Planning a trip to Jordan? Ditch the Bubble Tent and Choose This Instead.

Search the #luxurycamp hashtag on Instagram, and you're bound to encounter breathtaking visuals: otherworldly tents contrasting with the rugged terrain of a vividly red planet. These glamorous retreats, reminiscent of The Martian, are luxury camps nestled in the Wadi Rum desert, a UNESCO World Heritage site in southern Jordan. Staying at one of these camps has become a must-do for many travelers visiting this compact Middle Eastern gem, where tourism has significantly increased over the last decade.

This year, this country—smaller than Ohio—has welcomed 2.5 million visitors, a figure approaching pre-pandemic levels. (Jordan’s Ministry of Tourism reported over 5 million visitors in 2019.) Much of this influx heads to Wadi Rum, an ancient ocean floor transformed into a desert, with towering granite mountains emerging from the crimson earth.

To combat overtourism and safeguard the desert, the Jordanian government designated a section of Wadi Rum as protected in the 1990s. However, this decision led to increased crowding in the remaining desert areas as interest surged. Fueled partly by the allure of luxury glamping camps showcased on Instagram, bubble tents erected by external investors have proliferated (at one point, they accounted for a quarter of all accommodations in Wadi Rum, and that figure continues to rise). Yet, there's an alternative that not only supports the local community but also respects the desert: a traditional Bedouin camp. Here’s why you should consider staying at one.

Empower the local community

Archaeological evidence shows that humans have inhabited the Wadi Rum desert for at least 12,000 years. The Bedouin tribes residing here today are the descendants of the nomadic herders who historically traversed the Arabian Peninsula and the Levant (which includes modern-day Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Palestine, and Jordan). Now settled in two primary villages, Diceh and Wadi Rum, many Bedouin families rely on tourism for their income, as livestock herding has declined in recent years due to climate-related damage to pastures and a decreasing interest among younger generations.

A traditional family-operated camp embodies the Bedouin way of life, connecting humans closely with their natural surroundings. Bedouin children often assist their parents with herding, gathering dry wood for fires, and setting up tents in the desert. As they mature, Bedouins gain knowledge about the various desert plants and their uses: for instance, they understand that the white saxaul shrub serves as excellent firewood, while another plant called ajram can be used for washing, creating a soapy lather when rubbed together.

These camps feature multiple traditional black and white tents for guests, a central communal area with a fire, and a kitchen where meals are cooked. Operations are managed by relatives and friends who have grown up in the desert, ensuring that money spent here directly benefits the families in the village.

Contribute to desert preservation

Traditional Bedouin tents, which lack hard walls, allow for natural airflow. In contrast, the modified tents at Bedouin camps are structured with a square or rectangular iron frame, insulated with fabric for privacy, and adorned with black and white goat hair on the exterior. While plastic bubble tents often come with air-conditioning, Bedouin tents offer a more authentic desert experience, usually foregoing ACs—though some camps do provide them to compete with bubble camps and meet tourist demands. These tents feature windows to welcome the desert breeze during hot summer days, and guests are provided with multiple blankets for warmth instead of heaters.

Both bubble and Bedouin camps harness solar energy, which is plentiful in the desert. However, bubble camps also depend on fuel generators to power their air-conditioning systems, leading to increased noise and smoke pollution.

Many Bedouin families lack the resources to construct large camps or to market their offerings effectively. In contrast to luxury bubble camps that can host over 100 guests, Bedouin camps typically have a more intimate capacity, accommodating around 20 to 30 visitors at a time.

Ahmad Mara’yeh envisioned his camp, Rum Planet Camp, to stand out from the start. With nearly two decades in the local tourism sector, he organized wild camping experiences and 4x4 jeep tours for guests. When he and his two partners decided to establish their own camp, they aimed high: to create a sustainable desert operation that mirrors the Bedouin lifestyle and could inspire the broader community.

Rum Planet Camp intentionally maintains a cozy atmosphere with just 15 double-occupancy tents. Despite having the budget to equip every tent with air-conditioning and even construct bubble tents—something guests frequently ask for—Mara’yeh and his co-owners Hasan Mara’yeh and Falah Zawaideh choose to remain true to their roots. "Installing ACs would detract from the authentic desert experience and shield guests from the true weather," explains Mara’yeh.

"Bedouins have thrived in this environment for thousands of years without air-conditioning. We prefer natural methods for cooling, like enjoying shade by the mountains while gathering around the fire. That’s the experience we aim to share with our guests," he adds.

Embracing the Bedouin lifestyle

Experiencing a stay at a Bedouin camp in Wadi Rum immerses you in the local culture, offering unique opportunities such as sharing a meal with a Bedouin family or learning about camel care from skilled herders.

Guests engage directly with the residents of Wadi Rum, enjoying activities like stargazing lessons, savoring traditional meals such as zarb, and participating in classic games like sejah, all of which provide valuable insights into Bedouin customs and the realities of desert life.

Bedouin culture thrives on harmonious living with the desert. With a keen understanding of Jordan’s water scarcity challenges, innovative camps like Mara’yeh’s prioritize water conservation, employing methods such as rainwater harvesting and incorporating native plants that require minimal irrigation in their landscaping. His camp also aims to transition from using 4x4 vehicles to relying solely on camels and foot traffic during desert excursions, while replacing plastic bottles with reusable stainless steel ones for guests.

“Bubble camps are prevalent, but it's the Bedouin culture that truly distinguishes Wadi Rum,” states Mara’yeh. “To really understand the Bedouins and our lifestyle, you should stay in a place that reflects this area. Otherwise, what’s the point of coming here?”