Stunning Scenery, Ancient Ruins, and Wine: Biking Through Turkey’s İzmir Province

I followed my cycling guide, a spirited 19-year-old named Yiğit—pronounced simply, as he explained: “Yeat. Like the rapper.”

Being a generation older, I wasn’t familiar with that 23-year-old artist—or any Gen Z pop-culture reference, for that matter—but as we cycled through the picturesque countryside of Turkey’s İzmir Province, it was clear we would connect over our love for biking and the stunning landscapes rather than our musical tastes.

Many travelers hurriedly visit İzmir Province just for its renowned archaeological sites, like the ancient Greek city of Ephesus and the House of the Virgin Mary. However, the region offers a wealth of experiences beyond these highlights. Next to ancient Ephesus lies a modern city with 3000 years of history, known as Turkey’s most Western-oriented metropolis (and its seafood restaurants are not to be overlooked). Surrounding this vibrant hub is a laid-back countryside stretching along the central western coast, with a peninsula extending towards the Greek Isles. The province boasts varied landscapes, from farmland and vineyards to rugged mountains, beaches, and charming seaside villages—all best explored by bike. I chose to experience it on a cycling tour with Argeus Travel, complete with a support van and a knowledgeable guide.

Traversing the Karaburun Peninsula from coast to coast

On our first ride, Yiğit guided me across the Karaburun Peninsula, which extends northward from the larger İzmir Peninsula to the west. We cycled approximately 51 km (32 miles) from the coastal town of Çeşme to İçmeler, a beachside neighborhood in Urla. Our journey began on a palm-lined promenade, with the red-tiled roofs of upscale homes on one side and the shimmering turquoise waters of the Aegean Sea on the other. We then ventured through quaint seaside communities before ascending into the hills as we headed east along country roads to reach the peninsula's opposite side. The terrain steadily climbed—totaling an elevation gain of about 700 m (2300 ft)—offering views of rocky hills and olive groves amidst a dusty, shrub-covered landscape. Using our strength to push forward, we finally arrived at the eastern coast of the peninsula and rode alongside a local highway, with rugged coastal vistas reminiscent of California's Pacific Coast Highway—if not for the occasional mosque dotting the roadside.

“Do you want to pick up the pace?” Yiğit inquired.

“No, this pace feels just right,” I replied. Perhaps he was eager to accelerate after sharing stories of wild mountain-biking escapades with his friends, the kind of youthful antics that come with being young. He was quite animated as he recounted these tales in English. “I mostly learned English by following memes on TikTok,” he said, a proud member of Gen Z.

Pausing to enjoy food and drink in Urla

Nestled in the heart of the İzmir Peninsula, Urla is a delightful destination in its own right, a favored retreat for urban dwellers from İzmir. Before my next ride, I took time to savor the diversity of its culinary offerings. I participated in a wine tasting at Urla Şarapçılık, one of the many wineries that make up the thriving Urla Wine Trail. I also dined in the garden at OD Urla, a renowned farm-to-table restaurant led by celebrated chef Osman Sezener. My meal featured traditional dishes like haşlama, a classic Turkish lamb stew, and korokeç, the local specialty of grilled sheep chitterlings. Unlike the version served with tomatoes and toppings in Istanbul, the İzmir style is simply grilled to perfection—neither too tough nor too rubbery—and enjoyed on its own or nestled in a toasted long roll.

Back on the (country) road

With our bellies full (mine perhaps a bit more than necessary), Yiğit and I resumed our ride, starting at the ruins of the ancient Greek city of Klazomenai. We cycled southward, traversing the İzmir Peninsula for about 29 km (18 miles) to the coastal resort town of Sığacık. We navigated briefly through the bustling center of Urla before shifting to quieter farmland roads, surrounded by fields of blooming artichokes and the occasional slow-moving tractor, even spotting a lone donkey blocking the road. As we pedaled on, herds of goats became commonplace, and the landscape opened up to vast meadows adorned with bright yellow and crimson wildflowers, framed by towering wind turbines on the horizon. Views of hay bales transitioned to palm trees as we approached the Icarian Sea.

“We made it!” Yiğit cheered, beaming with joy. We refueled with a fresh seafood lunch at the marina and took a quick tour of the small archaeological site of Teos.

An uphill trek through Selçuk

In the Selçuk district, located south of the peninsula, you'll discover the renowned ancient Greek city of Ephesus, featuring its remarkable amphitheater (which once held 24,000 spectators) hewn into the western slope of Mt. Pion. The landscape is dotted with smaller mountains and the valleys in between—making for more challenging cycling routes, especially when the weather turns sour.

For our third and final leg, Yiğit and I began in the picturesque village of Şirince, embarking on a steep but brief journey toward the heart of Selçuk. After passing through the bustling main street lined with shops and cafes, the path quickly turned uphill; walking our bikes became increasingly necessary as the rocky trails steepened. The steady rain created slick, muddy conditions that were not kind to my road bike. Even Yiğit found the wet trail a bit tough on his mountain hybrid. “They labeled it a ‘mountain bike tour,’” he noted, “but it's really a 29-inch, full-suspension e-bike route.”

“With full suspension, this would be incredible,” I remarked. As the rain intensified, we opted to call it a day. Instead, we explored Şirince, enjoyed lunch, and indulged in a wine tasting (a perfect alternative!), before hopping into the Argeus support van to visit the popular archaeological sites (bikes are not allowed there).

Before we went our separate ways, I handed Yiğit a bottle of wine I'd purchased in Urla. His surprised smile was heartwarming. “Thanks, man,” the 19-year-old grinned. I was glad to see that his TikTok generation still valued a good bottle of wine.

I truly appreciated Yiğit's guidance during our cycling adventure. Even though our final ride was cut short, I still soaked in the stunning countryside as we walked our bikes through the rain. Riding on two wheels instead of a tour bus allowed me to fully experience the aromas around me: freshly cut grass, wildflowers, and bales of hay—plus, even the scent of manure had a surprisingly sweet undertone. I heard the sounds of tractors passing by, the bells and baas of roaming goats, and the distant calls to prayer from a minaret. Most importantly, cycling through İzmir was a fantastic way to burn off some of those delicious local calories.

Making it a reality

Although İzmir boasts a lively cycling culture with designated paths featured on cycling maps and trail apps like Komoot, finding a local rental for longer routes beyond the capital can be tricky. Companies like Argeus offer bicycles, a guide, and a support van. The trip I took, including a domestic flight from Istanbul, starts at $2425 per person for a group of eight, with prices rising for smaller groups. Alternatively, Biking in Turkey, the cycling branch of Middle Earth Travel, provides guided or self-guided options, priced between $1500 and $2100 for an eight-day, seven-night adventure.

Erik visited Turkey at the invitation of the Türkiye Tourism Promotion and Development Agency. Dinogo Planet does not accept complimentary services in exchange for favorable coverage.