The Harlem Baker Crafting the Finest Rugelach in the City

At first sight, the cozy Harlem shop with its candy cane-striped awning appears to be a classic American bakery, filled with rows of sugar cookies and slices of red velvet cake. Yet, nestled among the pound cakes and sweet potato pies are trays of rugelach—raspberry, apricot, and chocolate—that 81-year-old Alvin Lee Smalls, known as “Mr. Lee,” is famous for at Lee Lee’s Baked Goods.

Since 1988, Mr. Lee has been creating his take on the Jewish pastry at 118th Street and Frederick Douglass Boulevard, just a few blocks from where Malcolm X inspired countless activists at one of the most prominent mosques in the country, and a few train stops from where Langston Hughes made significant contributions to American poetry. (Mr. Lee began his professional rugelach journey on Amsterdam Avenue at Marion Smalls Bakery, his first shop named after his father.) In a city where rugelach is almost everywhere, Mr. Lee remains one of the few bakers still crafting the pastry the traditional way.

“We prioritize quality ingredients, and everything is handcrafted,” Mr. Lee shares with Dinogo. “That’s why people keep coming back.”

For centuries, rugelach, a traditional Ashkenazi Jewish pastry, has been enjoyed in homes and bakeries across Eastern Europe, where families have shared recipes for the doughy cookies filled with dried fruits, nuts, jams, chocolate, cinnamon, and more. Chefs typically prepare rugelach in two forms: either as crescent-shaped croissants or as cookie rounds with swirled designs, like the versions offered by Mr. Lee at his bakery.

Mr. Lee discovered the rugelach recipe in 1964 while browsing through a newspaper. Originally from South Carolina, he relocated to New York in 1962 and spent 29 years in various kitchen roles at New York-Presbyterian Hospital. There, he worked with patients on sugar-free and gluten-free diets; after his shifts, he experimented with recipes at home to enhance their flavors. Rugelach fascinated him, leading him to transform another newspaper recipe into a beloved cookie that gained the attention of New York Times food writer Julia Moskin in 2008.

Mr. Lee shared the challenges that fueled his quest for the ideal rugelach years ago: Traditional Jewish and German bakeries were shutting down, and if he wanted the flaky, perfectly crumbly treat, he needed to create it himself. Since then, he has begun each day at 5:30 AM to bake fresh rugelach for his customers. Mr. Lee is among the last commercial bakers in New York who uses butter instead of vegetable shortening, a nod to the Jewish and Eastern European bakeries of the 19th and 20th centuries. (Using butter is a more labor-intensive and intricate process.)

Affectionately calling her husband “a true baking enthusiast,” Mr. Lee’s wife, Kellyn Tillers Smalls, praises his dedication.

“He lives, breathes, eats, discusses, dreams about, and is always passionate about everything related to baking. Right now, he’s in the bakery,” she tells me on a frigid winter day in New York. “He’s in the bakery every single day.”

Born and raised in New York, baker Larry Finkelstein from Court Street Grocers recalls relying on his parents' bakery for hostess gifts; he reminisces about the golden days of rugelach, when bakeries in the Upper West Side and Brooklyn offered them daily. According to Finkelstein, Mr. Lee brings back that cherished nostalgia.

“I felt a connection to this guy,” Finkelstein says of Lee Lee’s, a place he has frequented for decades. “He’s such a vital part of the community. He’s preserving that unique flavor and presence.”

Harlem locals also highlight Mr. Lee’s affection for the community surrounding him. His unmatched rugelach has earned him acclaim in the baking world, but what truly distinguishes Lee Lee’s, says neighborhood resident and chef Marcus Samuelsson, “is the respect Mr. Smalls shows to every guest. He listens to everyone who enters and makes each experience incredibly personal and delicious.”

Lee Lee’s Bakery is located on Harlem’s Restaurant Row, which features acclaimed restaurants serving African American cuisine, such as the beloved Melba’s and Caribbean-inspired LoLo’s Seafood Shack. Mr. Lee maintains friendships with many local restaurant owners and is a staple in the community, reflecting his importance in Harlem. For many residents, Lee Lee’s symbolizes the rich international culture of the area, along with its diverse culinary offerings. While soul food remains a cornerstone of African American dining, enticing bowls of ramen, seafood-filled Spanish tapas, and a range of Italian eateries complement Lee Lee’s, catering to the cosmopolitan tastes of a constantly evolving and diverse population.

“We've welcomed visitors from many wonderful places, as well as locals from right here,” Mr. Lee shared, mentioning travelers from Latin America and the Middle East, along with elderly Black residents who have called Harlem home for decades. “It’s all because we’ve remained true to the recipe. We’ve adhered to what works.”

The dough, sprinkled with sugar crystals, offers a satisfying chew. The fruit filling isn’t overly sweet, allowing its natural flavor to shine through. While Mr. Lee keeps the recipe close to his chest, he regards it as an unbreakable blueprint for his success. He never strays from the original.

“When you use quality ingredients—good butter, cream, cheese—everything falls into place,” he explains.

The cozy bakehouse exudes charm, and instead of typical advertisements or menus, Mr. Smalls showcases book covers, pamphlets, and photographs of influential figures on the walls. While waiting for my order one afternoon, I admired the cover of The Autobiography of Malcolm X and writings from the NAACP. Harlem is fundamentally a space for African American celebration, broad thinking, and aspirations for a better world. What could be better than experiencing it with a taste of buttery, flaky pastry?

“You must visit us at least once,” Mr. Lee encourages. “And then come back for more.”

Rugelach from Lee Lee’s Baked Goods can be delivered locally within Manhattan and is also available via USPS Priority Mail across the United States. The bakery operates daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., except on Sundays when it opens from noon to 5 p.m.