S2, E16: The Creation of a Patagonian National Park

In the 1990s, Kris Tompkins, former CEO of Patagonia, relocated to Chile with her late husband, Doug Tompkins, embarking on a long-term conservation effort in both Chile and Argentina. Despite facing numerous challenges, they remained determined, ultimately establishing over a dozen national parks. This journey is explored in the new documentary Wild Life, now streaming, as well as in this week's episode of Unpacked. Join Kris as she recounts her experiences, from jaguar reintroduction to her lasting passion for South America.

Transcript

Aislyn Greene, host: I’m Aislyn Greene, and this is Unpacked, the podcast that delves into a complex travel topic each week. This episode unpacks a narrative that resembles a love story. The tale centers around three key figures: Kris Tompkins, CEO of Tompkins Conservation, who will be our guest today; her late husband, Doug Tompkins; and Chile, the nation they both cherished for decades, where they committed their lives to establishing a network of national parks.

If these names sound familiar, here's why: Doug was the founder of the North Face outdoor clothing brand, and Kris served as CEO of Patagonia for 20 years. In 1993, they crossed paths, fell in love, and Kris moved to Chile to join Doug, where they dedicated decades to acquiring land across Chile and Argentina with the aim of turning it into national parks. They encountered skepticism and challenges at every turn, and then, in 2015, tragedy struck when Doug lost his life in a kayaking accident, leaving Kris to continue their mission alone.

In the face of her sorrow, she continued to push forward. In 2019, she fulfilled the promise she and Doug made long ago: she transferred over 1 million acres of land to the Chilean government, establishing five new national parks and expanding three others, thus completing the largest private land donation to the public in history.

This journey is the focus of a new documentary titled Wild Life, which begins streaming today, May 25th, on the National Geographic Channel, and on Disney Plus starting tomorrow. The film is both visually stunning and deeply moving, and I highly recommend it. I had a conversation with Kris about the obstacles she and Doug encountered, their commitment to collaborating with local communities, and the remarkable achievements she and her organizations have made since 2019.

Let’s hear her insights.

Aislyn: Hi Kris, thank you so much for joining us today. I truly appreciate your time.

Kris Tompkins: I’m delighted to be here with you.

Aislyn: Let’s start with Wild Life. How did this film come to be?

Kris: The film originated when Jimmy Chin, one of the team members, began visiting shortly after Doug's passing. There was a flurry of activity—government work and field efforts—and he decided to start filming without a clear plan for how it might be used, or if it would be used at all.

As we prepared for the significant donation that took place in Chile and the simultaneous donations happening in Argentina, they approached me about creating a more structured film. Initially, I was hesitant since we're not really public figures. However, I trusted Chai [Vasarhelyi] and Jimmy completely, and I realized this could be a great opportunity to discuss conservation and rewilding efforts. That’s why I agreed to participate.

Aislyn: It seems like a very genuine reflection of all these years. How do you feel about the extent to which your personal life is featured in the film?

Kris: What matters most to me—and I believe Doug would agree—is the significance of our partnerships. We've had countless team members who made all of this possible. When I discuss our work or my own conservation experiences, I always focus on our projects. I never view it as just me or Doug; these endeavors demand extraordinary teamwork and collaboration, which have been crucial in achieving what we have alongside the communities and national governments involved.

Ultimately, this film represents the efforts of countless individuals rather than just Doug and Kris.

Aislyn: That makes perfect sense, and it’s clear throughout the film. Now, reflecting on your personal journey, the film begins with your decision to 'go to work and don’t stop' after Doug’s passing. I’m curious about how these projects served as your guiding light. What influenced that decision?

Kris: To be honest, I don’t think I ever truly had a choice. My personality, sense of duty, and the commitment to all the team members and communities—local, regional, and national—made it inevitable. After watching the film recently, I realized that continuing wasn’t a singular decision; it may have never been a choice at all.

It was always something I had to do; not following through would have meant disappointing hundreds of people.

Aislyn: That’s understandable. You’ve often expressed how deeply Patagonia has resonated with you, almost from the start. Could you share what that initial meeting was like and how your feelings have evolved over the years?

Kris: The first time I explored Patagonia, I was on the Argentine side, near El Chaltén in the south. Although I grew up in the western United States, the vastness of the landscape was breathtaking. While on a bus with fellow travelers, I asked the driver to stop so I could walk the last half-mile to town by myself. Being in those grasslands was an epiphany for me; despite their rough condition—which I would later understand—it felt as profound as my experiences in Tibet, filled with that same compelling vastness.

Aislyn: I visited about five or six years ago, and it's still one of the most incredible places I've ever experienced. Without a doubt. How much time do you spend there nowadays?

Kris: Due to COVID, I returned to the States only when the pandemic began. Jimmy was filming down there when we all split up; the others went to the U.S. while I remained in Chile, as I always have. Eventually, as the situation with the virus became clearer, I made the decision to transition. I don’t think I’ll live there full-time anymore, but I plan to split my year between both countries.

Aislyn: That sounds like a pretty idyllic life in many respects.

Kris: I consider myself very fortunate. Indeed.

Aislyn: You touched on rewilding earlier, but could you elaborate on what you've been working on since the significant donation in 2019? With the establishment of those five parks and the expansion of three others, how has your work evolved since then?

Kris: I'd like to mention that alongside the major donation of the five new national parks and the enlargement of three others, we were also active in Argentina—donating our Iberá National Park just before that. There was a lot happening during that time. However, even prior to those donations in both countries, we were involved in new projects that we simply weren't discussing publicly.

In Chile, we have a substantial initiative underway in the Strait of Magellan. This project combines both marine and terrestrial elements. Together with Rewilding Chile and Rewilding Argentina, we’re working on a project called Patagonia Azul, which I just visited a couple of weeks ago. It's incredible, with a significant focus on marine protection alongside its terrestrial aspects.

Yes, there are numerous large-scale projects in progress. A common thread in both countries is our simultaneous commitment to conserving both land and sea.

In the early years, our focus was primarily on land conservation, rewilding species that had been extirpated, and initiatives like setting up the Ruta de los Parques in Chile—these are all crucial to conservation efforts. Now, however, we are equally dedicated to protecting both land and marine environments.

Aislyn: Let's take a moment to clarify for our listeners who might not be familiar with rewilding. Could you explain what it entails and its significance?

Kris: Absolutely, I'd love to explain because it's a core part of our mission.

Aislyn: Definitely.

Kris: It's crucial. Rewilding isn’t a term we invented; it originates from the conservation biology movement. Essentially, it conveys that simply preserving land isn't sufficient. When key species, particularly keystone species, are absent, we must actively work to reintroduce them.

We often say, perhaps a bit too frequently, but it rings true: “A landscape without wildlife is merely scenery.” Since our inception in Chile, we have focused on species that were either endangered or in fragile populations. This concern for vulnerable species often drives our decision to engage in specific areas.

Aislyn: Understood.

Kris: Over the past 15 years, we have dedicated ourselves to reintroducing species that have been absent from their habitats for as long as 70 to 100 years. This process is incredibly complex and demands a deep commitment. I would never agree to a project with Tompkins Conservation or the two groups in the Southern Cone without a strong commitment upfront—not only to protect the land and sea but also to assess and restore the health of that landscape.

Aislyn: Definitely. The red-winged macaw, was that one of the species you were referring to? It’s quite an intriguing story, right? I believe you mentioned it had been absent for 100 years—

Kris: Yes, technically, they have been missing for 130 years, and it's by far the most challenging rewilding project we’ve ever undertaken.

Aislyn: What makes it so challenging?

Kris: The red-winged macaws are quite rare, so the initial birds we worked with came from zoos or private collections. They lack the basic skills of flying and foraging. Training them is a long process—I could easily spend four days discussing just the red-winged macaw. It’s about teaching a species to do what it was born to do but never had the chance to learn, starting with simple flying.

Aislyn: Amazing.

Kris: How do they defend themselves against predators? What constitutes a predator? We've had to get creative with puppetry and various training methods. Now, we have macaws flying freely and chicks being born in the wild. Each of these stories, whether it’s about the return of the jaguar, the huemul deer, or the macaws, is unique.

Aislyn: That’s truly impressive and showcases such commitment. I can only imagine the challenges you’ve faced during the reintroduction process.

Kris: There have been challenges. The first four macaws we released faced difficulties—some didn’t survive because they weren’t adequately prepared, and we didn’t fully grasp what was needed to bring birds back into the wild in this manner. It’s been a steep learning curve for everyone involved.

Aislyn: Indeed.

Kris: Without a doubt.

Aislyn: Absolutely. What led to the focus on both land and sea? What prompted this shift or expansion?

Kris: Well, our dear friends, Sylvia Earle and Jane Goodall, whom I just met with recently, remind us that although we can't see beneath the water's surface, the marine environment is an incredibly vibrant and intricate ecosystem that is rapidly deteriorating.

Aislyn: I see.

Kris: There needs to be significant regulation within the fishing industry. We also need to recognize our collective responsibility for the oceans, meaning the larger 'we', not just ourselves.

Aislyn: Absolutely. Yes.

Kris: At this point, I no longer separate their significance. In every major project I undertake, integrating land and sea conservation has become the core principle of my conservation vision, closely linked to species rewilding.

Aislyn: And will rewilding extend into the oceans as well?

Kris: I believe so. The ocean is undoubtedly complex, but much like ranching and farming on land, adjusting fishing practices can create a significant impact. By reforming our management strategies, we can rejuvenate the ecosystems of Patagonia and the steppe grasslands. We know there are squid and octopus in the seas; some are easily observable, while others remain hidden beneath the surface.

Aislyn: Yes, definitely. We recently covered a story about Costa Rica's commitment to marine conservation and the political intricacies involved. It's a very complex situation.

Kris: It is quite complex, in many respects. Establishing protected areas on land involves intricate processes and necessitates strong collaboration between government and private sectors, which has always been a cornerstone of our work, especially on the marine front now more than ever.

Aislyn: Reflecting on that community angle, you faced notable opposition in Chile early on. I'm curious about your approach to engaging with the community and demonstrating your commitment to them, as well as the current perspective on conservation.

Kris: Every location presents its own unique circumstances based on how local communities utilize their land and resources. They have been the stewards of these areas for generations. For instance, in the case of the Iberá wetlands in northeastern Argentina, there are 10 communities surrounding this vast 2 million-acre wetland.

Rewilding necessitates a close partnership not just with the species—like jaguars, for instance—but also with local stakeholders. When attempting to reintroduce a top predator, it’s not simply a matter of decision-making. The nation, the province, and the communities around Iberá must be not only supportive but actively involved in the process.

Currently, we have between 14 and 20 jaguars successfully breeding in the wild, nurturing cubs thanks to the collaborative efforts with local communities, provinces, and national governments from the outset. These territories belong to them, and we gain invaluable insights by engaging with these local experts, whom we affectionately refer to as the 'geniuses of the place.' Most land parks are established with the input of local and regional teams right from the beginning.

Aislyn: I understand.

Kris: It’s truly a partnership. Year after year, we work together to develop strategies that enhance tourism in both nations. In Chile, we launched the Ruta de los Parques, a 2,500-mile-long route encompassing 18 national parks.

Aislyn: That’s impressive.

Kris: We recognize that simply establishing and donating a national park isn’t the end of the journey. Ongoing involvement is crucial, and local communities must play a key role in shaping any project. Their capacity to generate economic benefits for local areas is vital for the sustainability of these parks.

Aislyn: What were some specific concerns of the community regarding Iberá and the jaguars?

Kris: It's quite amusing because we spent three to four years preparing before we even dared to mention the word 'jaguar.' No one had ever set up a breeding center for jaguars before, let alone release the offspring into the wild. Naturally, there was a lot of skepticism since this was the first initiative of its kind globally. However, we were ready to engage with all the communities in Corrientes, dedicating hundreds, even thousands, of hours to education and discussions. Interestingly, the jaguar has been their spirit animal for centuries, which we hadn't anticipated.

Aislyn: That’s intriguing.

Kris: Ultimately, what we expected to be cautious was quite the opposite: the community was eager for us to accelerate the process, wanting to see jaguars roaming freely in the wild sooner.

Aislyn: That’s wonderful to hear.

Kris: The red-winged macaws serve as another excellent illustration of our efforts in Iberá. When we reached a point where we believed we could release a significant number of them with a strong likelihood of survival, the teams from Rewilding Argentina began engaging with local and regional radio stations to inform residents. They encouraged people to call a specific number if they spotted a macaw flying by, as we aimed to track them. The response was incredible. People started—

Aislyn: Oh, really?

Kris: —keeping detailed records, noting the time of sightings: 'It was 11:02 in my backyard. I saw one, and here are the features around its beak...' These birds are part of the community’s identity, flying within their territory, which is now recognized as both a provincial and national park. If anyone were to harm a red-winged macaw, there would be countless community members ready to hold them accountable.

Aislyn: Oh, I love that.

Kris: The same applies to the giant anteater. In every area we work, we eventually need to take a step back. It will be the communities surrounding Patagonia National Park in Chile, like Chaltén, the town adjacent to Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park.

These are the individuals who have cultivated a genuine sense of ownership and responsibility for these parks and the wildlife within them. It’s truly uplifting. This experience has profoundly transformed my life.

Aislyn: That is incredible. And I suppose that's your goal, right? They will ultimately serve as the guardians of this place. To have that level of commitment—

Kris: Absolutely.

Aislyn: —that kind of total investment is truly remarkable.

Kris: I always believe they were here long before we came, and they will remain long after we leave. Our role in Chile and Argentina is to return all the land to the state, and we strive to support that mission in every way possible.

Aislyn: Yeah. I'm curious about how Rewilding Argentina and Rewilding Chile originated and how they’re linked to Tompkins Conservation.

Kris: Well, I came from a business background and retired at the peak of my career with Patagonia. I really grasped the significance of having a succession plan.

When Doug passed away unexpectedly, I found myself in our living room by the Iberá wetlands about a month and a half later. I told Sophia, who had been leading Argentina with us, 'You need to become independent. It’s essential. I’ll give you five years to create a plan because if anything happens to me, I want our legacy to extend beyond the first 30 years, which I’m incredibly proud of, but it has to focus on what happens from now on.'

If I were to pass away, I want them to have the financial support we provided for another five years. I want to ensure my contacts and everything I’ve built continue to help fundraise. I still collaborate with them on strategies, but I strongly emphasized that Tompkins Conservation Argentina should evolve into Rewilding Argentina, although they chose their own name.

Aislyn: Yeah.

Kris: It's crucial for both countries to achieve independence. What matters most to me is nurturing the next generations of leaders. At 72, I’m not sure how much longer I’ll be around, but we haven't fulfilled our mission if those we trust completely and have collaborated with for nearly 30 years can't continue independently, no matter what happens to me. That’s the purpose behind our efforts.

Aislyn: Very wise. So, you don’t really participate in the daily operations of either organization?

Kris: No. I serve as the chairman of the board for Rewilding Chile and act as an advisory counselor, or the 'grandmother' figure in Argentina. I enjoy strategic planning—not just on paper, but really diving into discussions like, 'Should we be involved or not?' I take great pride in their work.

We also have the Tompkins Conservation team here in the United States, and I’m equally proud of all three teams. They’re all functioning exceptionally well, and I’m truly thankful for that.

Aislyn: That’s great. Why do you believe tourism is so vital for these parks?

Kris: Growing up, we were immersed in the U.S. National Park system, having visited countless parks. Our goal was always to encourage people to explore the parks we donated. We intentionally avoided keeping them privately owned because 85 percent of our motivation was to return these lands to public ownership, allowing everyone to enjoy them. I truly believe that you can't love and protect something you haven't experienced.

I often use this analogy: if I own a Picasso in my living room, only my friends and family see it. But if I donate that Picasso to a museum, millions can appreciate it each year, enriching their understanding of beauty and art.

For us, it was vital that these parks remain open to everyone, allowing them to hike, even on those miserable, rainy, cold days. Those are the moments we truly cherish, don't you think?

Aislyn: Absolutely. Yes.

Kris: Those experiences are what we fall in love with, and if we could offer any gift, that would be it.

We've implemented numerous programs to introduce young kids to the park, encouraging them to go backpacking with binoculars in hand. This helps the new generations reconnect with the understanding that we are part of a vast whole, not the center of it.

Aislyn: Can you share a few examples of the kinds of experiences people might enjoy?

Kris: Certainly! In Iberá, you can join local landowners, the true experts of the wetlands, for exploration. Whether on horseback or in dugout canoes pulled by horses, these experiences are unique. You can also visit their homes for an authentic Corrientes meal cooked over an open flame. There are various accommodation options across the ten communities, and in the Chaco, you can kayak down the Bermejo River.

As you navigate the Chaco, you'll encounter tapirs and an array of wildlife in this crucial ecosystem that currently lacks protection. In Chile, activities abound—horseback riding, hiking, camping, and enjoying an asado at an estancia. The coastal area offers hiking opportunities, and for the adventurous, swimming near penguin rookeries, whales, dolphins, and sea lions. Each region presents its own cultural experiences and plenty of activities.

Aislyn: Reflecting on the film, what do you hope it inspires in viewers?

Kris: My aspiration for Wild Life is that it encourages people to take action. It doesn’t have to be a dramatic shift like ours; rather, I want to show that anyone, at any age, can make a change in their life without needing a fortune. While having resources can help, I hope viewers understand that we cannot simply leave our future to chance because we feel uncertain about our next steps.

No matter their background, financial status, or education level, anyone can work towards a better future. Every town, city, state, province, and country offers numerous pathways to get involved.

You might start by counting butterflies in your local area, or perhaps pool resources to purchase a small piece of land. What matters most is the commitment to join the millions of people envisioning a healthier, dignified, and rational world. I genuinely mean that.

I realize that this may sound like a simple platitude, but it truly isn’t. I hope audiences grasp the significance of community, particularly the connection between humans and the natural world. This is a language we all need to learn to communicate.

Aislyn: Absolutely. On a broader scale, what are your hopes for Patagonia and the Southern Cone region?

Kris: I see many positive developments in the Patagonia region of the Southern Cone, both in Argentina and Chile. Numerous ranchers are adopting new grazing practices and utilizing Great Pyrenees or other breeds of dogs to safeguard their flocks from predators, rather than resorting to poisoning. Patagonia has welcomed tourists for quite some time, but I’m particularly excited about lesser-known areas in southern Chile, which are truly spectacular and like a hidden treasure. There are beautiful places to camp, small hosterias, and lovely explorer lodges.

It feels quite open in that regard. I hope that anyone visiting Patagonia falls in love with the area and feels a sense of responsibility to leave something beneficial behind—be it financial support or otherwise. What truly matters is our duty to care for the places we cherish and to contribute to their well-being.

Aislyn: Thank you so much, Kris, for your time and for all the incredible work you continue to do. It’s truly remarkable.

Kris: Thank you for having us.

Aislyn: Thank you, Kris, for your time, your efforts, and your inspiration. That concludes this week’s discussion. We’ll provide a link to the documentary available on the National Geographic Channel and DisneyPlus, as well as to your organization, Tompkins Conservation, at tompkinsconservation.org. We’ll also include links to the now independent organizations managing conservation in the parks, Rewilding Argentina and Rewilding Chile. We’ve extensively covered all the Chilean and Argentinian parks, so resources for travelers will also be included. You can follow Kris on Instagram @Kristine_Tompkins.