The Caribbean’s Longest Hiking Trail Has a Stunning Sister Trail by the Sea — and I Explored It by Kayak

Dominica’s 115-mile national hiking trail, inaugurated over a decade ago, weaves through the island’s mountains, showcasing sulfur springs and breathtaking waterfalls. A new sea-kayaking trail has been developed to complement its land-based counterpart. Both trails share the same name: Waitukubuli, bestowed by the island's first inhabitants, the Kalinago. 

“We aimed to pay tribute to the original paddlers when we established the trail,” said Wes Moses, owner of the watersports agency Soufrière Outdoor Centre and founder of the Waitukubuli Sea Trail, which officially debuted in January 2023. The marine trail comprises 14 segments spanning 32 nautical miles from Scott’s Head in the southwest to Capuchin in the north. The route can be navigated in six days from south to north, featuring some of the island’s iconic sights, such as the bubbly Champagne Beach, where volcanic gases create small bubbles on the seafloor. Even a two-day paddle reveals breathtaking views. Last spring, I accompanied Moses on an overnight expedition to conquer the trail’s last two segments. 

Batalie Beach to Portsmouth

We set off early from Batalie Beach, where we had stayed overnight at Sunset Bay Club Beach Resort. It could have been the lime punch and spiced rum we enjoyed with the hotel owner the night before, but my initial moments of paddling felt exceptionally challenging. Fortunately, we proceeded at a leisurely pace, staying close to the tranquil shore and pausing for a swim near the villages of Colihaut and Dublanc. 

Beyond Dublanc, we encountered miles of untouched coastline. I looked for fish gliding above the surface and examined sea sponges on the ocean floor. However, the highlight was catching sight of Morne Diablotins, Dominica’s tallest peak. The 4,747-foot mountain truly embodied the meaning of waitukubuli, which translates to “tall is her body.” 

After snorkeling near an arched rock formation at Secret Beach, we arrived in Portsmouth and checked into Picard Bay Cottages, a peaceful spot featuring 18 beachfront cabins. Before turning in for the night, Moses recommended we stroll down the street to enjoy lamb wraps at Kenan Shawarma King.

Portsmouth to Capuchin

After a relatively easy first outing, I experienced true ocean kayaking on our second day. Moses informed me that we had two open-water crossings before reaching the trail’s conclusion at Capuchin (sticking to the shoreline was an option, but would take considerably longer). The calm waters quickly transformed into challenging whitecaps as we crossed Prince Rupert Bay. I pushed through, concentrating on every stroke of my paddle. 

We made our way to the Cabrits National Park peninsula. Upon arrival, we enjoyed a brief, sheltered break from the wind and waves before embarking on our next ambitious crossing of Douglas Bay. We paddled over Split Rock — a breathtaking underwater crack that’s a favored diving spot — and past towering cliffs, then veered inland to the serene oasis of Toucari Bay. Exhausted, I had lunch at Keepin It Real, followed by a quick swim and some relaxation on the beach.

Departing from Toucari, the final hour on the water was remarkable. As we approached, the northern tip of Capuchin emerged from the sea like a palm-fringed spire. Moses informed me that this was where the Caribbean Sea meets the channel between Dominica and its northern neighbor, Guadeloupe. Upon arriving at Capuchin, we toasted our journey with ice-cold Carib beer at a roadside bar, then ventured to a nearby park to admire the island’s rugged tip from below. Gazing down at the water from where we had come, I felt salty, sore, and exhilarated.