The 24 Must-Visit Restaurants in Salvador, Brazil
Situated on Brazil’s South Atlantic coast, Salvador is in the picturesque state of Bahia, known for its stunning northeastern beaches. Established in 1549 by the Portuguese, Salvador was the first capital of colonial Brazil, holding this title for two centuries before Rio and then Brasília. This rich history has left a profound cultural, culinary, and historical imprint on the nation.
With a rich blend of African, Indigenous, and European influences, Salvador is affectionately dubbed “the Black Rome,” reflecting its significance to the Afro-Brazilian community, which constitutes 80% of its population. While Portuguese colonization shaped much of Brazilian cuisine, the culinary contributions of enslaved Africans in Salvador are equally pivotal. Cozinha Baiana (Bahian cuisine) is a vibrant fusion of European cooking techniques (predominantly stews), pre-Columbian ingredients like cassava, and African spices such as dendê oil and okra. The local food culture is also shaped by Candomblé, an Afro-Brazilian religion that celebrates orixás (deities) through specific culinary offerings.
Today, Salvador is a premier gastronomic destination, blending casual botecos (bars) with lively modern restaurants serving iconic dishes like moqueca (a Brazilian seafood stew with fish broth and cassava porridge) and vatapá (seafood stew with coconut milk). Street vendors offer delightful bites such as acarajés (black-eyed pea fritters). Immerse yourself in the rich culinary heritage and thriving modern dining scene of Bahia’s capital.
Rafael Tonon is a food journalist living between Brazil and Portugal. He authored the book The Food Revolutions.
Sorveteria da Ribeira
In a city where temperatures rarely fall below 80 degrees, ice cream becomes a way of life. Both locals and visitors flock to Cidade Baixa, the waterfront area, just to savor the artisanal cones at Sorveteria da Ribeira. This shop offers unique flavors that go beyond the ordinary, including burnt coconut, corn, banana, and tamarind, featuring Brazilian fruits like umbu, cupuaçu, and soursop.
Encantos da Maré
Situated just behind the iconic Bonfim Church, this seafood-centric restaurant boasts one of the most stunning views of Todos os Santos Bay. Chef Deliene Mota presents her unique interpretation of surf and turf: creamy mashed cassava topped with cheese curd gratin, featuring shrimp cooked in cream on one side and sun-dried beef sautéed in clarified butter and onions on the other. For a lighter option, sample the shrimp in tapioca batter or the grilled seafood platter, which includes lobster, octopus, squid, shrimp, and more. Mota’s plantain stew is a fantastic choice for vegetarians. In 2022, the team launched a new location in the Pedra Furada area, not far from the original restaurant.
Paraíso Tropical
Chef Beto Pimentel gained acclaim three decades ago as a pioneer in elevating cozinha Baiana, earning Paraíso Tropical recognition and numerous awards. He skillfully blends local seafood with Brazilian fruits and native herbs, many cultivated in his own garden. His expertise shines in signature dishes like dandá de camarão (a yucca stew with shrimp, Brazil nuts, and coconut milk) and rice with peguari (fighting conch) accompanied by herbs, coconut slices, licuri palm, and Brazilian cherry.
Update: February 27, 2024: Paraíso Tropical is temporarily closed for renovations.
Café e Cana Botequim
This vibrant boteco (casual bar) located in the Carmo neighborhood is the ideal place to relax with a beer and snacks after exploring the Historic Center. Their cocktails are served in generous glasses, perfect for refreshing yourself after enjoying crispy golden cod fritters or the Baiano falafel, a local variation that uses white beans instead of chickpeas, paired with okra-infused baba ghanoush. Don’t miss the Salina das Margaridas, a drink made with cachaça, aridan beans, puxuri (a seed from an Amazonian tree), orange, and lemon. If you’re still feeling hungry, try the Baião de doido, a vegan twist on the classic Brazilian dish Baião de dois (a mix of rice and beans with jerked beef or bacon), featuring pumpkin, okra, and smoked tofu instead of meat.
Where is Q'Chama?
Visit Cadê Q’Chama for delicious regional specialties such as vatapá (a spicy stew made from prawn paste, dendê oil, peanuts, and coconut milk), moqueca, and caldo de sururu (a fresh yet rich shellfish soup). This laid-back restaurant also offers a four-course tasting menu that varies each week, allowing diners to sample dishes like sarapatel (a stew of pork and offal), braised beef tongue, and rabada (oxtail served with watercress).
705 Restaurant and Bar
Offering a fusion of contemporary Brazilian, Latin, and Mediterranean cuisine, 705's menu features an array of options from ceviche to risotto. Chef Raony Menezes skillfully balances flavors in dishes like seafood rice with shrimp, squid, lucine clams, and octopus, as well as a shareable moqueca paired with coconut rice and dendê farofa (toasted manioc flour in dendê oil). Don’t miss starting with mini abará, a steamed black-eyed pea dish wrapped in banana leaves, served with vinaigrette and spicy sauce.
Antique Bistrô
Located opposite Carmo Church, this chic restaurant is housed in a historic mansion with over four centuries of heritage. Enjoy your meal on the terrace while sipping various caipirinhas, such as ginger or peach, topped with refreshing popsicles. Take your time to choose from the menu as you admire the stunning view. You can also watch chef Davi Bastos and his team at work in the glass-enclosed kitchen, preparing dishes like grilled shrimp with jurubeba, or a seafood medley of lobster, squid, and mussels cooked in butter.
Di Janela
Nara Amaral originally opened Di Janela for her close friends, but it quickly gained popularity and became a local favorite. Situated near the famous Pelourinho on a cobblestone street lined with aging buildings, this casual Mytoury offers expertly crafted snacks like arancini Baiano (shrimp-stuffed rice fritters fried in palm oil) and hearty dishes such as Amaral’s famous octopus rice. The sidewalk tables are always bustling, so arrive early to secure a spot.
Amado
Amado is one of the most celebrated restaurants in Salvador, known as a culinary landmark. Chef and owner Edinho Engel showcases inventive dishes, such as his signature grilled fish paired with cashew nut farofa, caruru (okra infused with onion and ginger), and wild rice, along with duck magret served with creamy polenta, asparagus, and passionfruit sauce. The restaurant boasts a spacious and elegant atmosphere, complemented by breathtaking views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Velho Espanha
This historic bar in the city center nearly closed in 2017, but loyal customers stepped in to save it. The new proprietors have beautifully restored the hardwood ceiling and tiled floor while keeping the traditional menu intact. Sample the fumeiro (house-made smoked pork) served with banana puree, cheese curds paired with green bean vinaigrette, and pirão de leite (a creamy porridge made from milk and cassava). On weekends, enjoy live music that attracts local patrons.
Restaurante Origem
True to its name, this restaurant is where chef Fabrício Lemos and his wife, pastry chef Lisiane Arouca, began their exploration of the diverse biomes of Bahia. They now oversee a culinary empire in the city, which includes a casual Mytoury (Orí), a speakeasy (Gem), and a seafood-centric spot (Omí). At the acclaimed Origem, Lemos revives culinary techniques that had been forgotten. From the Recôncavo region, known for its rich African heritage, he serves efó, a stew featuring the native herb cow’s tongue, combined with dried shrimp, peanuts, and chestnuts. The 14-course tasting menu, presented in three acts—African Roots, Native Dishes, and Modern Transformations—includes dishes like breaded shrimp with bisque and roasted corn, tuna belly with lucine clam foam, octopus served with vatapá, and okra. Arouca’s desserts are equally inventive, utilizing local ingredients in exciting ways.
Bar do Jonas
As dusk descends, the outdoor seating at this vibrant bar in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood fills up with lively patrons, chilled beers, and delicious petiscos (snacks). Enjoy dishes like jerked beef with squash puree or cod fritters, served in portions for easy sharing. Bar do Jonas is also the perfect spot to sample Bahia’s unique take on roskas, fruity vodka-based caipirinhas, with enticing flavors like tangerine or pineapple.
Boia
This charming, intimate restaurant boasts a garden filled with fruit trees, where chef Kaywa Wilton (the son of a Bahian father and a French mother) highlights the diverse offerings of the sea. His inventive dishes inspired by global travels feature crab hot dogs, a tuna belly smash burger, and fish tiradito made with the freshest catch of the day. The lunch menu rotates weekly to feature the best ingredients sourced from local fishermen and producers.
Note: Boia is currently closed as it relocates to a larger venue, with plans to reopen by late February 2024.
Jiló Salvador
After successfully running the original Jiló in the tranquil coastal town of Itacaré for eight years, chef Ícaro Rosa and his wife, Elen Luz, have opened a new branch in Salvador's Pituba neighborhood. Rosa is part of a new wave of Black chefs transforming the city's culinary landscape. The menu features modern dishes that also reflect the chef’s childhood experiences, including shrimp tempura with vatapá, seafood carbonara with octopus and grilled shrimp, and moqueca risotto with fish.
La Bottega
At the elegant La Bottega, Brazilian ingredients take center stage in expertly crafted cocktails like the Feroce (cachaça, mixed citrus, and cilantro-basil syrup) and the Maní Garnish (gin, thyme, cashew shrub, and lemon). The snack menu features Italian-inspired options such as beef tartare with herb aioli, baked burrata, and bruschettas. Their wine selection, primarily Italian, is among the finest in the city.
Pepo Restaurante
Located in the Villa San Luigi food hall in Pituba, Pepo is a contender for the best Italian restaurant in Salvador. The menu, crafted by chef Peu Mesquita, features house-made pastas like casarecce, rigatoni, and fettuccine. Begin with savory cannoli filled with tuna tartare and mascarpone, or grilled shrimp paired with baked tomatoes and cheese foam, before indulging in hearty options like the 12-hour baked beef rib served with gnocchi and fonduta.
Carvão
Renowned for its steakhouses, Brazil offers a top-notch experience at Carvão in the Chame-Chame neighborhood, where you can truly embrace the meat sweats. This modern steakhouse elevates the traditional concept with dishes like smoked prime rib over apple tree wood and rice featuring octopus and squid with Spanish chorizo. The ambiance is enhanced by the flavors of fire, smoke, and salt, creating a warm atmosphere.
Djalma's Drinks
This hidden gem dive bar in Pituba is somewhat of a local secret. While you shouldn't expect craft cocktails, the beer is served exceptionally cold—what Brazilians refer to as 'stupidly cold'—and the service is always warm and welcoming. The menu features simple yet delightful options like fish stew and fresh crab salad.
La Taperia
With Salvador's average temperature around 82 degrees, cool off with a pitcher of sangria at this charming Spanish spot in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood. Enjoy pintxos and tapas while savoring dishes crafted by Spanish chef Jose Morchon and local chef Juli Holler. The menu features delightful Mediterranean-inspired bites such as beef with duck mousse and green grapes, quail eggs with chorizo and jamón, along with a variety of tortillas (like chorizo and bell pepper, or shrimp and leeks), seafood specialties, and paellas.
Silva Cozinha
After years of experience at various local restaurants, including Carvão, chef Ricardo Silva launched his first independent project facing the stunning Rio Vermelho beach. His menu features innovative meat and seafood dishes, highlighting favorites like grilled octopus served with focaccia, alongside a variety of pasta and broth-rich rice dishes featuring mussels or duck. The outdoor seating with ocean views is especially sought after.
Restaurante Manga
Dining at Manga offers a homely atmosphere, reminiscent of a friend's cozy townhouse. Owners Dante and Kafe Bassi opened their establishment in Rio Vermelho in 2020, joining a wave of new restaurants in Salvador. The tasting menu, showcasing the couple's culinary expertise, features a delightful 10-course experience, including unique dishes like the Oreo (a creative twist on the classic cookie, filled with crispy caramelized onion, smoked redfish, crème fraîche, dill, and raw onion) and dry-aged beef tongue paired with okra, rice, unagi, and local seaweed. Complementing the meal are refreshing cocktails, such as the Eugenia, crafted with gin, Brazilian cherry leaves, cucumber, and tonic.
Dona Mariquita
At this welcoming Mytoury in the Rio Vermelho neighborhood, chef Leila Carreiro presents her interpretation of “heritage cuisine.” For over a decade, she has dedicated herself to regional dishes, emphasizing street food favorites from Bahia and cherished local recipes that reflect African influences. Highlights include peguari (fighting conch), a popular summertime dish paired with cashew vinaigrette, and hauçá rice, a savory coconut and beef rice fried in palm oil with dried shrimp.
Acarajé da Cira
Make sure to savor acarajés before you leave Salvador, the city’s iconic street food. These delightful balls of crushed black-eyed peas are fried in dendê palm oil until they achieve a golden crisp, then opened up and filled with spicy pastes made from dried shrimp, onions, and cilantro. Acarajés come in various spice levels, so tread carefully with your first order—here in Bahia, “hot” truly means hot.
Casa de Tereza
Dynamic chef Tereza Paim was among the pioneers to demonstrate that Bahian cuisine can thrive in a restaurant environment, not just in home kitchens. Casa de Tereza, located in Rio Vermelho, stands as a delightful tribute to the region's culinary heritage, featuring several vibrantly decorated dining spaces named after Bahian cultural icons, including Candomblé deities. Begin your meal with snacks like the mix Baiano, showcasing the chef's finest bites such as shrimp and feijoada fritters. Be sure to try the moqueca; Paim is celebrated as the queen of this dish.
Evaluation :
5/5