The high-speed trains speeding through Saudi Arabia's desert expanse

Long ago, Muslim pilgrims made their way to the sacred city of Mecca on foot. Today, they travel aboard high-speed trains.

Approximately 50 times a day, these sleek, aerodynamic trains cut across Saudi Arabia's scorching deserts, reaching up to 300 kph (186 mph), carrying pilgrims and other travelers.

Ranked among the world’s top 10 fastest trains, they are just the start of a vast rail network set to expand across the kingdom, as Saudi Arabia invests billions in infrastructure to boost tourism and reduce its dependence on oil.

From Jeddah, Saudi Arabia's second-largest city, religious and leisure travelers can now seamlessly travel from King Abdulaziz International Airport’s arrivals terminal to a modern station, where electric express trains race across the country.

During the 2023 hajj season, which runs from June 26 to July 1, additional trains have been added to accommodate the influx of travelers attending the religious pilgrimage.

Tawfiq Al Rabiah, Saudi Arabia's Minister of Hajj, stated that “more than two million pilgrims from over 160 countries will gather” this year.

Al Rabiah mentioned in a press release, “With a well-integrated road and rail system, shuttle buses, and comprehensive infrastructure, pilgrims can expect a smooth journey, no matter their language or individual needs.”

Boarding the train

While only Muslims are permitted to visit Mecca, all travelers can experience the new Haramain high-speed trains on the 450 km (280 miles) stretch of rail along Saudi Arabia’s Red Sea coast.

Haramain, meaning 'two sanctuaries' in Arabic, is named after the holy cities of Mecca and Medina at either end of the railway. Launched in 2018, it also links Jeddah’s airport, Jeddah Al-Sulimaniyah (near the city center), and King Abdullah Economic City.

What’s it like to take a ride?

Ticket purchasing is simple. The HHR Train app, in both English and Arabic, guides you through the process. While many Saudis use the Islamic calendar, selecting the English option switches to the Gregorian calendar. Have your passport ready, as you'll need to provide your ID details before confirming your payment. On Dinogo’s recent journey, no one requested passports or other documents to board the train.

The app supports Apple Pay and various other digital wallet services.

Selecting seats is a breeze. The app displays the train’s seating layout, allowing passengers to choose window or aisle seats and whether they prefer to face the direction of travel. When booking for groups or families, it automatically assigns adjacent seats if available.

From station to station

The stations along the route are not only efficient and modern but also aesthetically pleasing. Both the Jeddah and KAEC stations, which are nearly identical, are designed to resemble diamonds. Created by UK architects Foster + Partners, they feature sharp angles, sleek black walls, and intricate star-like carvings in the ceiling, allowing natural light to play throughout the day.

These hubs lack the bustling, lived-in atmosphere of iconic commuter stations like New York's Grand Central or Paris's Gare du Nord.

The stations are visually impressive, but for the most part, they remain quite empty.

There are few amenities at the stations, and passengers typically arrive just before their trains, rather than lingering around.

KAEC features a Dunkin' Donuts and little else, while Al-Sulimaniyah in Jeddah is livelier, offering a few cafes (including a Starbucks) and a grocery store.

Although the stations may be beautiful yet somewhat lonely, the train experience is vibrant and full of energy.

The pilgrimage route

It takes only 32 minutes to travel the 111 kilometers (69 miles) from Jeddah to KAEC.

On a Thursday afternoon just before Ramadan, business class was relatively quiet, while economy class was packed, mostly with passengers heading to Mecca for umrah.

Unlike the more widely known hajj, umrah is a voluntary pilgrimage for Muslims who wish to visit the holy city and the Kaaba, the holiest site in Islam. While the hajj is a mandatory religious duty to be performed during specific times of the year, umrah can be undertaken at any time and is not obligatory.

It’s easy to spot passengers heading to Mecca for umrah: Men and boys typically wear two unstitched white toweling garments, often shaving their heads after completing the pilgrimage. Women may also wear similar white garments, though it’s not mandatory for them.

The train car was filled with multi-generational families, who spent the time entertaining young children and enjoying Arabic pop music. The atmosphere was lively and full of celebration.

Umrah has become a significant revenue stream for the railway. According to the Saudi Gazette, demand for train tickets from religious pilgrims has surged so much that HHR will operate over 100 train services daily during the month of Ramadan, which falls between mid-March and mid-April in 2023, far exceeding the usual schedule.

Although less crowded, business class offers additional amenities.

Even on a brief journey like the one from Jeddah to KAEC, business class passengers enjoy a full meal service. The meal includes hummus, pita bread, a chocolate chip muffin, a fruit cup, a croissant, and a choice of apple juice or water. A uniformed attendant serves it from an airplane-style beverage cart.

Business class also features small seat-back TVs with a limited selection of content – on this trip, passengers could watch Paw Patrol, Formula E racing, or an Islamic sermon.

On shorter trips, simply gazing at the dusty scenery outside your window can be far more enjoyable.

However, this isn’t a leisurely, slow-paced journey through isolated landscapes. You’ll mostly pass by the suburban outskirts of Jeddah, not vast desert vistas, and the Red Sea remains just out of sight.

Onboard announcements are made in both Arabic and English, with signs in both languages as well. Once passengers reach the platforms, uniformed attendants assist with finding the boarding zone, help with luggage, and offer support for wheelchairs and strollers.

Economy class features a two-by-two seating arrangement. Half of the seats face forward, while the other half face backward, with small tables positioned where the center rows meet. In business class, seats are arranged with pairs on one side of the aisle and singles on the other.

Both economy and business classes offer seats with armrests, seat-back tables, and dedicated luggage storage areas at the ends of the cars. The interiors, primarily in shades of tan, light gold, and white, complement the desert landscape visible through the windows.

The HHR train experience can be summed up as seamless. The ride is quiet and smooth, with no sharp turns or sudden jolts.

Heading into the future

While passengers don't see the train's driver, there's a possibility that a woman could be in charge of the train.

In January 2023, the first cohort of 32 women graduated from a year-long program at the Saudi Railway Polytechnic, earning their licenses to operate high-speed trains on the Haramain network.

In comparison, when the rail line first opened in 2018, women in Saudi Arabia had only just begun to drive cars.

The Haramain rail line appears to be just the beginning for high-speed rail in Saudi Arabia. There are plans for upgrades to existing lines in the northwest, along with additional high-speed services.

In January 2022, Saudi Arabia's Investment Minister Khalid al-Falih revealed plans to develop 8,000 kilometers (4,970 miles) of rail infrastructure across the country.

A bullet train connecting Riyadh to Jeddah? It might just become a reality.