Saudi Arabia's Major Investment in Tourism: What Is Life Like for Locals?

Growing up in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, during the 1980s was a unique blend of experiences: roller discos, pool parties, road trips to the Great Mosque in Makkah (Mecca), Brownies meetings, spelling competitions, and late-night shopping at ancient souks. Life inside my family’s expat compound—a large, gated community with well-kept lawns—felt like a bubble; it could have been a quaint town in Ontario, Canada, where I was born. Beyond the gates, however, certain realities were unavoidable: my mother didn’t drive, restaurants had gender-segregated seating, and with cinemas banned,¹ trips to movie theaters were only possible during visits to the States or India.

The Jeddah of my childhood is a distant memory, as the expansive Vision 2030² initiative introduces sweeping reforms across the Saudi economy, infrastructure, and society, radically altering the long-standing norms of the kingdom. Gender separation in businesses is no longer mandatory; the film and music industries are thriving; and women can now drive, possess their own passports, and travel within the country without a male guardian.³ Since 2019, the once-powerful Saudi religious police, tasked with enforcing Islamic law in public spaces, have seen their authority significantly diminished.

A central aspect of the Vision 2030 strategy is the push to boost tourism by revitalizing overlooked heritage sites, creating futuristic cities in the desert, and making the kingdom accessible to international visitors for the first time. It's surreal to see Saudi Arabia promoted on flashy billboards from Dubai to New York, but during my recent visits back to the kingdom, I’ve been more impressed not by the extravagant new attractions—star-studded concerts,⁴ film festivals, and stunning architectural wonders—but by how this social transformation is reshaping everyday life.

In the past year, I’ve engaged women tour guides and spoken with female fashion designers. A woman in a niqab⁵ welcomed me back to Jeddah by stamping my passport, and friends shared stories of being driven home by women Uber drivers. While there’s more progress to achieve,⁶ it’s evident that women are now more active in public life than I ever saw in my childhood.

Few have captured the nation’s transformation as thoughtfully as photographer Tasneem Alsultan. From riding alongside women motorcycle enthusiasts in Riyadh to documenting the everyday joys of Saudi families, Tasneem skillfully freezes the rapid pace of change into reflective moments. Our paths in the kingdom have been different: I was a Canadian raised in Jeddah, while Tasneem grew up in the United States and England before returning to Saudi Arabia as a young adult. We discussed our experiences within Saudi Arabia’s forward-looking landscape⁷ and her unique perspective on documenting it.

Sarah Khan: I’m interested—how did you get into photography?

Tasneem Alsultan: I always enjoyed photography, but I never imagined it would become my career. When I attended King Abdulaziz University⁸ in 2002, graphic design wasn’t even offered—only home management! I have a bachelor's in English literature and linguistics, and a master's in social anthropology and social linguistics from Portland State [in Oregon].

Upon returning to Saudi Arabia in 2008, I struggled to find a job. My mom advised, “You have a camera: take photos of what you see to keep yourself occupied.” So I did. My Facebook following grew quickly, and when I secured a position at a university in Bahrain, I set up a studio. Later, I relocated to Dubai for teaching, but photography consumed most of my time. I realized I was far more passionate about photography than lecturing, so I left teaching behind and haven’t looked back since.

Sarah: The creative landscape has evolved tremendously since your journey began. In just the last five years, it feels like a different country each time I visit. Yet what's intriguing is that Jeddah's appearance remains largely unchanged; it's the overall vibe that feels revitalized.

Tasneem: Absolutely. While Jeddah's visual transformation is gradual, the mindset varies based on individual perspectives. The government's⁹ efforts to instigate change are so rapid that, in the next five years, many will likely accept this as the new norm. The younger generation¹⁰ is more empowered to demand additional concerts and outdoor spaces, and we want to wear what makes us comfortable. These shifts have positively influenced my daughters, aged 17 and 15, unlike my generation, which was taught to keep opinions to ourselves and not challenge societal expectations.

Sarah: When capturing social change through your lens, what do you look for? What catches your attention?

Tasneem: I aim to document moments that are ordinary yet significant. Change may seem superficial through architecture or events, but I focus on capturing genuine emotions—when people are joyful or surprised. I like to provide insights into Saudi Arabia, such as the first instance of women entering a cinema, happily eating popcorn, or a woman driving a car with a McDonald's¹¹ in the backdrop.

Sarah: Back in 2017, while in Makkah¹², I spoke with a woman who remarked, “We all drive abroad. But Saudi drivers are wild, so I don’t mind not being behind the wheel.” It seemed like a bit of a justification. Almost five years have passed since the ban¹³ was lifted. What is the experience like today?

Tasneem: I was among those women who were hesitant to drive in Saudi due to concerns about the roads, drivers, and vehicles—I rationalized it, as you mentioned. Now that I’ve experienced driving, I can hardly recall a time when women weren’t allowed to drive. It felt like such a monumental issue. The emotional impact was profound, as it made you feel undeserving of controlling your own life. It's crucial for women to have equal rights because societal norms often govern us more than laws or religions do.

Sarah: A common saying about countries is, “The locals are so friendly.” Now that the kingdom is welcoming tourists, do you believe Saudis are eager to showcase their country to visitors?

Tasneem: Saudis are genuinely curious about international guests, often thinking, “Wow, you chose to visit Saudi, of all places? What drew you here?” There’s a sense of excitement. As a society, we have so much to share with the world, but access has been limited. In Western media, we've often been portrayed as either victims—particularly women—or villains, especially men. I’m thrilled to engage in this conversation and dialogue, even visually, as it feels more genuine. My work remains untouched, and it’s crucial for the world to witness our everyday lives.

Sarah: Do you think the Saudi Arabia that’s being presented to international tourists truly reflects your experiences as a Saudi?

Tasneem: They have all these catchy phrases—Umluj is dubbed “the Maldives of Arabia.” It may sound like a cliché, but once you experience it, you think, OK. It’s true. The water is crystal clear and stunningly natural. There’s hardly anyone around. We possess so many untouched, beautiful natural landscapes.

Sarah: The first time I visited AlUla¹⁵, it felt like everywhere I turned, there were people in thobes and abayas.¹⁶ It seems locals are really embracing the chance to explore their own country in a way they hadn’t before.

Tasneem: We Saudis had never even heard of AlUla prior to this; we didn’t know we could access it. Suddenly, it became a local tourist hotspot. During the COVID-19 lockdown, for a year and a half, we couldn’t leave the country. So I explored Umluj, Abha, and Tabuk. Places I hadn’t been interested in before are now ones I’m urging my family and friends to visit.

Sarah: My grandfather served as India’s ambassador to Saudi Arabia, and my grandparents visited AlUla in the 1980s; he must have had some diplomatic access. Now that Saudi Arabia is welcoming international travelers, what advice would you give to those finally able to visit?

Tasneem: It’s an expansive country—over three times the size of France. The beaches in Jeddah and along the west coast are stunning: Visit Umluj and book a caravan for a few days. The diving is out of this world, and the Red Sea is spectacular. Try to reach out to someone before you arrive. Saudis are incredibly hospitable. Once you connect with one person, they’ll invite you to their home.¹⁷ You build friendships, and that’s just how it goes.