Sometimes, Cruises Venture to West Africa. Here’s What You Can Anticipate When They Do.

In the hidden Bissagos archipelago, located off the lesser-explored Guinea-Bissau, the standout wildlife is the saltwater hippo. While trekking approximately six miles along sandy and dirt trails, some of which were flanked by grasses taller than I am, I almost stumbled upon a crocodile concealed in the foliage.

Though it was surprising at the time, I embarked on a new four-country cruise with HX Expeditions (formerly Hurtigruten Expeditions) in West Africa, aimed at adventurous travelers. My focus wasn't solely on wildlife but also on the chance to explore remote villages in the Bissagos, where communities live in profound harmony with nature.

Some land-based travelers might roll their eyes at the term 'cruise,' picturing tourists lounging in hot tubs with rum cocktails in hand. However, HX adopted an expedition-cruise style for this 13-night journey, making it quite difficult to visit Senegal, the Republic of Cabo Verde (Cape Verde), the Bissagos Islands, and Gambia through any other means. During my time aboard the 150-passenger MS Spitsbergen earlier this year, I did treat myself to drinks like the Coco Loco—a delightful mix of rum and coconut milk served in a coconut—alongside the hot tubs, yet there was a palpable sense of adventure as well.

The 108 travelers on board varied in age from their twenties to octogenarians, representing countries like the United States, Canada, Australia, and Germany (with translations provided for the German group). I was accompanied by my 23-year-old niece, Sasha. Eight members of the expedition team—scientists and other experts more experienced in Arctic and Antarctic voyages than in West Africa—arranged activities like water landings using Zodiac boats in the Bissagos. For these outings, we had to wade through shallow waters to reach the shore, donning scuba water shoes to protect our ankles in case any baby stingrays were nearby (they weren’t).

The journey began with a night at a hotel in Dakar, Senegal’s capital, followed by a ferry trip to Gorée Island, once the largest slave-trading post on the African coast. (With optional excursions, we had the chance to visit three sites linked to the slave trade on this trip—the other two located on Santiago Island in Cape Verde and in Gambia. Unfortunately, the significance of these sites required much more time and detailed explanations than we were afforded.)

After leaving Senegal, we sailed approximately 400 miles west to Cape Verde, which achieved independence from Portugal in 1975. Although Cape Verde is far from undiscovered, it remains less frequented by tourists—flights are available, but destinations like the Canary Islands with their upscale resorts tend to attract more visitors. With its relaxed atmosphere and breathtaking mountains, lush valleys, and stunning coastal views, Cape Verde reminded me of the Caribbean from the 1970s.

During our three days in Cape Verde, we explored three islands, choosing between complimentary city tours and scenic drives or optional paid excursions with added activities like hiking with local guides. A highlight was on Fogo, where we ventured into the six-by-four-mile crater, home to a community living in a stark black-rock landscape that feels otherworldly, near a volcano that last erupted in 2014.

Next, we headed to the Bissagos for four days, followed by a day in Gambia, before returning to Dakar.

The allure and intricacy of the remote Bissagos

The Bissagos islands were created from the ancient delta of two rivers and experience significant fluctuations in wind and tides. During the dry season, at times, we found ourselves with less than 33 feet of water beneath the ship, prompting the captain to depend on sonar for safe navigation. The archipelago consists of 88 islands (with only a quarter inhabited), covering about 5,000 square miles, situated around 35 miles from mainland Guinea-Bissau. While you can reach the Bissagos by small wooden boats, very few do—visitor numbers are in the hundreds rather than the thousands.

The archipelago is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, celebrated for its mangroves, savannas, palm groves, and tropical forests. In addition to the hippos and crocodiles, green turtles come here to nest, and migratory birds like flamingos stop by.

As we arrived for our four-day stay, our cultural interpreter, Sonia Marques-Durris, joined the ship with her husband Laurent, their toddler, and their nanny. Laurent, a renowned French fisherman, has lived in the Bissagos for 27 years, while Sonia has been there for 13. They purchased Kere Island from locals, where they operate a six-room eco-friendly fishing hotel. In their efforts to integrate into the community, they were initiated into a village through various rituals and ceremonies.

Sonia is one of a select few trained guides in the area. During onboard lectures, she endeavored to clarify the complexities of the culture, where women hold significant roles in civic life and rituals. The Bissajans believe their islands are inhabited by spirits, and souls cannot transition to the afterlife without assistance from the living, with women possessing the ability to become possessed.

Some narratives suggest that the society is matriarchal. Sonia challenged this notion, and on Kere Island, I spoke with Juliette Gomes, 33, a single mother of two who was washing hotel linens by hand. When I inquired through an interpreter if women govern the society, she laughed dismissively. “Men are in charge,” she asserted.

The highlight of the cruise for me was the third day, when we visited two villages and engaged with the locals. The inhabitants of the Bissagos are not indigenous; they are descendants of people who fled from Male centuries ago. Today, they maintain a traditional way of life in villages composed of adobe huts, most topped with grass roofs, interconnected by dirt paths and shaded by ancient trees, with a central square for ceremonies and secluded areas for initiations involving scarification. There is no electricity, apart from generators or solar panels at schools and, in some villages, a disco. Cooking is done outdoors, and elders make decisions regarding natural resources after consulting with spirits.

Sonia explains that villagers do engage with the outside world—they can reach the mainland in less than two hours by small wooden boats, and some leave for work or education—but most opt to stay.

With villagers speaking Portuguese Creole, passengers mainly communicated with them through gestures. Cameras and smartphones became a bridge for connection; we took photos, and they eagerly requested to see them. On the beach of Carache Island, children welcomed us, and Sasha joined in by performing cartwheels and dancing, which the kids imitated, resulting in shared laughter.

Cashews are the primary export of Guinea-Bissau, and we passed by numerous cashew trees en route to Sonia’s initiation village. We arrived to the rhythmic sounds of men pounding palm in a metal barrel to produce palm oil, which is used for cooking, winemaking, and ceremonies. Women working over bubbling pots, another stage of the production process, stood up to perform an impromptu dance, their grass or bark skirts (for the elders) complementing colorful cotton dresses. Children followed us throughout the village.

In Anipoco on Caravela Island, young boys vied for the chance to hold my hand while girls shadowed Sasha during our village tour. We gathered later for an energetic drumming and dance performance, featuring a man in a grass skirt who danced to imitate sacred cows. The performance came to an abrupt halt when one dancer fainted. We were told it was due to an evil spirit, but Sonia later assured us the man was fine.

Our fourth and final day in the Bissagos was spent at Sonia and Laurent’s property, which featured a white-sand beach, an open bar, crepes for snacks, and the sole opportunity to purchase souvenirs.

In some respects, it felt reminiscent of a cruise line's private island experience, yet it offered a distinctly more adventurous itinerary in a much less accessible location.

On our day in Gambia, we chose a “Roots” shore excursion inspired by Alex Haley's book, which, in my view, prompted more questions about the slave trade than it answered. Nonetheless, the journey was worthwhile for the chance to cross the Gambia River on a bustling local passenger ferry, where vendors sold everything from food to electrical cords, and passengers dressed in vibrant attire, along with a couple of live goats, filled the deck. Many locals were eager to engage in conversation.

We returned to Dakar, having gained at least some understanding of West Africa, with much more to explore.

The vessel

Our nearly two-week itinerary featured several days at sea, and HX Expeditions’ MS Spitsbergen, a former ferry transformed into an expedition ship in 2016, provided a very comfortable and pleasantly relaxed setting for our voyage. Casual dress was perfectly acceptable for dinner, and the easy camaraderie that arises on a small ship was evident, especially during open-seating buffet meals and late-night chats in the cozy Explorer Lounge. One memorable evening included a crew rock band performing on deck, inspiring many guests—and even the captain—to hit the dance floor.

Joining the 84-member crew for the West Africa route was the friendly chef Koffi Gassan from Togo. He offered lectures and cooking classes, preparing delicious West African dishes such as Senegalese Chicken Yassa, which features chicken and caramelized onions; jollof rice, a flavorful one-pot meal with rice, tomatoes, chiles, and meat; and spicy hot pepper soup. “This is my lifelong dream, to showcase my talents to the world,” he shared with me.

Like the rest of the ship, the cabins are tastefully decorated with Scandinavian furnishings and cleverly designed to maximize space. There are six cabin categories, ranging from compact 96-square-foot inside cabins (without windows) to a two-room, 355-square-foot Owner’s Suite (accommodating four guests with a sofa bed) that includes a balcony. The windowed Arctic Superior cabins strike a nice balance, but if you're prone to motion sickness, you might want to steer clear of those on the upper decks toward the front, as they can feel more movement.

In addition to a small gym, the MS Spitsbergen features an ocean-view sauna and two outdoor hot tubs. Sun loungers on the top deck are available for those looking to unwind under the sun.

How to cruise in West Africa

Following five sailings in West Africa that concluded in January, HX has decided not to return this fall as originally scheduled due to concerns about political unrest in certain regions of West Africa. Currently, the cruise line refers to this as a "pause," rather than a complete cancellation of the route. Travelers interested in the itinerary should stay in touch with the line in the coming weeks and months to check on the potential resumption of West Africa sailings. This season’s 13-day West Africa cruises started at approximately $7,000 per person. Other cruise lines, including the French company Ponant and the ultra-luxury line Silversea, have planned spring visits to the Bissagos and Cape Verde for this year and next.