Philadelphia is a city where experimentation thrives and taking chances leads to great discoveries
On a scorching Thursday night in Philadelphia’s Society Hill, every seat at Zahav, the iconic Israeli restaurant, is occupied, from the dining tables to the bar stools and private rooms.
The expediter at the kitchen window is juggling a flurry of orders, each one including dishes like branzino with sweet corn, creamy eggplant, Persian rice, and braised lamb shoulder with pomegranate molasses.
Just a few feet away, chef and co-owner Michael Solomonov is multitasking—sliding his signature laffa bread into a 900-degree oven, directing his staff with both warnings and praise, and curating the playlist (this time, Drake’s ‘Nice for What’).
By the time he hits 40, Solomonov has transformed from a troubled past—marked by addiction and dropping out of college—to a father, cookbook author, and four-time James Beard Award recipient.
The chef credits part of his success to his choice to settle in Philadelphia. After graduating from culinary school in Florida, he was headed for New York but decided to take a detour.
It didn't take long for him to realize that Philadelphia was just as exciting as New York but with far more affordable living costs.
‘Philly is a blend of communities that come together to create an amazing place to live,’ says Solomonov. ‘It’s forward-thinking, rich in history, and offers more freedom than some of our pricier neighboring cities—freedom to be yourself, experiment, and take chances.’
Philadelphia is already a must-visit spot. It’s Rocky. It’s the Liberty Bell.
But Solomonov urges visitors to explore even further, to discover the city’s restaurants, cultural treasures, and neighborhoods shaped by immigrant communities like his own, which give the city its vibrant character.
Solomonov spent a few days showing Dinogo Travel his personal take on a city tour.
Roam the city without relying on a map.
With its museums, parks, and historical landmarks, Philadelphia offers so many activities that it's easy to feel overwhelmed. The city’s downtown is second only to midtown Manhattan in the U.S. for the number of cultural institutions in such a concentrated area.
Solomonov has a simple morning routine he highly recommends: take a long walk along Walnut Street.
Though he’s a fast walker, you can enjoy a relaxed stroll starting from the shaded, tree-lined campus of the University of Pennsylvania, heading past Rittenhouse Square, and continuing on toward Washington Square Park, where you can unwind away from the tourist crowds.
Solomonov often takes this walk with his business partner, Steve Cook, a former investment banker turned chef. Together, they operate Zahav, Federal Donuts, Goldie, and Abe Fisher. They note that the number of homeless people on the streets is hard to ignore. According to the US Census, one in four people in Philadelphia lives below the poverty line.
Solomonov and Cook launched The Rooster just two blocks north of Walnut on Sansom Street, at South 16th Street. It’s a cozy, diner-style spot, and all profits support a hospitality program at the Broad Street Ministry.
Next, head to FRIEDA, a coffee shop and community hub offering activities for seniors, Yiddish lessons, and chocolate buttons – cookies dipped in chocolate with a crunchy, smaller cookie inside. Afterward, you’ll pass through the historic area, which includes the National Constitution Center.
Keep an eye out for a plaque marking Alexander Hamilton’s former home at 226 Walnut. He lived here for five years, and it’s the location of his affair with the married Maria Reynolds.
What to see:
- Cafe Olé: Coffee paired with Mediterranean snacks, 147 North 3rd Street, Philadelphia
- Curtis Center Building: A historic building showcasing a Maxwell Parrish mosaic that Solomonov admires, 601 Walnut Street, Philadelphia
- Rail Park: A serene elevated park, 1300 Noble Street, Philadelphia
- Mikveh Israel Synagogue: Open to visitors with guided tours available on request, 44 North 4th Street, Philadelphia
Don’t wander too far without grabbing a bite.
Solomonov was born in Israel but raised in Pittsburgh. As a teenager, his family began spending extended periods in Israel. At first, he felt like an outsider, mainly because he only knew ‘Hebrew school Hebrew.’ His perspective shifted when he started working at a bakery.
Solomonov describes an Israeli bakery as being like the town hall, especially on Fridays.
‘I went from being a recluse in the States to becoming part of a vibrant community,’ he says. ‘I fell in love with hard work, with creating things with my hands. I’ve always had a bit of ADD, and I finally found something I was good at, something that allowed me to make a living—and it’s a lot better than selling pot.’
The Israeli community in Philadelphia traces its Jewish roots back even before the country was established. The historic Congregation Mikveh Israel claims to be the oldest continuously operating synagogue in the U.S.
One in 10 Philadelphians was born abroad, and Solomonov suggests immersing yourself in the city’s immigrant communities by dining at their restaurants.
Pho 75 is a family-run gem that has been serving hearty bowls of broth, noodles, and tender beef for over 20 years. It’s a spacious, laid-back spot with long tables, dishing out thousands of bowls of pho every day. The restaurant gained widespread fame after a visit from the late Anthony Bourdain, and mentioning his name still brings a respectful nod from the staff.
There are two Pho 75 locations. The one in South Philadelphia is the perfect place to make a food-filled afternoon of it. From there, you can easily walk to the Italian Market, one of the oldest outdoor markets in the U.S.
When the weather is nice, market stalls brim with fresh fruits and vegetables. Even on the coldest or hottest days, you can still explore dozens of charming, budget-friendly shops.
Indulge in a variety of cheeses at Di Bruno Brothers, grab a stack of fresh tortillas from Tortillería San Roman, or pick up professional-grade kitchen tools at Fantes, where you can also enjoy a frozen coffee granita to-go.
Channel your inner Rocky and leap over benches like a champion.
During his tour, Solomonov frequently suggests jogging along and randomly jumping into the air, just like Rocky Balboa – the iconic boxer portrayed by Sylvester Stallone in the famous film series.
With so much energy to spare, it’s no surprise that Solomonov probably practices this himself. He’s a regular at one of Philadelphia’s most renowned boxing gyms: Joe Hand’s, located in the Northern Liberties neighborhood.
Trainer Maleek Jackson puts Solomonov through a rigorous workout, blocking his punches and delivering powerful blows to his stomach while Solomonov hangs from high bars.
Jackson began learning the art of training during his 10-year sentence in prison.
‘Whenever I speak to people, I aim to connect with them on a deeper level beyond just the task,’ says Jackson. ‘I tie the lessons I teach in training to life. In life, you’re going to get tired.’
This is where Solomonov allows himself to take a beating and where he pushes back.
For much of his adult life, Solomonov battled drug addiction, including cocaine and heroin.
In 2003, his brother David was tragically shot and killed while serving in the Israeli army, an event that deepened Solomonov's struggles. Though he was building a promising career as a chef, he was living a double life as an addict.
His world was on the brink of collapse until Steve Cook and his then-wife intervened, getting him into rehab. This happened just after Zahav had opened, and both Cook and Solomonov faced their own challenges during that time.
But Solomonov has been sober for nine years, and his restaurant has flourished beyond expectations.
A visit to Zahav offers a taste of the diverse influences that shape Israeli cuisine, including flavors from Palestinian, Yemeni, and Moroccan traditions.
What you’ll also take away from Zahav is a sense of Solomonov’s unwavering determination.
‘I want to showcase the shared richness of cultures,’ he says. ‘I’m making a statement, an homage to my brother, but also representing Israel. My goal is to put Israeli cuisine on the global map.’
‘At the heart of it all, though, I just want people to come in, have a great time, and enjoy some truly fantastic food,’ he adds.
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Evaluation :
5/5