Smørrebrød: Denmark’s Timeless Classic Pre-Noma

CenturiesCenturies before René Redzepi’s Noma redefined Danish cuisine, smørrebrød was already a staple. This open-faced sandwich, made with hearty Danish rugbrød (rye bread) and adorned with ingredients like pickled herring, shrimp-topped boiled eggs, or roast beef with crispy onions and horseradish, has been a beloved part of Danish life for generations. Despite its long history, it was once overlooked by gourmet chefs.

However, as the new Nordic cuisine movement has prompted a fresh look at Denmark’s traditional ingredients and methods, a new wave of chefs has breathed new life into smørrebrød. They experiment with oyster-infused mayonnaise, house-baked rye bread, and unexpected toppings like pumpkin, hazelnuts, and blue cheese. Recently, Copenhagen’s Selma, with its inventive smørrebrød by chef Magnus Petersen, earned a Bib Gourmand Award from the Michelin Guide.

In elevating this traditional dish, these chefs are rediscovering the reasons behind smørrebrød’s enduring popularity and its essential role in Danish culinary heritage.

Smørrebrød, originating from the Middle Ages, became a lunch staple for farmers and factory workers by the 19th century. By the mid-20th century, it was a common family meal, ideal for using leftovers or quick meals with frozen ingredients. In public, it was often served in specialized pubs, where it complemented beer, wine, and snaps (a local spirit akin to German schnapps).

In 2000, Mette Borum established Told & Snaps, a traditional smørrebrød pub in Nyhavn, before the new Nordic cuisine trend hit Copenhagen. The pub is frequented by diplomats, business people, and officials enjoying snaps under portraits of Danish royalty.

“Smørrebrød was a staple in my childhood,” says Borum. “My grandmother would serve slices of rye bread with pickled beets and leftover roast, and we’d make our own sandwiches. I wanted to recreate that experience but with top-quality ingredients.” Although Borum’s establishment represents Copenhagen’s traditional side, its focus on premium ingredients and precise preparation marked a shift, foreshadowing the sandwich’s modern evolution.

While working in French and Italian kitchens and managing a busy schedule in Copenhagen, TV chef Adam Aamann found it challenging to entertain friends. This led him to experiment with creative smørrebrød variations for lunch. In 2006, he transformed his side project into a full restaurant, Aamanns Deli, offering a dynamic range of gourmet sandwiches. He later expanded with Aamanns 1921 in 2017.

Rather than relying on heavy meats or mayo, Aamann focused on incorporating fresh, pickled, and fermented vegetables into his smørrebrød, reducing the use of unhealthy spreads. While traditional smørrebrød featured ingredients like potato and tomato, Aamann introduced innovative toppings such as cauliflower, pumpkin, and grilled cucumber. Even his protein-centric sandwiches received a fresh twist, with options like marinated herring paired with balsamic vinegar, plums, raw onions, and crème fraîche, or beef tartare topped with hazelnuts, rye crumbs, pickled onions, and blackcurrants.

Dining at Aamanns 1921 today offers a snapshot of Copenhagen's smørrebrød scene. One afternoon, while locals enjoyed their meals quietly, a group of sun-kissed tourists burst in, exclaiming, “We came straight from the airport!” The waitress patiently walked them through the smørrebrød basics, guiding them on how to enjoy the dishes, how much to order, and the best ways to pair with snaps, beer, and wine.

Following the path set by Aamanns Deli and Told & Snaps, several other Copenhagen Mytouries are now showcasing their own smørrebrød creations. At Kompasset, you can enjoy a crispy monkfish sandwich with mango mayo and espelette peppers. Selma serves a kale sandwich with lemon, chicken skin, and a poached egg, while Hallernes offers a crab salad on rugbrød, complemented by avocado, lemon, dill, and mayo.

What was once a simple, practical meal has evolved into a refined expression of modern Danish dining. As Petersen from Selma notes, “Smørrebrød showcases the finest aspects of Danish gastronomy, particularly its focus on seasonality, sustainability, and sometimes, fermentation.” Seasonal variations are now common: fresh chanterelles appear at Kompasset in summer, truffles grace Selma’s menu in fall, pickled summer tomatoes at Aamanns 1921, and in winter, Hallernes features cod roe with dill mayo and herbs. Spring brings new Danish potatoes at Selma, paired with chives, crispy pig ears, almonds, and dried lovage.

While chefs like Claus Meyer and René Redzepi often frame new Nordic cuisine in the context of global trends, smørrebrød has served as a link between the old and the new, uniting cutting-edge and traditional chefs. “René Redzepi frequents here often, engaging in deep food discussions, yet he always orders the curried pickled herring with snaps — classic choices,” Borum notes. “There’s a mutual respect between the traditional and the contemporary.”

Molly Hannon is a writer who splits her time between Copenhagen, Denmark, and Charlottesville, Virginia.