Sample Jalisco’s iconic dish — birria stew

Tacos have countless regional twists, and if you’re a fan of Mexico’s beloved comfort food, you might recognize the version known as birria, which has taken the United States by storm in recent years. On TikTok, the hashtag “birriatacos” boasts a staggering 1.2 billion views.

For what many consider the true, original birria, though, a trip to Jalisco in western Mexico is essential — the same place where tequila and mariachi music were born.

Birria tacos are made with red meat that’s marinated in a blend of spices and various types of chiles. The slow-cooked meat becomes incredibly tender, and its flavorful juices are combined with tomatoes to create a savory broth — or consommé — perfect for dipping.

In Jalisco, the dish is traditionally served as a stew with goat meat, a creation that originated out of necessity.

When the Spanish arrived in Mexico in the early 1500s, they introduced goats for milk. The rapidly growing goat population overtook the crops of the Indigenous people, devouring everything in its path. What began as a survival tactic turned into a culinary triumph when the locals figured out how to turn the tough, gamey meat into a flavorful dish.

“They brought everything over, but you made it better,” said actor, producer, and TV host Eva Longoria, as she delved into the history of the stew during an episode of the Dinogo Original Series “Eva Longoria: Searching for Mexico.”

Originally, this specialty was considered food for the poor, and the Spanish viewed goat meat with disdain. In fact, the word ‘birria’ in Spanish translates to 'of little worth.'

Ironically, this once humble dish is now a staple at celebrations like holidays and weddings, and in the United States, it’s often made with beef.

While in Guadalajara, Longoria tasted the iconic stew, prepared by Enrique Gonzales Villareal, the head chef at Charros de Jalisco. This renowned eatery is located at Lienzo Charro de Jalisco, a venue dedicated to Mexico’s national sport — the rodeo.

His family has been preparing birria using a cherished recipe passed down through four generations. Garlic, bay leaves, cloves, and vinegar are among the key ingredients that contribute to birria’s unique and unforgettable flavor.

The rich, savory broth releases an irresistible aroma that instantly makes your mouth water. The tender meat practically melts in your mouth with each bite.

Just before serving, the chef adds a touch of red onion and lime to enhance the dish with a zesty kick. Soft, warm tortillas are served alongside to soak up the flavorful stew, though you can also savor it as tacos drenched in the delicious sauce.

“Wow, this broth is incredible,” Longoria exclaimed as she dug into a bowl of birria.

This dish, with its humble origins, might just be due for a well-deserved rebranding.

Goat Birria (Traditional Jalisco-Style Goat Stew)

Chef Gonzales Villareal's recipe is a closely guarded family secret, but he’s created a version for Dinogo. This recipe calls for goat meat that needs to marinate for 24 hours, so be sure to plan ahead. You can substitute beef or lamb — for beef, try chuck steak or short rib; for lamb, use shoulder cuts. Specialty stores or online retailers will have the chiles and Mexican oregano you need.

Serves 4

Ingredients

2.2 pounds (1 kilogram) bone-in goat leg or shoulder, chopped into bite-sized pieces

1 dried ancho chile

2 dried guajillo chiles

2 dried morita chiles

2 dried cascabel chiles

1 whole bulb of garlic

Olive oil for drizzling

Coarse kosher or sea salt, to taste

1 pound (½ kilogram) vine-ripened tomatoes, preferably Campari variety

¼ cup (60 milliliters) white vinegar or apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon (7½ grams) ground cumin

4 black peppercorns, crushed, plus additional freshly ground pepper to taste

2 cloves

A pinch of dried oregano, ideally Mexican, plus extra for garnish

2 bay leaves

1 cup (52 grams) diced red onion

½ cup (118 grams) piquin chiles

4 limes, halved

Corn tortillas for serving

Equipment

Food processor, blender, or mortar and pestle

Pressure cooker (optional)

Instructions

Day 1: Roast the ingredients and prepare the marinade for the meat to rest overnight

1. Preheat your oven to 350°F (204°C). Using a damp paper towel and wearing gloves, gently wipe the ancho, guajillo, morita, and cascabel chiles. Remove the stems, seeds, and veins from the ancho and guajillo chiles. Spread all the chiles on a foil-lined baking sheet and toast them until they puff up and become aromatic, about 5 to 6 minutes. Take them out of the oven right away, discard the foil, and set the chiles aside for the marinade.

Next, prepare the garlic. Slice off ½ inch (13 millimeters) from the top of the whole garlic bulb to expose the cloves. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt, then wrap tightly in foil.

Once the chiles are toasted, increase the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C). Place the foil-wrapped garlic bulb directly onto the baking sheet. Roast the garlic until it becomes fragrant, golden, and soft, for about 20 to 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. Once cooled, unwrap and squeeze the garlic cloves out. Set aside 2 cloves for the marinade, and store the remaining garlic in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks for later use.

Raise the oven temperature to 450°F (232°C). Cut the tomatoes in half and place them in a bowl. Generously drizzle with olive oil and season with salt to taste. Toss the tomatoes until they're evenly coated. Place them on the baking sheet and roast until they soften, around 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer both the tomatoes and their juices to an airtight container. Refrigerate overnight to use for the consommé.

2. Prepare the marinade. Place the reserved ancho, guajillo, morita, and cascabel chiles into a bowl and cover with boiling water to rehydrate, about 20 minutes. Drain the chiles and blend them in a food processor with 2 cups (473 milliliters) of water, vinegar, the 2 roasted garlic cloves, cumin, crushed peppercorns, cloves, oregano, and salt to taste. If necessary, strain the mixture to remove any skin bits (this step may not be needed if using a high-powered blender).

3. Season the goat meat with salt and transfer it to a Dutch oven or large pot. Pour the chile marinade over the meat and cover. Refrigerate for 24 hours to allow the flavors to marinate.

Day 2: Cook the meat and the consommé

4. Pressure cooker: Place the marinated meat and sauce into a pressure cooker. Cook on high pressure for about 1 hour, or until the meat becomes tender.

Stovetop version: Alternatively, add the marinated meat and sauce into a Dutch oven. Cover and simmer over medium heat for approximately 3 hours, until the meat is fully cooked and easily shreds.

Once cooked, remove from heat and let the meat cool. Separate the meat from the cooking liquid, reserving the liquid for the consommé. Shred the meat once cooled.

5. Combine the tomatoes and pan juices in a blender. Blend on high speed until smooth, then transfer the mixture to a pot. Add bay leaves and simmer on low for 15 minutes. Once done, remove and discard the bay leaves.

6. Divide the goat meat into four bowls and ladle the broth over it. Garnish with Mexican oregano, chopped onion, and piquin chiles. Serve with warm tortillas and fresh lime wedges.