Svaneti: A Gateway to Georgia’s Timeless Highlands

On a chilly, haunting February evening, just 10 weeks before Easter, groups of men carrying torches make their solemn way to a nearby cemetery.

They gather for a night of feasts, emotional toasts to the departed, chanting sacred hymns, and circle dances around a crackling bonfire. Each grave is touched by the glow of a birch torch, while snow-carved tables are laden with homemade spirits and bread adorned with beeswax candles.

This is Lamproba, an ancient ritual that marks the beginning of spring and serves to honor the departed—both in memory and spirit.

It’s just one of the many enduring traditions of Svaneti, a secluded region spread across Georgia's highlands, where snow-draped peaks and dense spruce forests conceal centuries-old customs.

Connected by a series of ancient hamlets, Svaneti is renowned for its unique highland culture, enigmatic traditions, and its ancient language—none more symbolic of the region than the hundreds of koshkebi (medieval watchtowers) that punctuate the rugged mountain vistas.

A Hiker's Haven

With its tough terrain and remote location, Svaneti is a dream come true for adventurous trekkers. During alpine summers, the region draws travelers eager to explore its network of trails that wind through centuries-old villages, past ancient churches, lush meadows, and the vast, untamed expanse of the Caucasus Mountains.

The most popular trek spans 3-5 days, beginning in Mestia, a charming town nestled among towering peaks, where iconic Svan towers stand guard. Rather than camping, hikers can rest in welcoming villages along the route, where hearty meals and homemade spirits await to rejuvenate them.

One such village is Adishi, a peaceful retreat brimming with historical landmarks like the 12th-century Saint George Church, where pilgrims make offerings of sacrificed sheep and potent local spirits in gratitude to the dragon-slaying saint. The journey culminates in Ushguli, a remote cluster of villages nestled beneath the imposing Shkhara Mountain.

Apart from a few red beer tents, Ushguli has remained largely unchanged since its founding in the 12th century, with the lively sounds of young boys racing on horseback echoing through the village.

Atop a solitary hill in Ushguli stands Lamaria, a modest 10th-century Orthodox Christian church dedicated to the ancient Svan goddess. The church is a powerful symbol of the region's contrasting heritage, with weathered frescoes and an altar bathed in a dim glow from a single beam of light streaming in through the clerestory above.

For those seeking a gentler adventure, Mestia and the nearby village of Mazeri offer an array of day hikes that would make even John Muir take notice. You can wander towards the hidden Shdugra waterfall above Mazeri or take on the challenging day trek from Mestia to the pristine Koruldi Lakes.

To journey between Mazeri and Mestia, tackle the challenging Guli Pass – a demanding yet rewarding trek offering breathtaking views of Mt. Ushba. This peak is rich in myth, particularly the legend of Dali, the Svan goddess of the hunt, who is immortalized in the ancient folk song and circle dance, “Dælil k’ojas khelghwazhale” (“Dali is Giving Birth on the Crags”).

A Culture as Rich as Its Landscape

The local greeting for a good day is “Khocha ladagh.”

Isolated in the rugged mountains for centuries, the Svans managed to escape the many conquests and wars that ravaged the lowlands of Georgia. This historical seclusion has fostered a culture and language as unique and distinct as the landscape itself.

The Svan language, a nearly extinct cousin of Georgian, has survived through oral tradition, a testament to the endurance of the region. Though it faces the threat of extinction, the language lives on in the polyphonic hymns that continue to echo through the mountains, preserving it like ancient amber.

Men dressed in traditional woolen chokhas, deep red in color and adorned with embossed daggers at the waist, still come together to belt out raw, unrefined melodies of ancient folk tales and ritual chants in their native Svan tongue.

These folk songs resonate through the numerous religious celebrations unique to Svaneti, like Kvirikoba – the annual pilgrimage of Orthodox Christians to St. Kvirike, an 11th-century church perched high above the village of Kala.

The holiday is marked by fervent prayers to the mystical Shaliani icon, a relic typically kept behind glass in a local museum but lent out for the occasion each year. Such traditions are deeply rooted in the region's history. Over the centuries, Svaneti has served as a sanctuary, with relics and treasures often hidden here for safekeeping during times of war.

Svaneti, with its hundreds of koshkebi (medieval towers)—some standing for over a thousand years—feels more like a scene from a Tolkien saga than a modern European destination.

The wild terrain of Svaneti could never be defended by a conventional wall. In their time, these towers acted as both a defense against invaders and homes for entire families. Many of these ancient structures still stand proudly over the land, with the village of Chazhashi boasting a labyrinth of 200 such towers.

In Mestia, you’ll find the Margiani House, a tower that has been transformed into a museum, preserving the legacy of the renowned Margiani family who once called it home.

Local Cuisine

The heart of Svan culture lies in its food—rich, hearty, and deeply comforting. In a humble schoolhouse tucked away on a rural road in Latali, women in long dresses labor over grindstones, their work filling the air with the fragrant aromas of wild caraway, coriander, and garlic.

These women are preparing Svanuri marili the traditional way—grinding it from scratch with a mix of seven spices: salt, coriander, blue fenugreek, crushed red pepper, dill, marigold petals, and wild caraway seeds.

Originally created to stretch salt supplies, Svanuri marili quickly became a beloved staple, not only in Svaneti but across Georgia. Just a pinch can elevate a hearty pot of lobio—steamed beans from nearby Racha-Lechkhumi—or add zest to a simple cucumber and tomato salad. You’ll find it dispensed in small plastic packets all over the region, generously sprinkled over all kinds of Svan and Georgian dishes.

The harsh winters of Svaneti necessitated a diet that could be stored and preserved, relying heavily on meat, potatoes, and grains to survive the long cold months.

A local favorite is tashmijabi, a dish of steaming hot potatoes blended with briny cheese, creating a stretchy, gooey, putty-like mixture that’s pure comfort.

Even more beloved is kubdari, a soft, frisbee-shaped bread filled with a hearty mix of beef, stewed onions, and fragrant spices.

For a meatless yet equally satisfying option, try fetviani—flatbread stuffed with tangy mountain cheese and green millet flour—or chvishtari, a crispy corn bread loaded with cheese. Pair it with a swig of local moonshine made from Svanetian alpine honey to complete the meal.