The Enormous Wobbly Crystal Meatball: The Pinnacle of Taiwanese Snacking

In Changhua, a central city in Taiwan next to Taichung, known as one of the origins of bubble tea, local shops and stalls offer a unique snack resembling a giant, see-through boba. Roughly fist-sized and served in a small bowl, this jiggly, soft delicacy resists chopsticks with a satisfying pull. Unlike its sweet counterpart, this treat is savory, featuring a pork and bamboo shoot meatball seasoned lightly with soy sauce, sugar, white pepper, and a hint of rice wine, all topped with a vibrant coral sweet chile glaze, occasionally mixed with soy paste.

This dish is a delightful fusion, straddling the lines between meatball, dumpling, and boba. In Taiwanese Hokkien, it’s called bawan (also seen as ba wan or bah uân), simply meaning “meatball,” while its translucent exterior has led to the captivating English moniker: “crystal meatball.”

Bawan made its debut in 1898 amid a flood in Changhua that caused food shortages. As per the Changhua County Cultural Affairs Bureau, the tale unfolds with temple scribe Fan Wan-Chu, inspired by a deity during relief efforts, who devised a dish to nourish the struggling locals. The result was a steamed dumpling made from readily available sweet potato starch, filled with accessible bamboo shoot chunks.

Although the crystal meatball was born from a brief period of hardship, evolving to include pork in the filling, tapioca starch in the wrapper, and flavorful sauces on top, its core ingredients are deeply rooted in the island’s culinary traditions. Today, bawan stands as a beloved local delicacy, with regional variations found throughout Taiwan, and continues to symbolize the resilient spirit of Taiwanese cuisine.

A four-part exploration of the crystal meatball's delightful texture.

What makes bawan irresistible?

Bawan is typically enjoyed as a snack or a light meal throughout the day, often accompanied by a steaming bowl of fish ball soup for added comfort. Its primary attraction lies in its texture, which should remain wobbly and jiggly without becoming too firm.

Fan originally crafted the wrapper for the crystal meatball solely from sweet potato starch, which resulted in a dough that could be quite tough and plasticky. To remedy this, vendors began incorporating tapioca starch for a softer, more luscious texture. Nowadays, most crystal meatballs are made with a blend of both starches.

Achieving the perfect texture is no simple feat. To create the wrapper, a chef combines starch and water in a saucepan over low heat, stirring until a thick, white, pasty dough emerges. Unlike wheat flour, which contains gluten for structure and is easy to work with, the dough made from sweet potato and tapioca starch resembles mashed potatoes in consistency. It lacks stability, prompting vendors to spread a thin layer of starch inside a well-oiled saucer, fill it, then cover with another starch layer before steaming.

'Mastering the starch application is essential; otherwise, it won’t be uniform,' explains Lin Wen Chun, the second-generation owner of Da Zhu Taiwanese Meatball in Changhua. Lin is an expert in crystal meatballs, with his father having opened the shop nearly fifty years ago.

Another challenge lies in finding the right starch ratio. 'You can’t just throw in any amount you want,' Lin emphasizes. 'It requires skill.' To keep the meatballs soft throughout the day, Lin stores his freshly steamed crystal meatballs in a pool of oil at the front of his shop. He picks one up and gently bends it. 'A good one shouldn’t crack and should be transparent,' he notes.

Today, there are many regional variations of this dish, some featuring shrimp or pork marinated in red yeast. However, the crystal meatballs from Changhua stand out for their delightful mix of pork and bamboo; the robust meat harmonizes beautifully with the crisp, fresh shoots.

What sets the crystal meatball apart as a Taiwanese specialty?

While many today link Taiwan with hearty bowls of beef noodle soup and crispy scallion pancakes, it’s important to note that wheat flour wasn’t widely used on the island until the 1950s, when the American government began sending large shipments as part of an international food aid program.

Before this shift, sweet potatoes and rice were the primary carbohydrates on the island, cultivated on lands farmed by the early waves of Chinese immigrants in the 17th century. Historical accounts indicate that although rice was grown on half of the cultivated land, it was insufficient to feed everyone. In contrast, sweet potatoes thrived year-round, with both the tubers and leaves being edible. Cheaper than rice—a cash crop with a good profit margin—the sweet potato was the staple carb until the mid-20th century. Unlike rice, which required harvesting and processing, sweet potatoes were easily accessible to anyone with a shovel.

The sweet potato was a lifeline for generations of Taiwanese families, celebrated for its adaptability. It could be roasted, boiled, or diced into rice porridge to add bulk. Before refrigeration, the best way to preserve excess sweet potatoes was to extract and dehydrate their starch. This fine white starch could thicken soups, be mixed into egg omelets with oysters for a chewy contrast, or formed into chewy starch balls steeped in sugar, a folk remedy believed to alleviate heat stroke. As Fan discovered, it could also be shaped into a wrapper and steamed to create a satisfying snack.

The filling of the crystal meatball is deeply rooted in local ingredients, showcasing Taiwan’s unique terroir. The subtropical climate, rich in rainfall, allows bamboo to flourish, making it a prevalent plant on the island. Eight different varieties of bamboo are commonly used in local cuisine, with their shoots readily available at wet markets throughout the year. This made bamboo an ideal choice for Fan, who sought a substantial and affordable stuffing for his starch balls.

Over time, pork was incorporated to add heft, a logical decision since it is the most prevalent protein in Taiwan. Domestic pigs were brought to the island in the 19th century by Chinese settlers, although wild boars have inhabited Taiwan since the end of the last ice age. With two-thirds of the island covered in mountains, pigs, which require minimal space and grazing, quickly became the primary source of protein.

Where to find the best crystal meatballs.

Da Zhu Taiwanese Meatball (大竹肉圓)

In terms of texture, few vendors can match the Lin family's expertise honed over the past 50 years. The skin of their meatball is lush and almost ethereal, while the filling remains traditional, featuring just pork and bamboo—yet it’s incredibly flavorful. To make their meatballs stand out, the family adds a touch of red food dye to each one. 'It's like when women put on lipstick before going out,' Lin says. 'It adds a lively touch.' No. 106, Section 2, Zhangnan Rd, Changhua

Asan Meatball (阿三肉圓)

This establishment is a local landmark, often drawing long lines of patrons eager to try its imaginative take on the crystal meatball. Their version is filled with a delightful mix of pork, Hokkaido scallops, and deep-fried duck eggs. Each meatball is wrapped in a traditional sweet potato and tapioca starch dough, then deep-fried to achieve a crispy edge. No. 242, Sanmin Rd, Changhua

Huang’s Meatball (黃氏蝦仁肉圓)

In the southern city of Tainan, some vendors incorporate a bit of rice flour into the tapioca and sweet potato mix, resulting in a milky white hue for the final product. Instead of shaping the wrapper dough in a saucer, chefs skillfully form the meatball by hand and place it directly onto a lined bamboo steamer. If you observe closely, you might spot ridges on the surface from the chef's fingertips. Huang’s meatballs are filled with tender shrimp and pork, a favored pairing in the coastal region. No. 1, Lane 2, Lane 79, Zhongshan Road, Tainan

Hsinchu Yulong Meatballs (新竹玉龍肉圓)

In Hsinchu, vendors infuse their pork filling with red yeast, imparting a uniquely sweet flavor reminiscent of char siu. Yulong prepares their meatballs by steaming and then deep-frying them, giving them a delightful bounce. Each meatball is finished with a vibrant red sweet chile sauce. No. 469, Nanda Rd, Hsinchu

Nanjichang Changhua Meatball (南機場 彰化肉圓)

While crystal meatballs are widely available along Taiwan's west coast, they are less common in Taipei. This stall, established in 1982, is a notable exception, serving Changhua-style meatballs filled with generous chunks of pork and fine slices of bamboo. No. 36, Lane 313, Section 2, Zhonghua Rd, Taipei