The breathtaking 30-hour train journey that sells out in an instant

While Turkey is home to the world-renowned Orient Express, another iconic train ride – the Dogu Express – is putting the country on the map as a top rail destination.

Originally a commuter train running from Ankara to Kars, the Dogu Express has recently gone viral among Turkish influencers, who are drawn to its breathtaking vistas of eastern Turkey and hidden gems off the beaten path.

Travel influencer Berry Romo, who has spent over a decade in Turkey, points out, 'While the train was popular with locals and Turkish travelers, it was relatively unknown to international tourists.'

To meet rising demand, the commuter train was transformed into a tourist attraction in 2019. This 30-plus-hour overnight journey now departs from the bustling city of Ankara, heading to the snowy landscapes of Kars, covering a distance of 1,310 kilometers (814 miles), with stops offering city tours along the way.

Securing tickets for the Dogu Express can be a challenge, with many passengers reporting that they sell out in mere minutes.

Romo shares a tip: 'The key is to visit the website exactly at midnight and buy as soon as the page refreshes.'

Turkish travel agencies often buy up large blocks of tickets, which they then resell as part of organized tours, ensuring their clients have seats. This practice is one reason tickets disappear so quickly. For the few lucky individuals who manage to buy them, tickets are available only a month in advance, making them highly sought-after.

Leaving the hustle and bustle of the capital behind, Ankara offers a unique experience.

While it may not have the same glamorous reputation as Istanbul, Ankara – the heart of Turkey’s political life – is a destination well worth exploring on its own.

A must-visit site in Ankara is the Ataturk Mausoleum, the final resting place of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founding father of modern Turkey.

The mausoleum complex is divided into four distinct areas. Key attractions include Peace Park, featuring a Turkish flag made from pebbles surrounded by a colorful flowerbed, and the Ceremonial Plaza leading to the Hall of Honor, where Atatürk’s tomb is located.

Despite its rapid growth following its designation as the capital in 1923, Ankara still retains traces of its historical charm, particularly in its older neighborhoods.

Ulus, the historic heart of the city, is home to Roman ruins, ancient passageways, and an old castle perched on a hill, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

At the core of Ulus lies Sanat Sokağı, or Arts Street, a charming stretch of Ottoman houses that have been beautifully restored and transformed into cafes. This street leads to open-air courtyards where vendors offer handmade crafts and Ottoman-era treasures.

For a taste of modern culture, visit CemModern, a contemporary art gallery housed in a renovated railway station. This venue hosts a variety of cultural events, from film screenings to group yoga classes and creative design markets.

‘A breathtaking expanse’

The Dogu Express departs in the early evening, and as it pulls away from Ankara's art deco railway station, the view shifts from the city’s sprawling skyline to the vast, unspoiled landscapes beyond.

The sleeper cabins feature two single bunk beds, which can be converted into seats during the day, along with a mini-fridge and a sink. Many travelers add their personal touch by decorating their compartments with string lights, scarves, and candles.

As Romo puts it, it’s “a fantastic way to enjoy a stunning landscape in a comfortable and cozy setting.”

By early morning, the train reaches Ilic, a small village renowned for its proximity to Karanalik, or Dark Canyon. This dramatic canyon is home to the impressive Stone Road, a narrow path that hugs the canyon walls, winding through tunnels and navigating sharp, thrilling turns.

Despite its reputation for danger, the route continues to attract travelers with its jaw-dropping views. Towering cliffs, deep gorges, and the Euphrates River winding beneath make for a dramatic and unforgettable sight.

The train then heads deeper into Anatolia, moving towards its eastern heartland. Netta Kalpan, originally from Minnesota and accustomed to the harsh winters of Trabzon on the Black Sea coast, admits she had no idea how vast, flat, and cold Turkey could be until she experienced the train ride.

However, she finds the scenery to be “breathtaking, mostly due to its immense openness.”

"I kept trying to film through the windows," she says, "but I just couldn’t seem to capture the full experience of seeing it all in person."

The last stop on the journey.

As night falls, the train reaches Erzurum. Romo recalls her visit to the city as "undoubtedly one of the most remarkable experiences" she’s had in Turkey, praising its rich "history, culture, and exceptional cuisine."

Erzurum is renowned for its diverse local cuisine, with the most famous dish being Cag Kebab. Lamb is marinated for 12 hours in a blend of onions, salt, and pepper, then skewered and cooked over a wood fire before being served wrapped in soft flatbread or eaten directly from the skewer.

After passing through Erzurum, there are only a few hours left on the Dogu Express before it reaches its final destination, Kars.

Known for its picturesque winter landscapes, Kars derives its name from the Turkish word for snow. The city's architecture, a remnant of its time under the Russian Empire, is also a point of distinction.

Ummu Altunas, a lawyer from Istanbul, compares visiting Turkey’s eastern region to entering a completely "different country" compared to the more Europeanized west. She attributes this difference to the region’s diverse cultures, including Kurdish, Armenian, and Assyrian communities.

The ancient city of Ani, once the capital of the Kingdom of Armenia, offers a glimpse into the past. Just a short drive from Kars, its stunning 1,600-year-old ruins, including towering walls and well-preserved churches, sit dramatically overlooking a deep ravine, inviting visitors on a journey through time.

While Turkey’s eastern regions attract fewer tourists, the locals are often eager to share their warm and welcoming Turkish hospitality with visitors.

Kaplan shares that one of the reasons she loved living in eastern Turkey was because it felt rewarding to be surrounded by people who take pride in their roots.

She clarifies that she isn’t dismissing Istanbul, noting, “It’s easy to take pride in a city universally admired as one of the world’s most magnificent places.”

But to truly appreciate a place less explored by tourists?

“Now that feels unique.”