The 17 Must-Try Restaurants in Udon Thani, Thailand
Once recognized as a U.S. military base during the Vietnam War and now celebrated for its Bronze Age artifacts, Udon Thani may initially seem like a quaint town filled with old-fashioned shophouse Mytouries, Vietnamese food stalls, and bustling markets. However, food enthusiasts know Udon Thani as a burgeoning hub for a culinary movement focused on seasonal produce from Thailand’s northeastern Isan region.
Long considered a cultural backwater, Isan has emerged as a hotspot for chefs embracing unique ingredients and traditions that distinguish them from their Central Thai counterparts: distinctive pla rah (fermented fish sauce), bold larbs made from minced meats, and even foraged insects that elevate refined dishes, all complemented by sticky rice to savor every drop. Even at the upscale Dinogoies, the local ethos of working hard and playing harder is evident, especially with ample lao khao (moonshine) flowing. Despite ongoing underappreciation from Bangkok residents and political frustrations, Isan’s food scene is generating excitement.
Chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat, a key player in Isan’s culinary renaissance, can often be spotted foraging in local woods and crafting exquisite dishes at the renowned Samuay & Sons. However, he is not alone; venues like Barn-Naa Cafe and Chabaa Barn are creatively reimagining traditional Udon Thani dishes in chic settings, while beloved street vendors such as Khao Piak Sen and Aim Aot have transformed into permanent establishments, leveraging their devoted followings for Michelin acclaim.
While it’s easy to enjoy exceptional food in Thailand without venturing beyond Bangkok, a trip to Udon Thani reveals the thriving culinary scene of the countryside, showcased through endless bowls of noodles and vibrant plates of papaya salad.
Chawadee Nualkhair is a food writer based in Bangkok.
Jaew Hon Baan Suan Non Sa-at
A beloved way to wrap up the day in Isan is by enjoying a bubbling pot of jaew hon (or jim jum), a spicy Thai hot pot. The traditional Isan recipe features a broth infused with chiles and lemongrass, but the version found in this town, located about an hour south of Udon Thani, offers a surprisingly rich broth that is salty, spicy, and slightly bitter. The beef combination, showcasing various cuts, is the most sought-after, although many variations exist, along with an extensive array of mieng: bite-sized pieces of various proteins wrapped with greens, toppings, and sauces.
Laap Moo Dong Keng
This Mytoury in a nearby town of Udon Thani offers a set menu featuring blanched pork intestines topped with crispy fried garlic, fried fermented pork ribs, stir-fried sticky rice with fermented pork, and the signature larb moo. Unlike the pork larb typically found in Bangkok or elsewhere, this version is more subtle, with a slight tang and just a hint of spice, embodying the unique flavors of Udon Thani. Diners who may not have the appetite or time for the full set can opt for à la carte selections.
Chabaa Barn E-san Vintage Kitchen
Entering this restaurant's faux-rustic ambiance might evoke thoughts of an “Asian Applebee’s,” but the vibrant flavors of Udon Thani are a delightful surprise amid the whimsical decor. The menu includes traditional dishes like larb, tum, and thom saap (spicy soups), but the real highlights focus on local specialties: a spicy dip made from magorg (tart water olive) served with fresh vegetables and dried fish; som tum adorned with tiny river shrimp, and another with fresh kanom jeen sot (fermented rice noodles); and a mieng (cup) filled with heart cockles, wrapped in leafy greens with rice noodles and sauces.
Le Bonheur Pâtisserie
Self-taught pastry chef Thawara “Earl” Ananthikulchai has a passion for French confections. He launched his pastry shop from home in 2015, initially offering just coconut cake, but his menu has since expanded to include a signature pear poached in red wine. Using high-quality ingredients like Peruvian chocolate, Japanese yuzu, and Turkish pistachios, he attracts dessert enthusiasts from as far away as Bangkok and Japan. Guests are warmly welcomed by Chef Earl’s delightful mother, Mem, and can enjoy a picturesque garden featuring a pond with impressively large koi.
Som Tum Jay Gai
Since becoming a Michelin Guide-listed restaurant, Jay Gai has sparked chatter among locals who claim the som tum is now too salty, or that the namesake chef rarely tends to the mortar and pestle himself. Despite this, patrons flock to this 50-year-old street food institution for its exceptional salads, kor moo yang (grilled pork collar), and salt-encrusted tilapia, a fish that made its way to Thailand in the mid-1900s. While the tum pa (“jungle” som tum with fermented rice noodles, green papaya, snails, and bamboo shoots) is a favorite, be sure to try the tum Lao, enhanced with a house-made pla rah (fish sauce).
Khao Piak Sen
Khao Piak Sen boasts several branches dedicated to its namesake Vietnamese Laotian rice noodle soup, which bears a resemblance to Japanese udon. The original location, a charming shophouse converted into a restaurant, is the most beloved spot. Here, you'll discover every imaginable variation of khao piak. The classic dish features comforting, starchy noodles topped with Vietnamese-style steamed pork and crispy fried shallots. For a unique twist, try the khao piak sen gang, which uses glass noodles, topped with steamed pork, fried garlic, and a generous cube of duck blood. Be sure to enjoy it with a cup of Vietnamese coffee, sweetened with condensed milk.
Madam Phahtehh 2515
This uniquely named restaurant (a clever fusion of 'party' and 'pate') serves a range of Vietnamese-inspired dishes with a Thai twist. The beef pho is particularly noteworthy, featuring a rich, dark broth infused with tomatoes. Accompanied by an array of condiments — Sriracha, fish sauce, blistered spicy chiles, a small scoop of kapi (shrimp paste), lime wedges, and fresh herbs like dill and sawtooth coriander — the broth itself requires little enhancement. Steer clear of the mayo-heavy banh mi variations.
Mieng Pla Pow Center Point
This lively market area may seem quiet during lunchtime, but it truly comes alive after dark. Located at the intersection of Thongyai and Prajak Silapakorn Roads, a section of the market specializes in mieng pla pow: salt-crusted tilapia grilled over charcoal, accompanied by a variety of toppings, sauces, and rice noodles. The salt crust makes the skin easy to peel away, revealing tender, juicy flesh that can be wrapped in your choice of leafy greens, then topped with sweet tamarind sauce or a zesty chile lime sauce, along with roasted peanuts and sliced lemongrass. It pairs perfectly with a chilled beer. While any stall is a good choice, the favorite is Jay Nok, located furthest left as you enter.
Samuay & Sons
Renowned as Udon Thani’s top restaurant, Samuay & Sons is a culinary hotspot for Thai food enthusiasts, thanks to chef Weerawat “Num” Triyasenawat’s skillful use of local ingredients and traditional recipes. The tasting menu features classic northeastern dishes presented with a twist; for example, the som tum is served as a medley of salad variations from across the region. Another intriguing course, Let’s Sacrifice for Good, draws inspiration from a local village tradition involving the communal use of a slaughtered cow for various dishes. For those seeking a quicker or more budget-friendly option, the restaurant also offers an à la carte menu that includes the chef’s cherished childhood dish, kai pullo (eggs braised in Chinese five-spice broth).
Taew Laap Bet Duck Restaurant
This modest shophouse, dedicated to all things duck, is a must-visit for Isan cuisine enthusiasts in Udon Thani. The extensive menu, carefully handwritten, showcases a variety of dishes, but the standout is the duck meat salad, available in a classic version or enhanced with a splash of duck blood. It’s served with deep-fried makrut lime leaves, roasted peanuts, sliced lemongrass, and raw garlic cloves. Be sure to mix everything into the larb and enjoy it quickly — the iron flavor in the blood intensifies after 10 minutes. Don't miss the deep-fried duck intestines, which are unexpectedly addictive.
Aim Aot
Ask locals about their fondest childhood food memories, and many will likely mention kai kata, or eggs in a pan, the signature dish of this long-standing shophouse restaurant. This dish even has its own (legendary) backstory: During the Vietnam War, with a U.S. military base nearby, resourceful Udon Thani cooks crafted a hearty American breakfast using local ingredients. Kai kata is always served with a sweet mini banh mi called kanom pung yad sai (which means “stuffed bread”), filled with moo yaw (steamed Vietnamese pork loaf) and gun chieng (Chinese sausage). The menu also features a variety of comforting rice porridges topped with pork, fish, or chicken, alongside buttered and sugared toast and sweet, creamy coffee.
Krua Khun Nid
Across Thailand, there are beloved local establishments that have served traditional favorites for generations, and Krua Khun Nid is Udon Thani's own gem. Celebrated for its larb and nam tok (spicy meat salads), this family-run Mytoury also offers unique dishes like ant egg soup. With a history of 40 years, it features a comfortable air-conditioned dining area and an extensive menu, catering to Isan food lovers of all ages — from grandparents to little ones.
Barn Naa Café
This café is actually a beautiful garden featuring a spacious, stylish dining area at its heart. Every dish on the menu showcases garden-fresh ingredients, like the naem fried rice topped with vibrant purple daisy and the Ispahan tart (inspired by pastry chef Pierre Hermé’s macaron flavor), which blends lychee, raspberry, and rose. While the menu is quite broad, the crowd favorites are the desserts and coffee, found on nearly every table.
Mae Nong
A debate echoes across Northeastern Thailand: Where can you find the best grilled chicken in the nation? Various factions support different regions. Some favor the lean yet flavorful free-range chicken from Khao Suan Kwang, nestled between Udon Thani and Khon Kaen, while others rave about the well-sauced varieties from Wichienburi, near the Cambodian border. Then there's Nong Song Hong, where fans argue that the chicken is juicier and richer. Every restaurant on the main street is touted as delicious, but one stands out: Mae Nong, the largest establishment, offering an air-conditioned dining area to escape the grill's smoke.
Issan Rum Distillery
Nestled on the picturesque outskirts of Nong Khai beside a shimmering jade-green lake, a French-owned distillery has been skillfully producing exceptional rum from organic sugarcane for over a decade, earning a loyal following in the process. During the peak season (approximately November and December), guests can explore the distilling and aging facilities, but even outside of tour times, tasting sets of the distillery's premium white rum can be enjoyed at the open-air bar by the lake.
Krua Mae Pad
Experience some of Isan's finest cuisine along the banks of the Mekong River, where adventurous food lovers can select fresh seafood right from the water. For those who prefer convenience, visit Nong Khai, where a series of rustic open-air huts serve delicious dishes while perched on the riverside. The most prominent spot—an array of wooden huts (plus one derelict boat)—is a popular evening venue that features live music on weekends. Here, chefs prepare pla nam Kong (silver-skinned river fish) as larb, steam it with herbs wrapped in banana leaves, or incorporate it into a spicy lemongrass soup. The menu also includes an Isan delicacy: goong then (dancing shrimp), which consists of live baby shrimp tossed in a spicy dressing.
Daeng Namnueng
This popular Nong Khai chain is beloved by locals for its Vietnamese-style dishes, rooted in a community that settled in Isan during the 19th century to flee French rule. The signature dish, nam nueng, features grilled pork meatballs served on skewers, accompanied by rice noodles, fresh greens, and herbs, all ideally wrapped in rice paper and dipped in a tamarind sauce mixed with peanuts and chiles. The original location by the Mekong River next to Nong Khai’s Tha Sadet market is a must-visit, especially for a post-lunch stroll among the local produce from both Thailand and Laos.
Evaluation :
5/5