Spaghetti is a Must-Try in Japan

Here’s my top recommendation for anyone visiting Tokyo: Make sure to try the spaghetti.

This suggestion reflects a broader philosophy: When traveling, don't just stick to local dishes. Foods with foreign origins that have been adapted to the local palate provide unique insights into both cultures, revealing stories of migration, integration, and sometimes colonial legacies. So, enjoy Chinese takeout in India, kebabs in Germany, and in Japan, savor curry rice, pizza, and French pastries — all reimagined by Japanese tastes.

On a more literal note, when you’re in Japan, definitely indulge in spaghetti — specifically, wafu spaghetti. 'Wafu' means 'Japanese style,' so wafu spaghetti is simply spaghetti prepared with Japanese flavors.

But what exactly does wafu spaghetti entail? It’s a range of spaghetti dishes enhanced with umami-rich soy sauce or butter blends, seaweed replacing Parmesan, or shiso substituting basil. While Italian pasta in Japan may be seen as sophisticated, wafu spaghetti is more akin to a beloved comfort food for teenagers, similar to nachos or pizza rolls. Wafu spaghetti restaurants often resemble diners, with patrons enjoying bowls of noodles with chopsticks at the counter.

Italian pasta made its debut in Japan during the Edo period (1603-1868), but it was American influence, not Italian, that popularized spaghetti in Japan. After World War II, American troops introduced spaghetti as a staple in military rations. By the 1960s, it had become a sensation, first appearing in local kissaten (casual coffee shops) and later driving the 1980s 'Itameshi Boom'—a surge in Japan’s fascination with Italian cuisine. Today, you can find both Italian and Japanese-style spaghetti throughout metropolitan Japan, and it's definitely worth seeking out. Here’s a quick guide to the major types of wafu spaghetti and the best places in Tokyo to enjoy them.

Tarako Spaghetti ('Hole In the Wall')

The quintessential wafu spaghetti is tarako. This dish features al dente pasta mixed with tangy tarako (salted pollack roe), butter, and a hint of soy sauce, topped with crispy nori. For an authentic taste of tarako spaghetti, visit its original home: Kabe no Ana ('Hole in the Wall') in Shibuya. Established in 1953 by Takayasu Narimatsu, who learned about spaghetti from CIA Far East Secretary Paul Bloom, it became one of Tokyo’s first spaghetti restaurants. It quickly gained popularity with U.S. military members, American expatriates, and curious locals.

Initially, Kabe no Ana offered just three dishes: Spaghetti A (spaghetti with meatballs for 200 yen, about $1.85), Spaghetti B (spaghetti without meatballs but with extra pasta for 150 yen or $1.40), and Spaghetti C (regular spaghetti without meatballs for 100 yen or $0.93). The story goes that a customer once brought caviar to try as a spaghetti topping. The caviar spaghetti was a hit but too pricey to sustain, leading to the introduction of tarako as a more affordable alternative. Today, tarako spaghetti can be enjoyed plain or with additions like shimeji and matsutake mushrooms, green onions, and whitefish. For a spicier option, try mentaiko spaghetti, where the pollack roe is seasoned with chili before being mixed with the pasta.

Napolitan Spaghetti

Napolitan spaghetti (not to be confused with Neapolitan) is actually a type of youshoku, or Western-style Japanese cuisine. Unlike wafu dishes that use Japanese ingredients like soy sauce, napolitan uses Western staples such as ketchup. Although it bears no relation to Naples, this dish was reportedly created at the Hotel New Grand in Yokohama during the U.S. occupation. Chef Shigetada Irie made do with wartime rations — canned tomato paste, spaghetti, garlic, bacon, and canned mushrooms — to create a dish for General Douglas MacArthur. Although he originally used tomato puree, ketchup became a staple ingredient due to its availability. Traditional napolitan spaghetti includes mushrooms, green peppers, onions, Japanese-style wieners, and ham or bacon sautéed in butter or olive oil, then tossed with ketchup. It’s often served with grated Parmesan and Tabasco, and sometimes on a sizzling skillet with a light omelet on top.

For a generous serving of sweet and savory napolitan, visit Sabouru 2 in Jinbocho, especially after exploring the local used bookstores. Their napolitan is a classic, rich red, and the portions are notably large, even by American standards. At lunch, you can get a set meal with spaghetti, a small salad, and coffee for about 850 yen ($7.88), or just the spaghetti with salad for 650 yen ($6). For a refreshing treat, try their melon cream soda — a fizzy, vibrant green drink topped with vanilla ice cream.

Ankake Spaghetti

A specialty of Nagoya, ankake spaghetti is a Japanese twist on spaghetti Bolognese that emerged with the Italian food boom of the 1980s. The term “an” refers to a rich gravy used in Japanese-style Chinese cuisine, thickened with potato or cornstarch. In this dish, the gravy is tomato-based and spiced with white pepper, accompanied by toppings like crispy panko-breaded prawns, mixed vegetables, and meats such as sausage and bacon. The spaghetti is typically cooked beyond al dente to achieve a softer, almost noodle-like texture, and it’s usually eaten with chopsticks to manage the sauce better.

Ankake spaghetti is a true regional specialty, mostly found in Nagoya. In Tokyo, you can enjoy it at Pasuta de Koko, an offshoot of the popular curry rice chain Coco Ichibanya. Try the classic Mila-can (929 yen, $8.60) with sausages and green peppers, or for a hearty meal, the Pork Picatta (827 yen, $7.66) with a pork cutlet wrapped in a crispy omelet. If ankake isn’t your choice, their curry meat spaghetti with ground beef, mushrooms, and peppers is excellent as well. The kids’ menu includes a mini ankake spaghetti and a tasty napolitan. Afterward, take a relaxing stroll in nearby Hibiya Park to digest.

Other Delights

The world of wafu spaghetti offers more variety than you can imagine. There’s the tangy, vibrant umeboshi spaghetti with fermented plums, or a pesto version made from yukari (dried red shiso). You might encounter spaghetti drenched in butter and soy sauce, with tender, fresh squid. Try Hokkaido-style soup spaghetti brimming with scallops and prawns, or the sticky, flavorful natto spaghetti featuring fermented soybeans.

For a true spaghetti adventure, check out two spots with extensive menus. The Spajiro in Shimokitazawa boasts a wide array of wafu and youfu (Western-style) spaghetti. Enjoy dishes like garlic-braised littleneck clams spaghetti or the Spajiro tarako spaghetti topped with a mountain of scallions. Spajiro offers small, medium, and large portions at no extra cost, or an extra-large serving for just 190 yen ($1.75) if you’re starving.

Alternatively, visit Yomenya Goemon in the Yaesu underground shopping area for inventive wafu spaghetti options. Try the pork shabu-shabu spaghetti with rich sesame dressing, corned beef and spinach spaghetti with soy butter, or uni and ikura spaghetti with soy sauce and olive oil. For a unique experience, the “‘3 Kinds of Nebaneba” combines natto, pickled mushrooms, tororo (sticky mountain yam puree), and a raw egg yolk for a gooey, slurp-worthy dish.

Top Spots for Wafu Spaghetti:

Check out Kabe no Ana at 2-25-17 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo; Sabouru 2 at 1-11 Kanda Jinbocho, Chiyodaku, Tokyo; Pasuta de Koko at 1-23-9 Nishi-Shini, Minato-ku, Tokyo; Spajiro Shimokitazawa at 2-14-13 Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo; and Yomenya Goemon at 2-1 Yaesu, Chuouku, Tokyo.