The future of responsible elephant tourism in Thailand

One of my most embarrassing moments as a traveler happened in Thailand.

During my first backpacking adventure at 20, I visited an elephant sanctuary in the Golden Triangle of Northern Thailand, eager to see an elephant up close. I assumed a “sanctuary” would be a safe haven for elephants, but I sensed something was amiss when we were encouraged to climb onto the elephants that were tied to a post.

Since then, every time I see an elephant, I no longer view it as Thailand’s national symbol, but rather as a representation of tourism missteps. Is there a way to ethically engage with these gentle giants that have symbolized Thailand for centuries? Driven by curiosity, I planned my return trip to Thailand.

How to find a trustworthy elephant sanctuary

I intended to revisit the Golden Triangle, but this time I conducted thorough research. In my quest for camps dedicated to meaningful elephant rehabilitation, Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort frequently emerged as a credible sanctuary. Within just 10 minutes of arriving at the resort, I spotted two elephants grazing freely by the Mekong River, igniting my curiosity about the care provided for the 20 elephants living there.

Many of the estimated 3,800 captive elephants in Thailand do not receive fair treatment. Despite being protected under the Wild Animal Reservation and Protection Act (WARPA) since 1975, numerous elephants in tourist facilities suffer. They often develop anxious habits, which I observed firsthand. Dr. Nissa Mututanont explained that the repetitive head movement of one elephant was a self-soothing behavior it retained from captivity, even after finding safety.

I learned many valuable lessons from Dr. Mututanont as she guided us in making elephant energy balls—a large mixture of bananas, tamarind, and nutritional pellets we shaped by hand. We walked with the elephants and bathed them under the warm sun. I was relieved to discover that riding elephants was not part of the experience—this camp prioritizes elephant rehabilitation over providing Instagram-worthy moments for guests. The interactions here focus more on education than entertainment, marking a positive shift in elephant tourism that responds to increasing demands from the travel industry and animal welfare advocates to protect elephants from harmful practices—such as caging and beating—often associated with training them for tourism. Established in 2003, the Anantara camp collaborates with The Golden Triangle Asian Elephant Foundation (GTAEF) to conduct street rescues and offer a comfortable home for elephants, with Dr. Mututanont overseeing their dietary and medical needs. To date, the camp has rescued over 50 elephants, providing a new home not only for these gentle giants but also for their mahouts.

Understanding the significance of the elephant–mahout relationship

Despite a 4,000-year history of elephant handling, the profession of mahout is in decline. While it’s essential to shut down unethical elephant camps, little thought is given to the fate of the elephants and their caretakers afterwards. During the pandemic, as tourism to Thailand halted, the financial resources needed to care for the elephants also vanished. 'Their caretakers need to find around US$20 a day just to feed their elephants, let alone support their own families and meet other expenses,' explains John Roberts, Anantara’s Group Director of Elephants & Conservation. 'Elephants eat between six and ten percent of their body weight daily, costing about US$18,000 a year to maintain one elephant.' Without tourism income, mahouts find it challenging to provide proper care for their elephants.

While mahouts could easily abandon their elephants, most choose not to, as these gentle giants are not only their primary source of income but also companions with whom they share a deep connection. I witnessed this bond firsthand when a mahout wrapped his arms around his elephant’s trunk in a heartfelt moment. With 70% of the mahouts having come to this profession alongside their elephants, it’s clear that this lifelong relationship significantly impacts the wellbeing of the elephants.

The mahout and elephant share a unique dialect of commands, but once the elephant bonds with its mahout, these cues become unnecessary. Their relationship is so strong that elephants instinctively offer shade to their mahouts when they sit in the sun. Instead of a master-servant dynamic, the mahout and elephant resemble a family unit — each reliant on the other for survival.

Empowering former mahouts

That’s why Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort prioritizes the well-being of their mahouts just as much as that of their elephants. The mahouts reside on-site and are provided with three meals daily. The GTAEF also aids the families of the mahouts, ensuring that their children receive education in local villages. Thanks to English language programs, these schools have transformed from the lowest ranking in the province to among the top one hundred. Since being a mahout is often a familial tradition, enhancing literacy and educational standards for future generations could help secure the future of elephant caretaking.

Not only the children of the mahouts receive education, but the mahouts themselves do as well, learning ethical methods of elephant training. One of the GTAEF’s standout initiatives is the 'Target Training Positive Reinforcement Workshop,' where elephants are taught to present specific body parts for medical checks, like nail trimming and blood tests, all while being rewarded with their favorite treats. Now entering its twelfth year, this training has been so successful that the Foundation has expanded its reach to neighboring countries like Laos, Myanmar, and Cambodia. 'So far, we've trained over 400 mahouts,' shares Dr. Mututanont. 'It’s incredibly inspiring to see how quickly these new techniques have been embraced by the mahouts.'

After my disheartening elephant encounter over a decade ago, I was determined to find a sanctuary that truly embodied the concept of refuge. I was pleased to discover that such a place exists at Anantara Elephant Camp. What surprised me even more, however, was realizing that ethical elephant tourism in Thailand involves supporting the people behind the elephants — the mahouts who care for them — just as much as the elephants themselves.