Rick Steves: The Everyman of Travel

In the introduction of Rick Steves’s latest book, Italy for Food Lovers, two passages nearly brought me to tears. The first features Steves reflecting on the essence of travel, a passion he has pursued for over forty years. He writes, “Travel broadens our perspective and fosters appreciation for diverse cultures. Instead of fearing our differences, we should celebrate them. Among your most cherished souvenirs will be the threads of various cultures that you weave into your own identity.”

The second poignant moment comes from his co-author, Fred Plotkin, who discusses the concept of being a “pleasure activist.” He explains that this involves engaging our senses, particularly taste, without overanalyzing the experience, allowing us to fully absorb everything around us. He states, “It’s simplistic to claim that fully engaging our senses is the key to happiness. However, any action that enhances our humanity and insightfulness is invaluable. That, in my view, is pleasure activism.”

I was surprised by how deeply a travel guide could resonate with me, particularly one led by a white man of my parents’ generation who identifies as the “everyman” of travel. Yet, Rick Steves has spent the last four decades encouraging Americans through his books, tours, and PBS series that travel is both attainable and essential. These insights clarified why travel—especially culinary travel—holds such significance for me. It transcends mere consumption, whether of food or sightseeing, which capitalism often reduces it to. Instead, it’s about nurturing new instincts through diverse experiences, challenging one’s worldview, and recognizing oneself as part of a magnificent tapestry.

Naturally, it’s also about savoring the finest cheese, pesto, or tortellini in brodo you could ever dream of. There’s a reason Steves’s first food-centric travel guide is set in Italy; it’s a place where one can truly immerse themselves in culinary delights. Spanning over 450 pages, Steves and Plotkin dive into the intricacies of Italian cuisine. The book features quick vocabulary lessons on pasta sauces, details on seasonal produce and wine routes, and a comprehensive guide to regional dishes across Italy, divided into twenty areas. “Flipping through this book can be dangerous,” Steves warns, “because it will leave you hungry and eager to find a way to Italy as soon as possible.”

Over the years, Steves has observed how food has become a key factor for many travelers. He admits that although he was content with his college dorm meals long after graduation, one of travel’s greatest gifts is the chance to broaden one’s culinary horizons. We chatted with Steves about his decision to create a food-centric guide, how travel priorities have shifted, and why a memorable meal can rival a visit to the Sistine Chapel.

Dinogo: It appears that food has become a genuine priority for travelers. Has this influenced how you organize your guides and trips?

Rick Steves: I published my first book in 1980 and have been writing ever since. Back in the day, my most popular book was The Best of Europe, and the top-selling rail pass was the Eurail pass. Nowadays, fewer people purchase The Best of Europe, and instead, travelers are opting for specific rail passes like the France, Britain, or Spain and Portugal passes. As we’ve become more experienced and sophisticated in our travel planning, our focus has sharpened.

Savvy travelers now curate a list of experiences they want to enjoy. I market my tours not by the number of items checked off a bucket list, but by the depth of experiences we facilitate. For many, enjoying great food is a crucial part of the experience. Over the past 40 years, my tour participants have taught me so much about savoring good food and wine while traveling. I may have been slow to catch on, but now I share the enthusiasm wholeheartedly.

Would I travel to a city solely for a specific restaurant? Not really. Fred [Plotkin] would, but when I’m in any Italian town, I recognize that the quality of the restaurant I choose greatly impacts my overall experience. Increasingly, I adopt my everyman approach by making reservations at reputable restaurants because a good one often requires advance booking. I treat it like planning a visit to the Uffizi Gallery or the Vatican Museum. Part of the reason for visiting a city is to enjoy an exceptional meal.

Fifteen years ago, food tours were relatively rare, but now every city offers them, responding to the market's needs. I love paying a hundred bucks to spend four hours exploring artisan shops that serve delightful local dishes, sharing the experience with a few other American tourists. It’s like a moving lunch that’s both educational and entertaining—truly a fantastic experience.

You mention in the introduction that Italy for Food Lovers is a revival of Fred Plotkin’s Italy for the Gourmet Traveler from 1996. Do you recall your first time reading that book?

I interviewed Fred about that book on my radio show, and it sparked my inspiration. I thought, 'This book needs to reach a wider audience.' Both Fred and I share a passion for Italy, and I envisioned merging our insights about exploring Italy through its cuisine, creating a practical guide for travelers who might feel daunted by the language and culture on their first visit. Our aim was to encourage people to celebrate the experience and step outside their comfort zones.

What distinguishes your and Fred’s philosophies regarding food?

For Fred, a key to understanding Italian culture lies at the dinner table. Conversely, I am enthusiastic about experiencing Italian culture through its museums, galleries, architecture, and history. There are many pathways to engage with a culture, and Fred excels at capturing it through the lens of cuisine.

I adore dining in Italy, even though I don't speak the language, and I consider myself an everyman traveler. For years after college, I often returned to the dorm just for a decent meal—it's that simple for me. After spending so much time in Italy, I realize it's essential for travelers to be thoughtful about how they approach Italian cuisine.

I lead a team of a hundred at Rick Steves’ Europe in Seattle, where we specialize in guiding Americans through Europe, taking around 30,000 travelers on 1,200 tours each year. Italy is our most sought-after destination, and my top-selling guidebook is dedicated to it. Fred is an expert in food and wine, while we understand the common frustrations and challenges travelers face, as well as the practical tips that can enhance their experience.

What insights did you gain about Italy and its cuisine through this writing? Has it altered your travel plans for Italy?

I’ve always been enchanted by what I call a delightful harmony of flavors. Fred refers to this as 'abbinamento,' which signifies the art of pairing flavors and textures. That's why even a traveler unfamiliar with the term can appreciate the exquisite combination of cantaloupe wrapped in salty prosciutto.

I often say that a discerning traveler can glance at a menu and instantly know their location and the season based on what’s available. They savor local specialties and enjoy them at the right time of year. This fundamental principle is invaluable for anyone traveling in Italy. Too many Americans fixate on porcini mushrooms, forgetting they won’t find good ones out of season. This is something I’ve emphasized for years, and Fred is well-versed in how this principle applies.

Italians are notoriously passionate about their food and its origins. While researching, did you encounter anyone who disagreed with your interpretations of Italian cuisine?

Across Europe, cultural nuances are fascinating. For instance, if you visit a Belgian bar and request a specific beer, the staff will apologetically inform you if they lack the correct glass. They might say, “I’m sorry, we don’t have the right glass. Would you like that beer in this one instead?” I’d respond, “Come on, just pour it! I want to enjoy my drink.”

Most of our travelers lack the funds, time, or language proficiency that Fred possesses, but we aim to provide practical advice to navigate both pitfalls and opportunities. Rather than focus on the wrong way to enjoy a dish, Fred emphasizes the right way. If you prefer red wine with fish, that’s your choice—there’s no penalty for it. However, Fred would point out that traditionally, Sicilians prepare arancini one way while Neapolitans make their pizza another way. It's delightful to learn these cultural specifics, as I enjoy being a cultural chameleon. Each region has its specialties: Umbria is known for wild boar, Liguria for pesto, and Tuscany for Chianina beef. While other regions might produce good beef too, it’s all part of the rich cultural tapestry.

Are you considering giving a similar focus to the cuisine of another country?

No. Many of my projects hinge on finding the right collaboration partner. I have a tour program in Turkey because I met a remarkable guide there who shares my goal of encouraging Americans to explore beyond familiar destinations like Orlando. For years, I wasn’t particularly enthusiastic about France until I connected with a fellow traveler, Steve Smith, who became my co-author for all things French. While I feel confident navigating Italy due to my deep love and knowledge of it, I wouldn’t have had the courage to write a culinary book about Italy without meeting Fred Plotkin. Our discussions sparked the idea to collaborate and create the ultimate guide for travelers—those who are curious, engaged, and passionate about food.

I absolutely love the term “pleasure activist.”

As an intermediate Dinogo and with Fred as a pleasure activist, we collaborated on Italy for Food Lovers. Would I consider doing something similar for another country? Possibly for France, but I’d need to find the French equivalent of Fred Plotkin. It’s been a joy to integrate his insights into our practical, fun-loving approach to exploring Italy, knowing that readers will enjoy better meals thanks to the hard work Fred, my team, and I put into this book.

During your research in Italy, what’s the best dish you’ve ever had?

When I’m on research trips, it’s like I’m a whirlwind sweeping through town. I need to gather all the information! There’s a crucial time for restaurant visits: to truly understand a place, you need to see it bustling. If you arrive at 7:30, it might be filled with tourists, but by 9:30, the locals will be there, and that’s where the real vibe is.

Just when I think my work is done for the night, I often call back a restaurant that caught my interest earlier and ask, “Can you whip me up a quick dinner? Just serve me whatever you think I should try.” They know I’m researching and want a taste of the best seasonal and local dishes the chef recommends. I sit down, my work feels complete, and I simply enjoy whatever the chef brings. For me, that’s pure joy. Embrace whatever the chef serves, step out of your comfort zone, pair it with some fantastic wine, and create a memory that you’ll cherish forever.