Taiwan’s breathtaking 106-year-old mountain railway

As a red and cream train climbs the Alishan mountains in Taiwan, locals and hikers wave enthusiastically at the passengers on board.

The journey feels like stepping into an adventure, evoking the excitement of a time when train travel was a thrilling new experience.

And in a sense, it truly is an adventure.

The train is part of the recently launched cruise-style tours along the historic Alishan Forest Railway, a 71.4-kilometer (44.4-mile) network of narrow-gauge tracks winding through the Alishan mountain range in central Taiwan.

Former Japanese logging railway line

Built in 1912 during the Japanese occupation, the Alishan Forest Railway was originally used to transport Taiwan cypress trees from the Alishan region. After logging was prohibited, it continued to serve as the sole passenger train ascending the mountains.

Today, it stands as one of the world’s most iconic and scenic mountain railways.

The Alishan Forest Railway travels from Chiayi city at 30 meters (98.4 feet) in elevation to Chushan, Taiwan’s highest train station at 2,451 meters (8,041 feet), showcasing a wide variety of natural landscapes along the way.

It holds the title of the highest narrow-gauge mountain railway in Asia, surpassing the famous Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, which climbs from 100 meters to 2,200 meters.

One of the most remarkable things about the Alishan railway system is how much of it has remained unchanged for over a century. The wooden railroad ties are still in place, and conductors must physically leave the train to manually switch the tracks.

“It feels more personal, unlike the cold, automated systems of modern trains,” says Liao Yuan-chiao, an Alishan train captain.

A passionate rail enthusiast, Liao left his teaching career six years ago to become a train assistant at the Alishan Forest Railway.

“I’m drawn to railways because of the deep, soothing hum of a diesel engine. The way the sound shifts as the train accelerates or decelerates feels alive,” says Liao.

“Fortunately, the Alishan Forest Railway still operates with diesel trains rather than electric ones,” Liao adds. “It’s truly my paradise.”

Preserving the Alishan Forest Railway

The “cruise tour” is part of efforts to revitalize and preserve the Alishan Forest Railway under new management by the recently established Alishan Forest Railway and Cultural Heritage Office (AFRCH), part of the Forestry Bureau.

The railway’s popularity waned after the construction of the faster, more convenient Alishan Highway in 1982.

The railway has faced multiple interruptions due to natural disasters and derailments. After taking over, AFRCH closed the service for three months to conduct maintenance and inspections, reopening in June 2018.

“The Alishan Forest Railway is an invaluable cultural treasure for Taiwan,” says Tang Yu-chin, spokesperson for AFRCH. “Preserving it is not only for tourism but to keep this rich heritage alive.”

Themed tours are held regularly, with the current series running every Wednesday until mid-October.

Rather than focusing solely on Alishan’s attractions, the tours delve into the history and culture of the Alishan Forest Railway. Travelers visit key sites like the wooden Beimen and Jhuchi stations, both meticulously restored to their original designs.

“I used this tool back when I worked as a lumberjack,” says 87-year-old volunteer guide Hsu Chao-huo, pointing at an old, rusted saw on display at the small museum in Shizilu Station.

“I’ve lived on Alishan my whole life. The mountain air is better for my health – the land below is just too hot,” says Hsu.

The cruise tour ends at Hinoki (Taiwan Cypress) Village near Beimen Station, a cultural enclave made up of 28 traditional Japanese-style houses that were once home to Japanese officials half a century ago.

‘I never imagined it could one day disappear,’ says a local resident.

While working at the Chuchi Township Office along the Alishan Forest Railway, Lai Guo-hua began capturing aerial photos of the surrounding area about four years ago.

“I grew up right next to the railway,” he recalls. “My grandfather and father both worked for the Alishan Forest Railway.”

“I always thought the railway would be here forever – until voices began calling for its demolition. Some argued it was no longer necessary, with the highway now offering a faster option.”

“That’s when I began photographing the Alishan Forest Railway. I wanted to share it with those who didn’t know about the line, as it holds so many memories from my childhood and the lives of all the people living along the tracks.”

“Those voices are still around, so we’re doing everything we can to raise awareness about the Alishan Forest Railway, hoping more travelers will come to appreciate it,” adds Wu Han-en, a part-time tourism lecturer in Tainan and the stationmaster at Fenqihu, one of the railway's main stops.

Getting to Alishan

The Alishan Forest Railway is not a continuous route, as a section of track between Shizilu Station and Alishan Station was damaged by a typhoon.

Travelers can board the main line at Chiayi Station, traveling to Fenqihu Station (a 2-hour and 20-minute ride), and then continue their journey by bus from Fenqihu Station to Alishan Station.

There is only one train departing from Chiayi at 9 a.m. on weekdays. On weekends, two additional trains depart at 8:30 a.m. and 9:30 a.m. (Check the schedule on this website).

From Alishan Station, three shorter routes – the Shenmu Line, Zhaoping Line, and Chushan Line – transport passengers between the main Alishan Station and key attractions in the Alishan Scenic Area.

Travelers should keep in mind that the best views are on the right-hand side when heading uphill and on the left when heading downhill.

The technical details

Beyond its rich history, learning some train-specific terminology can help you fully appreciate the distinctiveness of the Alishan Forest Railway.

For example, the railway features a loop line, spiral tracks, S-type curves, 180-degree U-turns, and Z-shaped lines – it’s rare to find all these unique track formations in a single railway system.

The train loops through four times, winding through several tunnels as it ascends and descends the narrow peak of Duli Mountain.

When the slope becomes steeper, the train must move in a Z-shaped pattern, slowly shifting back and forth to navigate the incline or descent.

Best hiking trail: Spirited Away in Alishan

One of the most captivating hiking paths is the 1.6-kilometer Shuishan trail.

With a discreet, almost hidden entrance, the trail guides hikers along an overgrown mossy railway track, passing by a few abandoned structures from days gone by.

At the end of the trail, a stunning 2,700-year-old Taiwan Cypress tree awaits hikers.

Attractions on Alishan

Exploring the attractions around Alishan can easily take two to three days.

The Chushan Line is the most popular route. It operates one round trip each morning, taking visitors to Chushan for sunrise and a breathtaking sea of clouds. A 15-minute hike from Chushan to Xiaoliyuanshan Lookout offers even more spectacular views.

Fenqihu Station, known as the Bento Kingdom due to its key role as a rest stop for past workers, is famous for its century-old food street and a former logging track now transformed into a bamboo forest hiking trail.

Shenmu Station offers several hiking trails that weave through the majestic ancient forests.

Zhaoping Station takes visitors to the beautiful Jiemei Lake and the scenic Sakura Skywalk.

From March to May, during cherry blossom season, the Alishan Forest Railway operates a special vintage steam train once a week. Fall is another popular time to visit the area.

Where to stay

At an altitude of 2,200 meters, the 103-year-old Alishan House offers the most luxurious accommodations in the region.

A plaque on each hotel door reveals which notable political figures have stayed in that particular room.

A contemporary addition to Alishan House sits alongside the original structure.

The historic wing of Alishan House also serves as a cultural museum, where ticket holders can enjoy a guided tour through the old Japanese-style hotel rooms and various historical exhibits within the hotel.

Tip: Be aware that many hotels with 'Alishan' in their name are actually located far from the park, as Alishan is an expansive mountain range. It's advisable to book a hotel within the park for convenience.

Where to enjoy a cup

The mountains of Alishan are renowned for producing some of the finest oolong teas and coffee beans in Taiwan.

As part of the cruise tour, guests are invited to participate in a tea-tasting session, where they can sample and purchase directly from the local Alishan tea farmers.

Alternatively, Fenqihu Station boasts numerous teahouses. Ding-Zhan Kitchen Coffee, located near the station, offers artisanal coffee made from beans that the owner grows and roasts himself.

How to purchase tickets for the Alishan Forest Railway

Main line tickets can be reserved online (in Chinese) up to 15 days prior to your travel date, or directly at some of the Alishan Forest Railway or Taiwan Railway station counters.

Tickets for the Chushan Line (TWD150) must be purchased in advance between 1-4 p.m. the day before departure at Chiayi Station. Bus tickets for the transfer from Fenqihu to Alishan are also available at Chiayi Station.