This Isolated Island Haven Is Among Canada’s Most Extraordinary Getaways

The Dinogo perspective

Established in 2013, Fogo Island Inn is located on a 16-by-9-mile island home to around 2,000 residents off Newfoundland's northeastern coast, right at North America's edge. (Ireland is approximately 2,000 miles to the east.) The inn's stunning modern architecture against the island's rugged coastline has made it a landmark for design-savvy travelers. However, it's the inn's fascinating backstory and purpose that truly elevate this remote escape, part of Relais & Chateaux, into one of the globe’s most captivating retreats.

A common saying in Newfoundland goes: “How do you spot a Newfoundlander in heaven? They’re the ones trying to get back home.” By the mid-1960s, a surge of large-ship international fishing off Canada’s coast significantly reduced the codfish population that Fogo Island (and many other communities) relied on. During this period, the Canadian government proposed resettling all Fogo Island residents, considering it too costly and impractical to provide modern services. While some chose to leave, many others stood firm, determined to carve out their own future.

Zita Cobb, the founder of Shorefast, the nonprofit that owns and operates Fogo Island Inn, has a family history spanning seven generations on Fogo Island, where her ancestors were inshore fishers. Growing up without running water or electricity, Zita remembers when her father moved her and her six brothers to the mainland, urging her to learn about “this money thing.” Having lived off fish credit and barter, he recognized that large boats were overfishing and had found ways to monetize their catches.

Heeding her father’s advice, Zita became the CFO of a fiber optics firm, selling her stake in 2001 to travel the world by sail for four years. She then founded Shorefast to foster economic and cultural sustainability on Fogo Island. Shorefast backs various social enterprises, including Fogo Island Workshops, which crafts the Inn's furniture and textiles; Fogo Island Fish, which hires locals for traditional handline cod fishing; and Fogo Island Arts, a residency program for artists, filmmakers, writers, musicians, curators, designers, and thinkers globally.

The Inn strives to source as much as possible locally and provides an Economic Nutrition label for guests interested in where their money goes (I found one at the front desk). It indicates that 65 percent of guest spending remains on the island, 13 percent goes to other parts of Newfoundland, 19 percent stays within Canada, and 3 percent is sent abroad.

Who is it suited for?

Solo adventurers, couples, and families with children aged 8 and up who are open to a longer journey (more details in “The location” below) will discover rich cultural experiences and rugged coastal scenery teeming with wildlife—including puffins, snowbirds, resident caribou, and migrating whales during summer. This destination may not suit those seeking a quick, hassle-free escape or consistently pleasant weather, which is often unpredictable here.

Enthusiasts of art, architecture, and design will admire the inn’s modernist style, harmonizing with the softer elements of handmade textiles and furniture found throughout the hotel. Culturally inquisitive visitors can connect with communities that remained isolated from the mid-1700s until the late 1960s, particularly the Irish community in Tilting, located six miles east of the inn. Fogo Island offers a unique look at a community that has thrived off the land for centuries, fostering a deep bond with their environment and each other.

Fogo Island Inn requires a minimum stay of three nights; after my three-night visit, I felt it was too brief. I suggest at least four nights to fully immerse yourself in the experience, allowing for three complete days to truly appreciate the place.

The destination

Reaching Fogo Island is quite a challenge. First, fly to Gander (there are no direct flights from the United States), then drive for an hour, take a 45-minute ferry, and finally, drive another 15 minutes to the Inn. Additionally, travel to the island can be affected by weather conditions at nearly any time of the year, as it is located in a rugged area with a temperate maritime climate at the northeastern tip of the continent.

As of June 3 of this year, Fogo Island Inn has introduced a new helicopter service utilizing the island's small private airport. This helicopter can be used for transfers from Gander Airport, bypassing an hour-long drive and a 45-minute ferry ride, at a cost of US$2,820 per trip, plus tax, as well as for day excursions. The inn offers a variety of activities, six of which involve the helicopter. The most distant adventure is a day trip for hiking in the stunning Gros Morne National Park, located 165 miles away and accessible via an 80-minute chopper ride from Fogo. The park boasts Newfoundland's second-highest peak (2,644 feet), Arctic alpine wilderness, glacial fjords, and the distinctive red-and-orange rock formations of the Tablelands.

Those looking to delve deeper into Newfoundland and Labrador can seamlessly include a visit to Fogo Island Inn as part of a larger regional adventure. Stan Cook, a lifelong Newfoundlander and board member of Destination Canada, has been leading tourists to Newfoundland through his company, Rock + Water, for over 25 years. He offers itineraries ranging from two to nine days, accommodating various adventure levels and catering to upscale travelers. He collaborates with Fogo Island Inn, providing guiding services for several day trips, including excursions to Gros Morne.

Meanwhile, Entrée Destinations has been curating luxury travel experiences across Canada for over 25 years. Owner Marc Telio has recently collaborated with Destination Canada to craft trips that span every province and territory, creating stunning videos for each. His video on Newfoundland and Labrador is particularly noteworthy, featuring about half its footage from Fogo Island.

Accommodations

The Inn boasts 29 rooms, each offering breathtaking ocean views. Among these, thirteen standard Labrador rooms, measuring 343 square feet, are situated on the first three floors. Every room features ocean vistas, walk-in showers, rich textures, and contemporary design. Many of the furnishings and textiles—such as cushioned rocking chairs and vibrant quilts—are the result of collaborations between local artisans and international designers, creating a beautifully textured interior that blends traditional and modern styles. I had the pleasure of staying in one of nine 412-square-foot Newfoundland rooms, which, in addition to the features found in the Labrador rooms, include cozy wood-burning stoves.

Additionally, there are seven suites available, including the magnificent 1,100-square-foot, two-story Flat Earth Suite, which boasts views to the east, north, and south, accommodating up to three guests.

The starting rate for a standard Labrador room is US$2,110 per night, plus tax (prices vary by season and are expected to rise in 2025). This rate includes all meals for two guests and various amenities provided by the inn, such as guides, outerwear, equipment, and on-island transportation (including a car, if desired). Alcoholic beverages are not included. Solo travelers benefit from a US$220 discount on the room rate.

Culinary offerings and beverages

Chef Timothy Charles emphasizes local sourcing, with 80 percent of the ingredients coming from Fogo Island and its nearby areas. The Inn features a garden and a grass-topped root cellar. Menus evolve not just seasonally but also daily, offering three entrée options at lunch and dinner: one meat, one seafood, and one vegetarian. The cod dish stood out to me, while my vegetarian companion was thrilled with the options, including locally harvested sunchokes baked with cheese and leeks, which even some meat-eaters chose.

Wine enthusiasts will enjoy the expertise of sommelier Scott Cowan, who curates a distinctive selection of wines from Canada, Portugal, Spain, and France—traditional trading partners of the island. Additionally, head bartender Ryan Simpson infuses local flair into cocktails at the bar. I highly recommend the Fogo Island Inn's take on the Caesar, a Canadian classic (similar to a Bloody Mary but with Clamato), featuring Fogo Island buckhorn hot sauce, a locally baked cracker instead of salt on the rim, and a crab leg replacing the usual celery stick.

One evening, we enjoyed a crab feast in the Shed, an outdoor dining area separate from the main building. Despite its name, it’s a contemporary space with large windows and sea views, simply adorned with kerosene lamps and a communal table. The meal featured salads, vegetables, cod au gratin, and local mussels served family-style, accompanied by a guitarist who played throughout the night. The highlight was the local Wild Snow Crab, boiled in seawater, which, along with shrimp and turbot, has become a staple after the decline of cod stocks. The crab was so delicious that it didn’t need butter or lemon.

For lunch, don’t miss the Storehouse, a restaurant located half a mile from the inn, also supported by Shorefast. It’s designed as a community hub, and I enjoyed the fish (cod) and chips, pleasantly surprised to discover that dining here is included in the room rate.

Staff and Service

Zita has assembled a dedicated and welcoming team, led by Managing Director Amanda Decker-Penton. Amanda transitioned from a nursing career in rural Alberta to return to Fogo Island just before the inn opened in 2012. She embodies Shorefast’s mission: to create fulfilling job opportunities that enable current-generation Fogo Islanders to either stay or return home. Amanda resides with her husband and daughter just down the road from the inn, with her parents nearby and her sister, brother, and their families living next door.

Lorie Penton, the lead outdoor activity guide at the inn, was also raised just down the road and is excited to show visitors around the island. She guided us through the area surrounding Oliver’s Cove and seemed to know every plant, animal, and rock we encountered. Lorie is a passionate runner who doesn’t let weather deter her, and she forages for botanicals to create medicinal remedies and flavorful teas.

Clem Dwyer, a retired schoolteacher, now works part-time as a guide and driver for the Inn. He joined us during our visit and shared local tales while we hiked Oliver’s Cove, explored Brimstone Head, and visited Phil’s shed in Tilting at night. Newfoundland has a tradition of kitchen parties, where people gather around the stove to play music, enjoy drinks, tell stories, sing, and dance. Many hosts have constructed sheds in their backyards as a larger gathering space.

Phil and Maureen Foley have been welcoming visitors in their shed since the Inn opened. When the Inn was under construction, Shorefast brought in a team of tradesmen from Ireland who often celebrated Saturday nights at Phil’s shed. During our visit, Phil’s brother Martin, another retired schoolteacher, entertained us with songs, while Clem shared stories, and we all danced to accordion music. Being of Irish descent, I even attempted to sing one of my father’s old songs. It was fantastic fun.

Accessibility

Fogo Island is a rugged destination that can be challenging to visit and navigate. However, the main building and all other structures on the property are wheelchair accessible at ground level. There is one standard room (Labrador) and one suite (Fogo Island Sunset) that feature wheelchair-accessible bathrooms. All rooms can be reached via elevator. Note that there are no braille or similar accessibility enhancements available.

Pursuing wholeness rather than mere wellness

I asked Zita if Fogo Island Inn was aligned with the wellness trend currently sweeping the hospitality sector. She responded, “If I start talking about wellness, then it’s time for me to step away!” She believes the commercial industry offers products that create our distress, only to then market “wellness” as a superficial solution that doesn’t address the root causes.

“Time spent on small islands allows us to feel a glimpse of wholeness—perhaps because these islands are complete in themselves,” she remarked. “When people speak of wellness, maybe they are truly seeking wholeness.”

For centuries, Fogo Island existed in isolation. There are 10 communities on the island, which rarely interacted with each other or outsiders before the 1960s. The vibrant Irish culture endures on Fogo, with some families tracing their roots back to the mid-1700s. I encountered many accents on the island as thick as those in Ireland, a fascinating realization considering how long ago their ancestors settled in Newfoundland. This isolation is shifting due to easier travel and modern technology, yet the locals are committed to preserving their way of life, deeply connected to their land and history.

This reflects the “wholeness” that Zita describes. The people of Fogo Island possess a profound sense of topophilia, a deep emotional bond with their home that includes a shared identity and love for the place. When Zita introduced the idea of establishing an inn on the island, one of the responses was, “How big should the inn be? We can only love so many people at once.” Thus, the Inn consists of only 29 rooms.

Today, Fogo Island Inn remains the sole inn on the island, providing a unique sense of intimacy for visitors seeking a meaningful connection to the land. Starting at $2,110