The finest dishes in Georgia and the best spots to savor them in Tbilisi
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From Portland to Berlin, people are enjoying delicious dumplings.
In Manhattan and Warsaw, diners are dipping bread crusts into pots of molten cheese, while in Washington DC and London, they’re savoring eggplant stuffed with walnut filling. Georgian cuisine, long celebrated for its unique flavors and exotic appeal, is finally earning its well-deserved recognition across the globe. The world’s best-kept culinary secret is now out in the open.
In Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, a culinary revolution is underway. Local chefs are transforming Georgian cuisine, pushing the boundaries of flavor, technique, and sophistication.
Fueled by increased global connections, this movement also revives traditional culinary practices. There's never been a more thrilling time to experience Georgia’s food scene.
These are the must-try dishes.
Khinkali
To truly experience Georgian cuisine, start with the classic khinkali. This traditional dumpling, originating from the rugged Caucasus mountains, is typically filled with mutton. However, in the lowlands, a spiced mixture of ground beef and pork is more commonly used.
Because khinkali contains a rich broth, it’s essential to bite a small hole in the dumpling and slurp the hot filling before devouring the rest. And remember, never use a knife or fork!
Khinkali is served at countless restaurants, each with its own take on the dish. While many places offer it, only a few hand-make the dough, resulting in a thicker, stickier texture that soaks up the savory juices. Sioni 13 in Old Town serves an exceptional Khevsuretian beef and pork khinkali made by a local highlander, while Zakhar Zakharich (3 Sanapiro St) near Tbilisi’s Dry Bridge offers delicious mushroom and classic lamb versions.
Khachapuri and Acharuli
In Georgian, 'khacho' means curd and 'puri' means bread. Together, they form the iconic cheesy bread known as khachapuri, which comes in many variations and shapes. (However, it’s no longer considered khachapuri when it’s stuffed with beans, meat, or potatoes.)
When you search for 'khachapuri,' the legendary acharuli is bound to appear because there’s truly nothing else quite like it. Hailing from the Black Sea region of Adjara, this dish is essentially a boat-shaped pie made from soft, leavened dough, filled with gooey cheese, and topped with a raw egg yolk and a generous scoop of butter.
Acharuli is the epitome of comfort food, eaten by tearing off pieces of the crust and dunking them into the dangerously delicious, cheese-filled fondue.
Though widely imitated, the authentic acharuli can only be found in a few select places, such as in the kitchen of an Adjaran grandmother, a few restaurants in Batumi, or at Cafe Retro in Tbilisi, where Gia Agirba, a Batumi native, crafts it in his specially-designed oven.
Mtsvadi
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Grilling chunks of meat on skewers over an open flame is one of the simplest and oldest forms of cooking. Yet Georgians have mastered this technique, especially in Kakheti, where the burning embers of vine trimmings – which burn intensely and quickly – are used to cook mtsvadi to perfection.
Although traditionally made from pork, mtsvadi is a staple at most traditional restaurants in Tbilisi. However, not all establishments offer the highest-quality cuts, cooked and seasoned to perfection, especially those catering primarily to tourists.
Located on the edge of town, away from the tourist crowds, Kakhelebi is a restaurant that elevates Kakhetian cuisine by using only the freshest ingredients and preparing traditional dishes that most places overlook – like nettle salad or their signature roasted oyster mushrooms with fresh tarragon. Their mtsvadi featuring pork, veal, and goat is absolutely unforgettable.
Shkmeruli
The Racha region, often called 'the land of swine and wine,' is renowned for its smoked pork and semi-sweet Kvanchkara wine. It’s also the birthplace of the iconic garlic chicken dish, shkmeruli.
Shkmeruli is roasted in a rustic ceramic dish with milk and enough garlic to repel an army of vampires – definitely not a dish for the faint of heart. It’s always a great idea to order roasted potatoes to soak up the flavorful sauce after you’ve devoured the chicken, but bread will work too. A perfect spot to enjoy this hearty meal is Rachis Ubani in the Tbilisi ethnographic park, offering stunning views of the city.
Kharcho with Ghomi
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Walnuts are a staple in Georgian cuisine, whether ground into cucumber and tomato salads, mixed into the vegetable pâté phkali, or crushed into the sweet, holiday dessert, gozinaki.
They’re also used to thicken stews, like the spicy veal-based kharcho from western Georgia, made with tomatoes, garlic, and a wide range of spices.
Kharcho pairs wonderfully with ghomi, a Georgian version of polenta. Before corn was introduced, Georgians used local millet to make ghomi, a tradition nearly forgotten today. Chef Giorgi Iosava in Tbilisi prepares a rich, hearty kharcho served with millet ghomi at his charming, bohemian basement restaurant, Salobie Bia.
Chakapuli and Mussels Chakapuli
Tekuna Gachechiladze is often called the queen of Georgian fusion cuisine – a title she dismisses, insisting that all Georgian food is fusion, shaped by centuries of interaction with Silk Road travelers and conquerors.
However, she was the first to boldly experiment with traditional recipes, setting new trends in the local culinary scene. Many of her creations are now adapted in restaurants around the world.
One of her more famous inventions is Mussels Chakapuli, a dish that sparked outrage among traditionalists for its culinary audacity.
Chakapuli is a stew made with lamb (or veal), sour plums, white wine, and an abundance of fresh tarragon, typically served on Easter Sunday. Gachechiladze simply swapped the meat for mussels, creating a unique, tangy seafood version that she serves at Cafe Littera, a charming restaurant nestled in the lush garden of the early 20th-century David Sarajishvili mansion. It's one of the best places to dine outdoors in Tbilisi during the summer.
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Evaluation :
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