The 18 Trendiest Mytouries in Des Moines, According to 2020 Campaign Insiders
Des Moines, Iowa, stands out as a culinary gem in the Midwest. With a population of 210,000, it ranks just outside the top 100 largest U.S. cities (at No. 105), yet boasts one of the highest per capita restaurant densities in the nation: 28.2 per 10,000 residents, as reported by the Iowa Restaurant Association, surpassing every major U.S. city except San Francisco. Beyond the typical corn dogs and fried pork tenderloin joints, Des Moines now features a breezy Australian café, numerous farm-to-table establishments, and a local vegan burger haven. What drives this dining boom? The upcoming presidential election likely plays a significant role.
Every four years, Des Moines becomes the focal point of America’s political landscape. The Iowa Caucuses, set to occur in February 2020, are known as the first nominating event for the U.S. presidential election. Iowa has historically been pivotal for Democrats — for example, a win in the 2008 caucuses propelled then-Illinois senator Barack Obama into the spotlight, while a 2004 loss (along with a poorly timed outburst) sank the candidacy of Howard Dean, who was once the frontrunner. This election cycle, 24 Democratic candidates are competing for the nomination, with each one, plus their teams of campaign operatives, arriving months in advance to secure votes, all while followed by a hungry pack of national media capturing every moment.
The influx of visitors during caucus season can greatly benefit local businesses. In past caucus years, popular spots like Zombie Burger — situated in the vibrant East Village area — have experienced sales spikes of 15 to 20 percent, according to chef Tom McKern. “I expect this year to see even higher numbers due to the volume of online orders,” he notes. Newcomer St. Kilda Cafe & Bakery also reported a 25 percent boost in sales thus far in 2019. Other local Mytouries are noticing similar trends and are adjusting their operations around the election season. As noted by Des Moines Register food reporter Brian Taylor Carlson, restaurants like Baru 66 and Al Punto in West Des Moines are relocating closer to downtown this fall to maximize their presence during the caucus period.
I recently immersed myself in the bustling caucus scene, sampling the diverse culinary offerings and engaging with influential figures while dining at the city’s most buzzworthy locations. If you’re eager to overhear campaign strategies, meet your favorite news anchor, or simply recharge after canvassing for votes, we’ve got you covered. Explore the following 18 must-visit restaurants in Des Moines, a curated list inspired by recommendations from locals, journalists, and campaign insiders.
Maid-Rite
Founded in 1926 by butcher Fred Angell, Maid-Rite is famous for its classic Iowa 'loose meat sandwich.' This dish features seasoned ground beef topped with onions and pickles, all served on a hamburger bun — think of it as a sloppy Joe without the tomato sauce. The fast-casual chain boasts 70 locations across the region, primarily in smaller towns. While the downtown outlet has recently closed, you can still find this nearly century-old local favorite at the Valley West Mall or Merle Hay Mall in Urbandale.
Waveland Cafe
One diner remarked that Waveland’s meals are designed to satisfy hunger, not to impress on Instagram. Still, this diner is a favorite among politicians in Des Moines, with one wall adorned by the signatures of presidential candidates.
Dinogoy A
'Ingersoll Avenue is what we refer to as restaurant row,' explains Brian Taylor Carlson, food and dining journalist at the Des Moines Register. 'You can literally stand still, close your eyes, and point to your next meal.' At the heart of this dining district is Dinogoy A, nestled inside a former Blockbuster Video that once served as the Obama 2012 Iowa campaign headquarters. Soak in that lingering positive vibe (especially the nostalgia of movie rentals) while enjoying Mediterranean cuisine, or take advantage of possibly the best happy hour deals in town: half-priced pizzas, wine, and beer daily from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
Cheese Bar
Iowa boasts more cattle than people, with over 200,000 dairy cows—roughly the same number as Des Moines residents. While the cows may not cast ballots, their dairy products are highly prized here. Pop some Lactaid and head over for a delicious spread of fondue, raclette, mac and cheese, grilled cheese, or a platter brimming with local and imported cheese and meats. Don't forget to visit the sister venue, the Cheese Shop, for take-home treats.
Harbinger
Joe Tripp, a four-time James Beard semifinalist, launched Harbinger two years ago after a notable six-year tenure at the acclaimed Alba in East Village. Now, he crafts New American cuisine with a twist of Asian influence, primarily highlighting fresh local produce. His mission? 'To encourage everyone to try something different. We don’t offer hamburgers or steaks here.' The restaurant focuses on mostly small plates served a la carte, allowing guests to mix and match, though opting for the five-course chef’s tasting menu is highly recommended.
A Dong Restaurant
You probably didn’t expect to find such excellent pho in Des Moines. A Dong, a beloved Vietnamese restaurant run by the Ngu family since 1991, offers a perfect blend of top-notch cuisine and a convenient downtown location, accommodating several dozen campaign staff members at once.
Smitty's Tenderloin Shop
Considered the Des Moines equivalent of LA’s In-N-Out on Sepulveda Boulevard, this family-run sandwich shop has been serving locals since 1967. The standout menu item is the King Loin, famously dubbed Iowa's best sandwich. These hefty delights measure a whopping 9 inches by 7 inches. Owner Ben Smith credits a New York Times reporter, Jonathan Martin, for putting them on the culinary map after he had to file a story while charging his laptop at Smitty's a decade ago. Since then, word of mouth and media features have solidified Smitty's as a must-try spot.
Django
This is a shoutout to both Django and Bubba, the younger siblings of Centro, offering delightful French and Southern dishes, respectively. They also include familiar options like burgers and salads, ensuring satisfaction for all diners. These spots are perfect for people-watching during election season when celebrities flock to Des Moines to promote their candidates, drawn in by the restaurants’ themed decor and impressive culinary offerings from diverse regions.
Centro
Since its debut in 2002, Centro has been the standout destination in downtown, remaining the go-to spot for locals. Seventeen years later, it continues to draw crowds every evening, predominantly serving Italian cuisine alongside a few popular options like the cheeseburger and Greek salad—menu staples in many city Mytouries, affectionately dubbed “global comfort eats.” Its coal-fired oven produces exceptional pizzas, such as George’s Favorite, named after chef-partner George Formaro, featuring Italian sausage from Graziano Brothers, a local Italian market. The New Yorker, loaded with meatballs, mushrooms, and roasted red peppers, is also a top seller.
801 Chophouse
For those wishing to overhear prominent network anchors and influential figures, this steakhouse in Des Moines' tallest building is the perfect spot, with New York strip steaks starting at $47.
Fong's Pizza
The top Chinese Mytoury in Des Moines is actually a pizzeria. You'll find all the favorites: General Tso, kung pao, and even orange chicken, all served as slices and pies. Late-night revelers from downtown flock to Fong’s to indulge in the famed crab rangoon pizza, often washing it down with a Tiki cocktail or two.
St. Kilda
This Australian café is the trendiest spot to debut in Des Moines since the 2016 election, and it comes highly recommended by every local restaurateur and journalist I consulted. Located slightly off the main downtown strip, patrons willingly venture out of their way to enjoy New York City prices for expertly crafted flat whites, grain bowls, and the star of the menu — avocado toast. Its success has led to a downtown branch in a former Starbucks and a new all-day venture called St. Kilda Surf and Turf across the river in the East Village. Each location is worth visiting, but the original exudes a unique vibe — and provides an elevated view of sleep-deprived campaign staffers and hungover journalists grabbing their morning boost.
El Bait Shop
El Bait Shop boasts the largest selection of American craft beers on tap in the world, with an impressive 262 lines to choose from. It’s hard to dispute their claim, although if you prefer, their sister venue The High Life Lounge is conveniently next door. The bar menu features some standout items, with the bacon-wrapped tater tots, spam egg and cheese sandwich, and nachos being essentials. Drop by in the late hours, and you’ll find photojournalists and campaign staff unwinding after a town hall or rally.
Zombie Burger + Drink Lab
This undead-themed burger spot is a favorite among campaign staff and celebrities, especially late at night after a long day on the campaign trail. With a full-service bar and comforting food, it’s the perfect stop. According to a local reporter, 'It’s where locals bring their out-of-town friends.' The standout dish is the Walking Ched, featuring beef patties, bacon, onions, and macaroni smothered in cheddar cheese, all nestled between two deep-fried macaroni and cheese buns.
Scenic Route Bakery
If a fully stocked pastry display excites you, head to Scenic Route, a beloved spot since the 2016 election cycle in a rapidly developing neighborhood. According to Jason Noble, an Iowa native and statewide communications director for the Warren campaign, 'You can’t enter without bumping into campaign staff.' It’s also common for key figures to drop by. If you're on the west side, check out La Mie Bakery, another favorite among campaign operatives for working over coffee and pastries.
Lucca
This was the top pick from Jonathan Martin of the New York Times during a recent encounter, and who am I to disagree with the man who put Smitty’s Tenderloin Shop on the culinary map? Lucca offers a four-course dinner tasting menu that lets you choose your adventure through a classic Italian-American experience: appetizers, pastas, mains, and dessert. However, lunch is the time to visit, featuring a la carte sandwiches and pasta plates for just $10. Recent diners include Ivanka Trump and Jill Biden, both of whom can agree on one thing: carbs make America great again.
Dirt Burger
Iowa holds the title of the pork capital of the U.S., so vegan choices aren't usually a priority. Enter Tony Pille, who has spent the past three years sourcing fresh vegetables from local farms, including his own, to create a unique vegan burger. This isn’t just another alternative to the Impossible Burger or Beyond Meat; as Pille puts it, this patty features “ingredients you can actually pronounce.” Beets, sweet potatoes, carrots, spinach, buckwheat, and mushrooms make up the 19 ingredients, primarily sourced from nearby farms. Pair it with a side of Dirt Balls, the restaurant's twist on croquettes.
B&B Grocery, Meat & Deli
With a rich Italian-American heritage, this family-operated grocery and deli has stood the test of time on the south side for nearly a century, proudly displaying newspaper articles that attest to its legacy. Each day, crowds flock to B&B for their famous Killer Burgers, Grilled Killers, and Dads Killer, but the must-try item is the pork tenderloin sandwich, hailed by Michael Halle, the Clinton 2016 Iowa Caucus director, as the best in town. Smitty’s may have something to say about that.
Evaluation :
5/5