The elusive ‘eagle’s nest’ city that even Alexander the Great couldn’t conquer

Although Alexander the Great attempted to conquer Termessos, he was unsuccessful. Today, the abandoned ruins of this once-mighty city, perched like a fortress high in southwestern Turkey’s mountains, await those brave enough to make the trek.

Yet, few ever take the journey.

Termessos lies in solitude. A breathtaking archaeological treasure, kept intact in its isolation, visited only by a small number of adventurers who venture out from the tourist-packed beaches of nearby Antalya.

It's a missed opportunity for those who never make the trip. For those who do, however, it’s a rare treat—an opportunity to explore one of Turkey’s most awe-inspiring ancient cities in complete peace.

A place of remarkable atmosphere: a blend of history and nature, stunning views and stillness, beauty and decay—together forming one of the Mediterranean’s most overlooked archaeological gems.

Here, slowly overtaken by nature and eroded by time, stand towering mausoleums, vast underground cisterns, grand temples, formidable city walls, and an awe-inspiring theater, perched on a hilltop much like Machu Picchu, offering sweeping views for miles.

Despite its desolation, Termessos is surprisingly accessible. A short 45-minute drive from the busy heart of Antalya takes you to the entrance of Mount Güllük-Termessos National Park, a sanctuary that encircles the ancient site.

Eventually, the road opens into what appears to be a mundane parking area with a public restroom. In reality, this was once a bustling agora, or marketplace, where traders and locals filled the streets 2,000 years ago.

This is where the journey through Termessos begins.

And it all starts with death.

Grave robbers

At one end of the agora, partially obscured by vegetation, lie the stone fragments of what was once a grand avenue descending the hillside. Instead of shops or homes, this street was flanked by the tombs of Termessos' wealthy and powerful elite.

Ancient sarcophagi, adorned with symbols hinting at their occupants—such as shields and spears for warriors—are scattered across the landscape. Some are small, while others are massive, offering glimpses into the wealth or status of those entombed within. Some remain unfinished, their monumental pedestals suggesting the grandeur that was never completed.

Centuries of tomb raiding have left their mark: the sarcophagi have been broken open, their lids pried off, and walls shattered, despite once being sealed with metal clasps. Tree roots and ivy now weave their way through the stone, further eroding the structures.

“The thieves who looted these tombs were highly skilled,” says Önder Uğuz, an art teacher from Antalya and licensed guide who’s been fascinated by Termessos since first visiting as a student in 1996. “It was love at first sight!”

To reach the heart of this ancient city, visitors must embark on an uphill trek along a rugged path that can be steep and challenging in places. Sturdy shoes are a must, as is the ability to navigate some demanding terrain. In the summer, it’s advisable to start early to avoid the heat, and don't forget to bring water.

Soon, the imposing lower city walls come into view—a clear indication of how well-defended Termessos was when it was first established, possibly as early as the fourth or fifth century BCE, long before the Romans arrived with their world-shaping engineering expertise.

This raises an interesting question: how did the people of Termessos manage it?

Uğuz dismisses the idea of any mystery. In his view, we’re too enamored with our modern technological achievements to truly appreciate the practical skills of our distant ancestors.

“You and I, we’re nothing without our gadgets and social media profiles,” he says (right after posting a photo to his own Instagram). “Take all that away, and we’re helpless. But these people? They worked with stone for generations. It was their craft, their knowledge. This is what they did.”

The people of Termessos were called the Solyms, descendants of the Luwians, an ancient civilization once widespread across what is now Turkey. Despite their significance, the Solyms were largely overlooked by archaeologists until recent years. To this day, little is known about them or the origins of their city.

But one thing is clear: they were masterful planners. Their choice of location demonstrates remarkable strategic insight. Situated along a major trade route, the city thrived on commerce, and its high altitude and panoramic views made it an ideal, defensible stronghold.

This explains why, when Alexander the Great arrived around 333 BCE—marking Termessos’ first recorded mention in history—he was reportedly unable to conquer or even blockade the city into submission, despite repeated attempts. He famously referred to it as an ‘eagle’s nest.’

Later, the Romans found greater success in gaining control of the city. But not through brute force, Uğuz explains—instead, they used more subtle tactics, offering the city autonomy under the guise of Roman 'protection.' 'The Romans were like the mafia,' he says.

Combat school

As you climb higher up the rocky hillside, surrounded by fragrant wild sage, the evidence of Termessos' once-refined way of life becomes more apparent. To the left stands the marble remains of the city’s gymnasium—a training ground for soldiers, complete with a bathhouse and refectory, much like a college campus.

Some of the building still stands, with traces of impressive arches that once graced its front. Inside, there were two floors and a subterranean vault for storage. In front lies the palaestra, an open space once used for wrestling and combat practice, now scattered with fragments of terracotta roof tiles from the gymnasium.

Naturally, the site is mostly in ruins. Termessos is thought to have been destroyed by an earthquake—though the exact date is unclear, it likely occurred in the 4th or 5th century. What remains is untouched by modern reconstruction; it's the authentic state of the building, left as it was for over 1,600 years.

Here, the stillness and desolation of the place stir the imagination, bringing the ancient warriors back to life and allowing you to envision their training and mock battles in a setting that has remained remarkably unchanged over the centuries.

Further up the hill, the upper city walls offer commanding views of the forest below and an excellent vantage point for spotting anyone attempting a sneak attack. Beyond them, more evidence of the once-thriving civilization awaits.

The remains of a covered water drainage system still stand. For a city with few natural water sources, these features were vital. Among them, massive underground cisterns, hewn from solid rock and plastered for durability, stand as one of the city’s greatest engineering feats.

These cisterns, capable of holding up to 1,500 tons of water, would have been crucial for the city’s survival, especially during times of siege, such as when Alexander the Great attempted to blockade it. Today, they’re filled with shattered columns and debris, possibly dumped there when the city was abandoned. There’s speculation that water shortages may have played a role in the decision to eventually relocate the city.

High-end shops

Nearby stands the imposing outer wall of the bouleuterion, or assembly hall, which once served as the city’s political center. This area also includes another central agora from pre-Roman times, and the remnants of a colonnaded street that would have housed the city’s most prestigious shops.

“This is the Champs-Élysées of Termessos,” Uğuz says. Much like the famous Parisian avenue lined with luxury stores, this was where the city's elite would have come to spend their wealth. The finest olive oils, textiles, leather goods, and imported treasures from across the Mediterranean would have been on display here.

But all these elements are mere distractions compared to the city’s crowning jewel: the theater.

After scrambling over massive slabs of marble, the view opens up to reveal the expansive performance area, perched at the highest point of the city.

The scenery is breathtaking, with deep mountain ravines plunging away on either side. The steep drop behind the theater’s upper walls is dizzying—a stark reminder to be cautious when exploring ruins that lack modern safety barriers.

The theater, which could seat around 4,000 people, features a semi-circular arrangement of stone terraces facing the ruins of what would have once been a grand stage. While the theater likely predates Roman influence, it was later renovated in the Roman style.

In Termessos, the location holds special significance, sitting across from a mountain that was once revered by the city’s people. It’s easy to understand why this spot was considered sacred, offering panoramic views that, on clear days, extend all the way to the port of Antalya.

Once again, it’s a place to sit and let your imagination roam back nearly 2,000 years, to when such theaters were used by the Romans as a form of propaganda—an indirect tool to maintain control over their empire, according to Uğuz.

As history lessons go, this one is truly awe-inspiring.

Uğuz (who can be reached at [email protected]) says he never grows tired of visiting Termessos. While he also guides tours at more well-known archaeological sites in the area, it’s the peace and beauty of this hidden gem that keeps him coming back. He particularly enjoys soaking in the views from the upper city walls.

“I usually sit there with my wife, under a juniper tree in the spring, with a clear blue sky and stunning scenery,” he says. He adds that the solitude offered by Termessos is a draw year-round.

“For me, it’s ideal. Just you, nature, the playful squirrels, and the history of the past. The only thing missing is a cold beer.”