are 10 iconic dishes that offer a fantastic introduction to Peranakan cuisine.

Ayam buah keluak (chicken cooked with black nuts)

When people think of Peranakan food, ayam buah keluak is the first dish that comes to mind.

The highlight of this dish is the buah keluak, often referred to as the “black gold of the East” for its truffle-like, dark chocolate flavor and foie gras-like texture, according to Sharon Wee, author of the cookbook “Growing Up in a Nonya Kitchen.”

The nuts are harvested from mangroves in Malaysia and Indonesia. Fresh buah keluak contains cyanide and must be fermented in soil for several months to neutralize its toxicity. After being sold, they are soaked and scrubbed for days to remove the earthy taste.

Some prefer to cook the nuts directly with the chicken and gravy, but Wee removes the flesh, mixes it with marinated minced pork and shrimp, and stuffs it back into the nut. She then simmers it with chicken in a fragrant gravy made of lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, chillies, shallots, candlenuts, tamarind, and coconut milk, creating a rich orange-brown stew best served with rice.

Babi pongteh (braised pork with fermented soybean)

Babi Pongteh is another staple in Peranakan cuisine. Pork belly is slow-cooked in a garlic and shallot paste, along with bamboo shoots. Some variations replace the bamboo shoots with Shiitake mushrooms or potatoes due to the difficulty in sourcing fresh bamboo shoots.

The dish is defined by its fermented soybean paste and toasted ground coriander, according to Candlenut’s Lee. The paste imparts a rich umami flavor, while the coriander powder adds an earthy note that balances the richness of the pork belly.

Topped with crushed red and green chilies, this dish can be served over a bed of rice or paired with a buttered baguette to soak up the flavorful sauce.

Hee pio soup (fish maw soup)

Hee pio soup is more than just fish maw. It’s packed with a variety of other ingredients. Wee’s version includes meatballs, fishballs, chicken, cabbage, and egg rolls stuffed with fish paste, all swimming in a savory pork broth.

According to Wee, the soup was traditionally served at Peranakan Lunar New Year feasts. While the Chinese would eat whole fish for luck, this was the Peranakans' version of a fish dish.

In Chinese cuisine, fish maw – the swim bladder of a fish – is considered a delicacy, alongside abalone and sea cucumber. Though it may appear simple, Wee says the soup reflects the Peranakans’ commitment to serving lavish, thoughtful meals.

Ngoh hiang (minced pork and shrimp beancurd roll)

Ngoh Hiang is a crispy beancurd roll packed with a flavorful filling of minced pork, shrimp, water chestnuts, onions, and ground coriander.

Some variations include carrots, mushrooms, and five-spice powder for extra flavor. The roll is first steamed, then pan-fried to golden perfection.

Lee prepares his rolls a day in advance, steaming them and letting them rest in the fridge overnight. This helps them become crispier and more golden when fried.

Because making these rolls is time-consuming, Peranakans often prepare large batches to freeze and have on hand for any occasion.

Sambal belachan (shrimp paste chili)

Sambal belachan is a fiery spice explosion that pairs perfectly with nearly everything, even a simple bowl of rice.

The chili paste is made by blending belachan (fermented shrimp paste), red chilies, kaffir lime leaves, and a touch of sugar. Occasionally, roasted garlic and shallots are added for extra depth of flavor.

Traditionally, belachan was made by sun-drying krill, pounding it, shaping it into patties, and sun-drying those patties again. These days, you can find it ready-made in supermarkets.

It can be enjoyed as a dip with a squeeze of calamansi lime, or used as a marinade for meat or a stir-fry base for vegetables.

Satay babi (stir-fried chili pork)

Satay babi exemplifies the blend of Chinese and Malay culinary traditions, says Wee. This dish features pork, which is avoided by practicing Muslims, and is stir-fried in a chili paste made with local spices and coconut.

Satay babi was one of the first dishes young Peranakan girls would master. At the age of 12 or 13, they would learn how to pound a mix of lemongrass, candlenuts, chilies, shallots, and belachan, before cooking it with pork and coconut milk.

With its simple steps and few ingredients, this dish serves as an introduction before tackling more complex recipes like ayam buah keluak.

Hati babi bungkus (minced pork and liver balls)

Hati babi bungkus has become a rare find in modern Peranakan homes due to the labor-intensive preparation. To try this dish of tender, bouncy meatballs, you'll likely need to visit a restaurant that specializes in it.

The pork liver must first be de-veined and cubed, then combined with minced pork, shallots, and ground coriander. This mixture is wrapped in pig or cow caul lining, steamed, fried, and served with pickled mustard greens and chili, according to Raymond Khoo, former owner of Singapore’s The Peranakan restaurant.

Khoo humorously adds that being on good terms with your butcher is essential for making this dish correctly, as you'll need their help to carefully remove the caul lining.

Gerang assam (sour and spicy tamarind gravy)

Gerang assam is a staple in Peranakan homes, typically prepared with either fish or shrimp.

The process starts with a spice paste made from shallots, lemongrass, candlenuts, turmeric, blue ginger, red chilies, and belachan, mixed with tamarind juice and a pinch of sugar, then simmered with your choice of seafood.

The tamarind, or assam, is the key ingredient that imparts a tangy, refreshing kick to the dish, making every bite irresistible.

Chap chye (mixed vegetable stew)

Not a fan of vegetables? Chap chye may just change your mind. This hearty stew combines cabbage, Shiitake mushrooms, wood ear fungus, lily buds, soybean sticks, and vermicelli, all simmered in a flavorful fermented soybean paste and stock.

Historically, chap chye was made with pork belly and shrimp, but it's just as easy to prepare a vegetarian version. Like babi pongteh, this dish was also used in rituals for ancestor and deity worship, says Tan.

Chap chye tastes even better the next day, as the flavors continue to meld together. As with many Peranakan dishes, it’s best enjoyed with a side of sambal belachan.

Kueh ko sui (palm sugar cake)

Time for dessert! Peranakan cuisine offers a variety of sweet treats, and kueh ko sui stands out as one of the favorites. This chewy, wobbly cake is easy to prepare but requires the right ingredients and precision to get it just right.

To make the cake, gula melaka (palm sugar), rice flour, tapioca flour, and lye water are mixed together. The batter is steamed, cut into cubes, and then coated with freshly grated coconut.

The cake’s bounce and texture depend on the balance of rice flour to tapioca flour, and the precise amount of lye water used, says Annette Tan, chef at Peranakan private dining venue Fatfuku. She also notes that using high-quality gula melaka is essential for a subtle smoky flavor.