Sharjah: One of the Most Thrilling—and Underappreciated—Cities in the UAE

Since moving to the United Arab Emirates seven years ago, I have grown to love Sharjah. While it may not boast the superlatives of Dubai or the grand palaces of Abu Dhabi, this understated emirate is home to some of the region’s most captivating cultural institutions. Notably, 2023 is set to be a significant year for Sharjah, with major events highlighting its two greatest attractions: art and architecture.

The 15th Sharjah Biennial, running from February to June, showcases the work of over 150 artists from more than 70 countries. This year’s program includes thirty newly commissioned pieces, featuring works by Moroccan photographer Hassan Hajjaj and British Palestinian multimedia artist Mona Hatoum. The theme, “Thinking Historically in the Present,” will be explored across 16 venues, each as captivating as the artwork itself—from traditional coral-stone houses to the Sharjah Art Foundation’s recently acquired UFO-shaped Flying Saucer building, which once housed a French patisserie and a fast-food chicken shop.

In November, the Sharjah Architecture Triennial (SAT) makes its return, curated by Nigerian architect Tosin Oshinowo. This event is part of a continuous series of workshops, talks, and guided tours dedicated to architecture. Launched in 2022, SAT’s tours explore the emirate’s lesser-known neighborhoods, uncovering their histories and showcasing projects like a modernist bus station.

Beyond its festivals, Sharjah offers rich rewards for travelers willing to delve deeper. In the Souq Al Shanasiyah, trendy coffeehouses coexist with shops selling perfumes and traditional attire. Families frequent Souq Al Bahar, a vibrant bazaar encircled by centuries-old homes adorned with wind towers—an ingenious early air-conditioning system that draws in refreshing sea breezes. Visitors can rummage through eclectic antiques at Souq Al Arsa, where long-stemmed Arabian brass coffee pots fill the shelves and semiprecious stones dangle from the rafters. The market's historic Al Arsa Café, with its 60-year legacy, is a cozy spot for a cold drink and flavorful biryani.

The Al Mahatta Museum is located on the site of the UAE’s first airport. Established in 1932, Al Mahatta served as the Emirates’ aviation hub long before the construction of Dubai’s airport. Now surrounded by modern high-rises, the museum is anchored by the original control tower. Inside, guests can explore vintage aircraft—including some you can step inside—and view nostalgic photographs from the airport’s golden era.

Nestled just outside Souq Al Bahar, behind soft yellow walls, lies one of Sharjah’s most charming hotels, the 53-room Chedi Al Bait. This collection of restored heritage buildings, once home to the pearl-trading Al Midfa family, has transformed into a serene retreat featuring courtyards, shady trees, water features, and intricately carved wooden doors. Two more houses are being restored to open in early 2023, adding private swimming pools and a total of 12 new rooms—another compelling reason to explore Sharjah’s tranquil alleyways.

Essential Tips for Planning Your Trip

• How to reach there: A taxi ride from Dubai International Airport to Sharjah’s heritage district takes approximately 20 minutes.
• Ideal time to visit: Summers can be extremely hot. Aim for visits between November and April for milder temperatures.
• Must-try dish: The breakfast platter at the Arabian Tea House features eggs, olives, rose jam, za’atar, labneh, Halloumi, fresh cream, honey, and tandoor bread.
• Recommended reading: Building Sharjah (Birkhäuser, 2021), edited by Sultan Sooud Al Qassemi and Todd Reisz, showcases archival photography and narratives about the emirate’s growth.