The 32 Must-Try Mytouries in Oaxaca

If you see a woman skillfully mixing a frothy drink in a large clay pot, you've discovered Oaxaca's beloved beverage: tejate. Crafted from dried mamey seeds (a tropical fruit akin to a blend of avocado and melon), this refreshing drink boasts a unique flavor with a subtly sweet finish. Identifying the finest tejate in the city is nearly impossible, as recipes are handed down through generations, and each tejate maker (almost always women) adds her own special touch. Exceptional versions can be found at nearly any local market, with one of the best being prepared by Lucrecia Ruíz at the Benito Juarez market, where she offers a delightful variation made with cocoa. [$]

Chef Rene Saynes operates a vibrant, trendy venue showcasing an innovative seafood menu that highlights ingredients from his parents’ hometown of Juchitan in Oaxaca’s Isthmus Region. Featuring ceviches, fish tacos, impressive aguachiles, and fresh oysters on the half shell, this restaurant celebrates the rich offerings of Mexico’s coastal waters. Don’t miss the La Chula, a mezcal and seasonal fruit popsicle served in a michelada with your choice of beer. [$$]

This cart has been a beloved fixture for over 25 years at the corner of Jardin Conzatti, crafting puffy, loaded tortas in every imaginable combination: quesillo, picadillo, pork milanesa, tasajo, ham and pineapple, and breakfast options with egg and chorizo. Topped with pickled peppers and fresh vegetables, each sandwich is elevated to new heights. Pair it with an agua fresca and find a seat in the nearby park to savor your meal. [$]

With its cool green hues and wooden accents, Taco Sireno feels like a scene from an ’80s Mexican film, providing a perfect backdrop for the fresh seafood offerings. Be sure to try the fresh oysters with a michelada or Suero, followed by the black and red aguachile de camarón, the seafood tower, and the perennial favorite: the grilled cheese sandwich with shrimp. [$$ - $$$$]

Flor Heras, a third-generation chocolatier, co-owns Rito Chocolateria, the family business established years ago. Today, she takes her craft to new heights with Reina Negra, a sub-brand of meticulously sourced bean-to-bar chocolate available for sampling and purchase at the Rito shop. Located across from one of the busiest markets in the area, the store offers packaged chocolates, agua de chocolate, fruit-filled pastries, and other ready-to-eat delights. Heras also conducts small workshops, teaching visitors everything about chocolate, from raw ingredients to its production and its cultural significance to the people of Oaxaca. [$]

This is one of the most renowned street stalls in all of Oaxaca City, a long-standing favorite among local chefs and food enthusiasts. This family-run spot serves exceptional empanadas de amarillo (large corn quesadillas filled with tomato and chicken stew) and tacos de chile relleno, along with other made-to-order delights. Begin your day with traditional tacos and empanadas crafted from fresh corn dough and cooked on a traditional Oaxacan clay comal (large griddle) while the chorizo sizzles below. [$]

More a mezcal library than a typical bar, Mezcaloteca provides curated tastings led by knowledgeable experts, who take guests through some of the rarest and most iconic expressions of Mexico’s favorite spirit. Reservations are essential, and the prix fixe tasting, featuring samples of three different mezcals, serves as an excellent introduction to the spirit, as well as a delightful prelude to dinner. [$$]

This establishment is a true classic in Oaxaca. Fresh salsa prepared right at your table and warm Mexican hospitality define this acclaimed restaurant by chef Alejandro Ruiz, who honors the traditional flavors, recipes, and heritage of his home state with a menu that delights from start to finish. Enjoy mole negro, coloradito, and manchamanteles—three of Oaxaca’s most famous dishes—crafted from scratch using ingredients sourced from eight distinct culinary regions of Oaxaca. Don’t miss their mezcal cocktails, affectionately dubbed Mezcalinis. [$$$$]

Selva translates to jungle, which perfectly suits this new cocktail bar located on the second floor of Los Danzantes restaurant, where guests are undeniably whisked away to another realm. The emphasis here is on local ingredients traditionally used in Oaxacan healing, with their aromas, flavors, and textures reflected in the ever-changing drink menu—heavily featuring mezcal—curated by co-founder and beverage director Alexandra Purcaru. Once a month on Sundays, local chefs are invited to craft a special brunch menu paired with cocktails designed just for the occasion. [$$$]

Olga Cabrera from Tierra del Sol originates from the Mixteca region of Oaxaca, and her standout dish is her renowned mole. With over 30 varieties on the menu—some traditional and others her unique creations—the restaurant boasts a lovely, cozy terrace, perfectly situated in the heart of town. Recently, she has also converted the first floor into a bakery, Masea, Trigo, and Maîz, offering freshly baked breads and pastries daily. [$$]

Atole embodies comfort in a cup. This corn-based beverage is perfect for chilly mornings or evenings, being both hearty and nutritious. At La Atolería, Chef Olga Cabrera honors this traditional drink, offering a variety of continuously warmed pots for sampling throughout the day. Indulge in classic blends, seasonal fruit variations, and some unique flavors that you won’t typically find on the streets of Oaxaca. [$ - $$]

Located in a yellow building just a few blocks from the Santo Domingo cathedral, Chef Andy Sanchez crafts a menu that elegantly blends simplicity with sophistication, offering a modern take on Oaxacan cuisine. The octopus carnitas tacos are a perennial favorite, alongside a weekly rotating ceviche. Their micheladas feature a special mix from the nearby La Giralda Bar, and the hearty breakfast menu boasts stacks of pancakes topped with tropical fruits. [$$$]

Thalia Barrios Garcia comes from a rich culinary heritage, beginning with her grandmother and passed down through her mother and aunts in San Mateo Yucutindoô, located in Oaxaca’s Sierra Sur. After completing culinary school, her dream was to create a space where she could cook alongside her aunts and share the family recipes perfected over generations. Now, you can savor this exquisite cuisine, including flavorful soups and exceptional tamales, at Levadura de Olla, right in the heart of Oaxaca. Note: Levadura previously hosted Garcia’s exclusive chef’s table experience, but that concept, La Cocina de Humo, has since moved a few blocks away; see separate listing. [$$ - $$$$]

Just on the outskirts of the bustling downtown, Criollo serves as the culinary workshop for chefs Enrique Olvera and Luis Arellano. Renowned in the Mexican food scene, they joined forces after working at Olvera’s acclaimed restaurant, Pujol. At Criollo, Arellano’s Oaxacan roots shine through in every dish. Housed in a colonial mansion with a lovely courtyard, the restaurant offers a daily-changing six-course tasting menu, consistently highlighting the vibrant flavors of regional Mexican cuisine, particularly those of Oaxaca. Signature dishes like traditional tamales, tostadas, moles, and stuffed chiles are given a modern, produce-centric twist and are beautifully paired with a fine selection of Mexican wines, mezcal, and craft beers. [$$$$]

This stylish café offers a bit of everything: third-wave coffee, exquisite pastries, house-made jams, pickles, and a variety of preserves; alongside sourdough pizzas, gourmet toasts, and other bread-based delights crafted by head baker and co-founder Juan Pablo Hernandez. Begin your breakfast or brunch with a croissant or concha, and perhaps enjoy rich shakshuka or a stack of waffles to follow. For lunch, choose from pizzas, salads, and sandwiches. The ambiance is relaxed, with a casual, airy setting that features a cozy bar at the back. The Boulenc team also runs a small nearby hotel called Bed and Bread, plus a shop, Succulenta, where you can purchase many of the pantry treats you savored at the café. [$$]

Nestled on the third floor of Hotel “Casa Abuela Maria” in downtown Oaxaca, this hidden treasure specializes in simple, traditional cuisine from the Isthmus region, located about six hours east of Oaxaca City. Sisters Candy and Miriam Abad established this cozy family Mytoury in 2019, where you can savor fantastic renditions of garnachas (small fried masa discs topped with various ingredients), molotes (stuffed fried masa pockets), and other regional specialties. The rooftop patio boasts stunning views of the city. [$$]

Located right beside La Soledad church, the town square known as Jardin Socrates is cherished by Oaxacans. It's the spot where families celebrate birthdays, graduations, and other milestones, and a popular destination after Sunday mass. While several vendors offer treats here, La Oaxaqueña has been serving nieve for over five generations. Every flavor is delightful, but don’t miss the traditional leche quemada con tuna (burnt milk with prickly pear). [$]

Thalia Barrios Garcia established La Cocina de Humo to immerse diners in the experience of a cocina de humo, a smoky kitchen typical in rural areas like her mountain hometown in Oaxaca. She crafts distinctive dishes using mushrooms, maize, and other traditional ingredients, many sourced from San Mateo Yucutindoô. This informal chef's table has no set courses; instead, dishes are placed in the center for everyone to enjoy together, creating a truly enchanting experience. Reservations for breakfast, lunch, or dinner are required, with a minimum of four guests.

Note: La Cocina de Humo was previously part of Levadura, Garcia's main restaurant, but now they are located a few blocks apart; see the separate listing for Levadura. [$$$]

As the night unfolds in Oaxaca, the mezcal might start to take its toll. It’s at this moment that you should stroll to the corner of Libres and Murguía to find the small cart called El Lechoncito de Oro. The star of the menu is lechon, or roasted suckling pig, served in three delightful forms: tortas, tostadas, and tacos. Choose any option and top it with fillings like lechon paired with chicharrón (crispy fried pork belly) or lechon with pierna (tender pork leg). If you're feeling adventurous, ask for the salsa especial — its secret recipe is known to pack a fiery punch. [$]

Founded in 2006, this Oaxacan coffee mini-chain is dedicated to collaborating exclusively with small, local coffee producers from the Pluma Hidalgo region near Puerto Escondido. The founders have honored their commitment, successfully expanding to five locations throughout Oaxaca City. In addition to superb coffee, Brújula is known for offering perhaps the finest sugar cookies in the city. For a refreshing change, try the Pepe Limón, a fresh lime juice smoothie, or explore the extensive selection of beverages and pastries. [$]

A beloved fixture in downtown Oaxaca, Coronita was established in 1948 by Doña Carmen Valle, who still keeps a watchful eye over the restaurant today. This is one of the finest spots in town to sample the traditional seven moles of Oaxaca, with a special mole tasting flight offered daily. Be sure to try the caldo coronita, a chicken soup featuring a whole chile pasilla for an extra kick. [$$]

Chef Rodolfo Castellanos at Origen has gained fame as a winner of Top Chef Mexico, yet you can find him working at his restaurant nearly every day. If you're fortunate, you might also see his mother, Eve Fuensanta, stirring large pots of black or red mole in the prep kitchen, a task she does a few times a month. Rodolfo inherited his culinary skills from her, and you can taste that legacy in signature dishes like the chichilo mole with beef tongue — the very dish that secured his Top Chef title. [$$$ - $$$$]

Known among locals, this cherished taco cart in downtown Oaxaca is often bustling with patrons. Chefinita, the affectionate name for Josefina, is celebrated for her renowned pozole, available with pork, beef, or both, accompanied by crispy tostadas and guacamole. Also on the menu are savory pork tacos and tostadas, and don’t miss the distinctive purple container housing one of the spiciest salsas in Oaxacan cuisine. Chefinita opens at dusk and stays open until the early morning, making it the perfect spot to wind down after a night of mezcal. [$]

Ulises Torrentera’s extensive mezcal library is the premier destination to taste and discover Oaxaca’s renowned spirit. Ulises can often be found behind the bar, serving samples from his impressive collection of over 180 types of mezcal while sharing the nuances of this Indigenous beverage. This cozy shop and tasting room is conveniently located on the lively Morelos Street, within walking distance from downtown hotels. You can purchase a tasting, buy a bottle, or enjoy a glass a la carte. [$ - $$$]

In every Oaxacan market, you'll find a pasillo de humo, or smoke aisle — a smoky corridor where meats are sold and grilled by the kilo. The most popular pasillo de humo is in the 20 de Noviembre Market, conveniently located near the Zocalo, though it often gets crowded with tourists. Locals prefer the one inside the expansive Abastos Market. At either location, the process is the same: buy some meat from a vendor, and they’ll provide a grill for you to cook it just how you like. Explore the market for garnishes and sides like avocados, green onions, salsas, and fresh tortillas to complete your meal. A tip: grab drinks from nearby nieve (ice cream) stands, and you can use their tables and chairs. [$]

The Casilda family has been running their renowned aguas frescas shop in Mercado Benito Juárez for over a hundred years, offering traditional recipes for horchata and fresh chilacayota juice made from seasonal local squash. Casilda's horchata is enhanced with small pieces of melon and pecans, and you'll often find various combinations like guava, chia, or peach. The most popular flavors tend to sell out by midday, so be sure to visit before noon. [$]

Crispy tlayudas topped with meat are a hallmark of Oaxacan cuisine. While you can find them in restaurants, they are best enjoyed as street food from small carts around the city. Just two blocks from the Zocalo, at the intersection of Bustamante and Mina streets, you'll discover a local gem that serves simple yet delicious tlayudas from dawn, featuring traditional toppings like tasajo (dried beef strips) and pork chorizo. Complement your meal with fresh molcajete salsa and a refreshing chocolate atole or agua fresca to complete your street food experience. [$]

Nestled in the heart of Oaxaca’s Abastos Market is a vibrant blue stand called Memelas Doña Vale. Here, you’ll encounter Vale Pacheco, the renowned Doña Vale, famous for her exquisite memelas that earned her a feature on Netflix's Street Food. Memelas are a beloved Oaxacan dish consisting of small corn tortillas with a pinched edge to hold a variety of toppings. The real stars are the large molcajetes where she crafts two uniquely flavorful salsas: one smoky and dark with chile morita and miltomate (green tomatillo), and another vibrant red made with tomato and green chile. Enjoy a few memelitas with grilled tasajo, comal-cooked eggs, or pork ribs on the side. For beverages, choose between delicious Oaxacan hot chocolate or cafe de olla. [$]

For a taste of authentic Mixteco-style lamb barbacoa, make your way to El Tejupense. Located about 30 minutes from downtown Oaxaca, close to the airport, this humble Mytoury offers unbeatable prices and flavors. Don’t miss the fresh barbacoa served daily, and be sure to try the masita, a delightful dish featuring hard, ground corn topped with lamb and blood sausage. [$$ - $$$]

Jorge León began his culinary journey as a dishwasher at Casa Oaxaca, but his passion led him to Pujol in Mexico City, where he earned the nickname “Moles” for his exceptional skills in creating various Oaxacan mole from scratch. After relocating to New York to work at Cosme, he started sending money home to establish Alfonsina, a cozy family-run restaurant tucked away near Oaxaca City’s airport. Drop by any day, and Elvia (Jorge’s mom) will greet you with fresh tortillas straight from her comal, alongside an array of delicious guisos (stews) made fresh each day. If you prefer, make a reservation, and Jorge will prepare a special five-course meal just for you. Both options promise a remarkable dining experience. There’s no fixed menu at Alfonsina — the dishes are determined by what Jorge finds at the Abastos Market each day. [$$$]

Nestled near Cerro María Sánchez, the sacred mountain in the Ocotlán district of Oaxaca, Almú is a hidden smoke kitchen about 40 minutes from the city center. Set within a copal tree reservoir, this charming spot offers daily homemade meals prepared by local cooks, featuring fresh tortillas, quesadillas, and comal-cooked empanadas; black mole served with rice and chicken; grilled vegetables topped with melted quesillo; and the most delectable salsa de carne frita (pork ribs fried with garlic, accompanied by tomatillo sauce and frijoles de la olla). [$$]

Beatriz Vazquez may don a Frida Kahlo costume, but her true artistry shines in the kitchen — especially when it comes to her mole estofado, regarded as one of the finest in all of Oaxaca. Head to Ocotlán de Morelos, a quaint town about 45 minutes from downtown, and explore the Morelos Market, where she crafts chiles rellenos, her signature mole, and a unique creation she calls the “naked taco,” featuring a grilled chile de agua filled with chicken picadillo, wrapped in a tortilla and cooked over coals. [$]