The enchanting white stone landscape with effervescent thermal pools

From a distance, Pamukkale resembles a ski resort, with a cascade of gleaming white slopes and tourists at the summit, seemingly ready to ski down into the valley below.

So how does it manage to remain intact when the scorching midsummer temperatures approach 100°F (37°C), and the air shimmers with heat?

Because this remarkable and stunning natural wonder, nestled in the sun-drenched hills of southwestern Turkey, isn’t snow. In fact, the water that forms it sometimes bursts forth from the earth at boiling point.

And the visitors gathered at the top aren’t rushing anywhere. Most come to marvel at the stunning sight – and to dip their feet or relax in some of the world’s most photogenic hot springs.

Today, Pamukkale’s travertine terraces and pools, filled with milky blue mineral-rich water, provide the perfect backdrop for Instagram photos, especially during the golden hour when the evening sun bathes the rippled surfaces in shades of pink.

Gateway to the Underworld

However, Pamukkale was already a major tourist destination thousands of years before social media, as the Greeks and later the Romans flocked here to enjoy the healing thermal waters and to worship at what was believed to be the entrance to the underworld.

Today, Pamukkale and the ancient city of Hierapolis, which stretches across the plateau above the white terraces, form part of a UNESCO World Heritage site that draws busloads of visitors. While many stay for just a few hours, it’s worth taking at least a day to explore this geological and historical treasure trove.

The Hierapolis and Pamukkale site is vast, so it takes some time to reach the most popular spots (golf carts are available for those on a tight schedule or unable to walk long distances). But this means that when you finally reach the highlight, it’s all the more impressive.

After a 10-minute walk along the paved paths from the entrance, the line of trees that marks the edge of the plateau comes into view. Even if you know what’s ahead, there’s still a sense of awe when the sight of the stunning white landscape is finally revealed.

Over thousands of years, the calcite left behind by the thermal waters bubbling up from the earth has sculpted the hillside, forming the white terraces that give the area its name – Pamukkale, meaning ‘cotton castle’ in Turkish.

These terraces were once home to numerous naturally formed blue pools. However, most of these are now dry and inaccessible, which has led to some disappointment as visitors feel the site no longer matches the iconic images from past decades.

“It’s beautiful, but there’s not as much water as I expected,” says Mary Huang, a tourist from Guangzhou, China, as she poses for a photo on the edge of one of the pools. “The view, however, is absolutely stunning.”

Serene pools

Despite the reduced water levels, there are still a series of calm, flowing pools that descend the hillside. It’s a great spot to wade in or lie back in the shallow waters, which are believed to have healing properties.

Visitors must leave their shoes behind to explore the terraces. The rock can be slippery and uncomfortable at times, but it doesn’t take long to reach the first pool, where the soft sediment welcomes your feet.

The top terraces tend to be the most crowded, but if you're willing to venture further down, you may find a secluded pool all to yourself.

DJ Tiz, a South Korean music producer touring Turkey with his partner Fre Naz, is one of the many visitors enjoying the therapeutic mud baths, while a friendly dog keeps watch. After experiencing much of Turkey's scenic beauty, he declares, “Pamukkale is my favorite.”

For those seeking a more indulgent spa experience, the Antique Pool is just a short five-minute walk from the top of the terraces. Here, for a modest additional fee, guests can use the changing rooms and enjoy a swim in crystal-clear thermal waters, floating over the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo.

Even better, near the water’s source, one corner of the pool is filled with tiny, effervescent bubbles – it feels like swimming in warm champagne or soda. The water is said to have therapeutic properties, providing relief for skin, heart, and joint issues. Drinking from the water pump is also believed to improve digestive health.

Toxic Vapors

Visitors can easily lose themselves exploring the ruins of Hierapolis – highlights include the grand 2nd-century agora marketplace, the stunning Roman theater, and the ancient tombs of the necropolis.

The vastness of the site speaks to the once mighty influence and significance of the city, which is even mentioned in the Bible alongside another nearby ancient city, Laodicea (which is also worth a visit). Much of Hierapolis' historical importance was built on the geothermal forces that lay beneath its ground.

Although many Romans and Greeks came to the city for its therapeutic waters, the location also held deep religious importance, being home to a Plutonium cave, believed to be an entrance to the underworld.

At this site, visitors were astounded to witness sacrificial animals, like bulls, drop dead after inhaling toxic carbon dioxide gases rising from the earth. The priests who led the animals in, however, were unharmed, having learned to hold their breath.

Today, the Plutonium, located between the Ancient Pool and the Roman theater, remains one of Hierapolis' must-see spots. It’s best appreciated in the evening when the site’s dramatic features are illuminated under the night sky.

While Pamukkale is basking in newfound global fame, thanks to its striking appearance in social media posts, some locals express regret over the changes in tourism and the influx of modern visitors to the area.

City of Steam

Ali Durmuş, who operates Turkey Magic Travel in Pamukkale, believes that the restrictions placed on much of the travertine pools and the rerouting of water after the site gained UNESCO World Heritage status have diminished the visitor experience. He feels this has led to shorter stays.

Pamukkale’s inclusion on the UNESCO list triggered the demolition of nearby hotels, the creation of new pools, the rerouting of water through artificial channels, enhanced site management, and the closing off of the slopes to protect them from further degradation, which had turned them from white to gray.

"If visitors can't enjoy the water, they won't stick around for long. Maybe they stay a night, or just drop by for a few hours," says Durmuş.

He is concerned that the reduced experience at Pamukkale has caused visitors to miss out on exploring the surrounding area, which boasts other geothermal wonders. Towns stretching northwest of Pamukkale, along a geological fault, harness increasingly hotter steam and water emerging from deep underground.

Around 20 minutes' drive to the northwest in the Denizli Basin, the town of Karahayit is home to spas and heating systems powered by the iron-rich red waters that bubble up at around 50°C (122°F). The town also features a charming covered market, where visitors can enjoy local mulberry juice sold by street vendors.

Further afield, in the town of Buharkent – aptly named 'Steam City' – water heated to boiling point fuels Turkey's first geothermal power station.

Although Pamukkale occasionally experiences chilly winter days with snow, the geothermal forces beneath the surface ensure that the area remains a warm, alluring destination year-round.