The Comprehensive Guide to Japanese Cuisine in Hawai‘i

For every dining preference, occasion, and budget, Honolulu offers the ideal Japanese dining experience. With a substantial Japanese immigrant population and a steady stream of Japanese tourists and expatriates, few places outside Japan boast such a diverse array of Japanese restaurants.

Looking to experience a vintage Japanese deli? Or explore innovative Japanese chains, some of which might be unique to the U.S.? Sample hearty Okinawan dishes, or indulge in a lavish sushi omakase? In Honolulu, a historic mochi shop and a premium Kyushu yakitori chain can cater to the same patrons, often on the same day.

Okazuya

Okazuya are culinary relics, commonly found in historic neighborhoods where early 20th-century families settled after leaving the sugar and pineapple plantations. Similar to delis, these quaint spots offer traditional dishes displayed behind glass. Begin by selecting a starch — usually musubi (rice balls), cone sushi, or chow fun noodles — and then choose your desired items to create a custom plate lunch. The key is to combine salty, sweet, meaty, starchy, and tangy flavors, such as shoyu pork, sweet potato tempura, pickled cucumber slices (namasu), and creamy potato-macaroni salad.

Notable dishes at Mō‘ili‘ili’s Fukuya Delicatessen feature mochiko chicken, fried whole akule (a small coastal fish), a variety of tempura, and pickled daikon. Nuuanu Okazuya near downtown Honolulu is celebrated for its homemade fried fishcake and andagi (Okinawan fried doughnuts). Okazuya are most popular in the early morning and around lunch, closing by early afternoon.

Saimin stands

In the 1940s and ’50s, O‘ahu teens flocked to Japanese saimin stands for bowls of steaming noodle soup. Today, these spots are rare. While there might be debate over whether saimin is Japanese or Chinese, its origins on the plantations — where workers’ diverse lunch boxes contributed to Hawai‘i’s mixed plate lunches — make it a local staple. The straightforward dish of wheat noodles, clear broth (often made with dried shrimp and pork or beef bones), green onions, and kamaboko fishcake holds a special place in locals' hearts.

For a historic flavor, visit Shige’s Saimin Stand in Wahiawā or Palace Saimin in Kalihi, always accompanied by a teriyaki beef stick on the side, or try Zippy’s lavish Zip Min, packed with shrimp tempura, char siu, and wonton.

Mochi Shops

In the early days, Japanese immigrants marked every occasion with gifts of mochi — from weddings to graduations and New Year’s temple visits. While these soft, chewy treats remain a cherished gift, especially during Girls’ Day on March 3, they're also popular for quick snacks.

Honolulu’s classic mochi shops are both located in Kalihi. Nisshodo Candy Store, established in the early 20th century, is renowned from Japan to the West Coast for its milky, pillowy-soft chichi dango, a sweet mochi so beloved that a dedicated employee wraps each piece individually. Across Kapālama Canal, Fujiya offers traditional red-bean mochi as well as local-style varieties filled with peanut butter, fresh strawberries, and other fruits. Both shops operate like okazuya — you point and order. Regulars have their go-to orders, like “Half-pound chichi dango and two each of peanut butter, coconut, and red-bean mochi. Gift box, please.” First-timers should ask about the popular choices or sample a bit of everything.

Okinawan Restaurants

Though Okinawa is part of Japan, its cultural and culinary identity stands apart. The Ryukyu Kingdom was an independent realm until Japan annexed it in 1879. Afterward, many Okinawan laborers came to work on Hawai‘i’s plantations. Their descendants now represent the largest Okinawan community outside Okinawa, a vibrant influence evident in Honolulu’s food scene.

Modest, working-class Okinawan Mytouries offer classic dishes like shoyu-braised pork belly rafute, pig’s feet soup, robust bowls of soki soba topped with slow-cooked pork and pickled red ginger, and champuru stir-fries featuring bitter melon, tofu, eggs, and meat. Among the top spots are Kalihi’s Utage and Sunrise on Kapahulu Avenue. Ethel’s Grill, located in a simple cinderblock building near the docks, blends old and new, Japanese and Okinawan, with unique offerings like O‘ahu’s own version of the U.S. military-inspired taco rice.

The ’70s-era one-stop shops

In the past, before the rise of izakayas and specialized dining spots, Japanese cuisine was mostly found at teishoku restaurants. These establishments served complete meals with tempura, miso butterfish, and teriyaki chicken in elegant bento boxes, accompanied by side dishes, miso soup, and rice. While many of these places are now quaint and unassuming, some excel in their offerings. They provide a reliable selection of favorite Japanese dishes and the convenience of a full meal without the need to continually decide on individual items.

Rokkaku Hamakatsu at Ala Moana Center offers a sophisticated experience with a refined sake selection. Nearby, Shokudo attracts younger patrons with its bento sets, inventive pūpūs like sushi pizza and foot-long chicken katsu, and its renowned honey toast dessert. In Waikīkī, Restaurant Suntory (currently closed for renovation and set to reopen in late November) is famed for its shabu shabu and sukiyaki teishoku, prepared right at the table.

Izakaya

Just a few years ago, finding an izakaya in Honolulu was a challenge; today, these casual gastropubs are everywhere. The influx of new izakayas from Japan, combined with the growing trend of small-plate dining and local food enthusiasts traveling to Japan, has led to their surge in popularity. Izakayas are now a staple for both locals and Japanese expats alike.

In contrast to Japan, many Hawaiian izakayas feature sushi bars. A standout is Sushi Izakaya Gaku near Ala Moana Center, known for its spicy hamachi tartare, mixed with a raw quail egg and served on crispy nori, and the bold yokubari chazuke rice dish. Close to Waikīkī, Gazen offers a transformative experience with its silky house-made tofu in a smoky dashi-infused soymilk broth. Nonbei, located off Kapahulu Avenue, is a classic spot where you should try the tempura-fried flounder, with its crispy bones perfect for dipping in spicy ponzu like chips.

Ramen

Honolulu’s ramen scene has exploded, surpassing even the number of saimin stands. Two prominent local chains are Agu, featuring an Okinawan chef’s rich tonkotsu bowl topped with rafute pork belly, a creamy parmesan kotteri ramen, and a zesty yuzu pepper chicken ramen, and Gomatei, renowned for its spicy, sesame-laden tan tan ramen with thick, tender char siu. From Japan, Golden Pork from Kyushu specializes in tonkotsu, while Hokkaido Ramen Santouka, inspired by the iconic ramen film Tampopo, offers excellent ramen options. Both are highly recommended.

Udon

If ramen is the dazzling rock star of the noodle world, udon is the humble homebody. Udon remains true to its roots with no flashy additions—just hearty, chewy noodles in a steaming soy-dashi broth or served cold with a variety of toppings. It's the ultimate comfort food.

The debut of Japan’s Marukame just before the ramen craze took off was a game-changer. The lines on Kūhiō Avenue stretch endlessly but move swiftly. At this cafeteria-style Mytoury, you select your tray, decide between hot or cold options, bowl size, and toppings, while fresh noodles are prepared behind a glass barrier. Over in Mō‘ili‘ili, Jimbo handcrafts its noodles. The nabeyaki udon, served in a cast-iron bowl with shrimp tempura and egg roll, or the chilled ume-wakame udon, with perfectly cooked noodles and a mix of seaweed and tangy pickled plum, are must-tries.

Sushi

Sushi is everywhere in this city: from conveyor belt joints and neighborhood takeout spots to supermarket grab-and-go sections. There are also upscale sushi sanctuaries offering omakase crafted by Michelin-starred Japanese chefs. With so many Japanese restaurants and izakayas featuring sushi counters, you'll either be overwhelmed with options or struggle to make a choice.

To get started, try Waikīkī’s Sushi Sho, where the sous chef, boasting two Michelin stars, serves a $300 omakase crafted by Japan’s top Edomae sushi master. Despite Keiji Nakazawa’s polite dismissal of a Michelin reviewer, he remains a favorite among Japanese fans who book months in advance. Maru Sushi on Kalākaua is the latest venture of Takeshi Kawasaki, known for his Michelin-starred Hokkaido sushi, now run by his son.

For a more budget-friendly but still stellar experience, Sushi ii and Sushi Murayama offer casual omakase in the $75-$100 range and are local favorites. On the North Shore, Banzai Sushi Bar is a hidden gem tucked away in a strip mall; the Maui Wowie roll, featuring fresh ahi, avocado, mango, and shiso wrapped in delicate yuba, is worth the trip to Hale‘iwa.

Tonkatsu

Honolulu’s journey with tonkatsu has been relatively recent. Initially, there were no dedicated spots for crispy, panko-breaded pork cutlets. This changed a decade ago with Bairin, a renowned 90-year-old Ginza institution whose Waikīkī branch brought this Japanese classic into the spotlight. Especially noteworthy is the $36 kurobuta pork loin katsu, favored by former Iron Chef Japanese Masaharu Morimoto as highlighted here.

Since February, a new player has entered the ring: Tonkatsu Tamafuji in Kapahulu. This Hokkaido transplant takes tonkatsu seriously, aging the pork for two weeks (unfrozen) to ensure peak flavor and tenderness. Even the panko breadcrumbs, sourced from La Tour Café across town, are meticulously aged for four days.

Yakitori

In the Year of the Rooster, Honolulu saw a surge in yakitori options with three new spots opening in 2017. All three are Japanese imports: Yakitori Glad on Kapahulu, where everything, including pairs of skewers, is priced at $3.90; Tori Ton in Mō‘ili‘ili, where single skewers go for $1.90; and Hachibei in Chinatown, the state’s premier upscale yakitori counter (don’t miss the bacon-and-egg skewers and the grilled beef sukiyaki skewers, served with a fresh raw egg for dipping).

Musubi

Musubi have evolved dramatically over time. Once humble rice balls made at home — simple white rice formed into triangles and wrapped in nori with a pickled umeboshi plum — musubi have become a popular treat. Now, locals and visitors alike flock to Iyasume, a small chain that began as a modest Waikīkī Mytoury, for freshly made musubi, including flavors like sea salt, miso salmon, and curry mayo tuna, plus 17 varieties of Spam musubi. Shichi Musubi, a recent addition to Waikiki Yokocho, offers choices such as tuna-mayo, grilled eel, and soy-simmered beef musubi, all available with organic white, brown, or red rice.

Among the most iconic and often misunderstood of Hawai‘i-Japanese dishes is Spam musubi. Born during World War II when Spam was introduced to Hawai‘i, it quickly became a local staple. Fried Spam served with rice, wrapped in nori, became a portable favorite at picnics, football games, and church events. Its popularity is so immense that the Spam Jam festival attracts 20,000 attendees each April, and Japanese tourists even bring Spam musubi kits back to Japan.

To taste Spam musubi like a local, visit a 7-Eleven. This convenience store chain offers a variety of Spam musubi, which are surprisingly tasty and make excellent travel snacks. For a more upscale version, head to James Beard-nominated MW Restaurant near Ala Moana Center between 2 and 5 p.m., where you can enjoy a refined mochi-crusted Spam musubi with smoked pork and arabiki sausage, topped with quail eggs, available on their $5 small plates menu.

Matcha

Locals are fervently devoted to matcha — not only for its beloved taste but also for the variety of chilled, sweet versions available in this tropical haven. Japanese soft-serve imports, such as those from Matcha Café Maiko on Kūhiō Avenue, offer matcha parfaits, floats, and lattes. Nearby in Waikiki Yokocho, Nana’s Green Tea serves a luscious matcha warabi mochi parfait with corn flakes and wobbly mochi squares. The finest Matcha Old Fashioned can be savored in the lobby of a downtown office tower at Bar Leather Apron.

Food halls

To fully experience modern Japanese cuisine in Honolulu, visiting a food hall is essential. At Ala Moana Center, Shirokiya’s Japan Village Walk is a vast labyrinth featuring nearly thirty food stalls and five beer gardens. You’ll encounter an endless array of options: ramen, gyoza, Japanese dessert crepes, bento, yakitori, takoyaki octopus dumplings, croquettes, beer, and more. The experience feels like an endless, immersive dream — whether that's a delight or a challenge is up to you.

In contrast, Waikiki Yokocho presents a more refined food hall experience with its 15 dining options. This upscale venue comprises distinct restaurants along cozy alleys, many being the first U.S. branches of Japanese chains. Highlights include Kaneko Hannosuke from Nihoni, known for its long waits for the renowned tempura bowl, Baikohken ramen, which is listed in Michelin’s Hokkaido guide, and Tsujita ramen, praised for its tonkotsu and tsukemen, with its Los Angeles branch celebrated as a top ramen spot.

It’s somewhat ironic to find two Japanese food halls in one U.S. city. The original Japanese immigrants came to the islands drawn by sugarcane, which has since disappeared. What they inadvertently left behind, however, is a far more lasting and delectable legacy.

Mari Taketa covers the Hawaii food scene and serves as the editor for Frolic Hawaii.