The Hottest Late-Night Party in Rome Happens at the Bakery

It’s midnight, and Donatella is in line at Il Maritozzaro in the Trastevere district of Rome. While her preteen son trails behind her with a frown, she radiates childlike excitement. “He’s saying he’s tired,” she comments, “but that’s just because he hasn’t experienced it yet.” This nighttime adventure marks a special family moment: Donatella is treating her son to his very first maritozzo, a plump brioche filled with fresh cream.

According to legend, maritozzi were once given by brides as gifts to their new husbands (“marito” means husband in Italian) on their wedding nights; “tozzo,” meaning short and plump, describes the bun’s shape—not the groom’s. Although its origins trace back to Pescara, a nearby coastal town, as Katia, another eager customer, puts it, “Maybe the maritozzo isn’t from Rome, but Il Maritozzaro is as Roman as they come.”

Widely recognized for crafting the finest maritozzi in the city, the bakery’s unique charm lies in its hours. In Rome, as night falls, it’s not kebabs or pizza that partygoers seek, but something sweet. Il Maritozzaro operates around the clock, but it truly comes alive after 11 p.m., when locals flock to the bar, two tiny outdoor tables, and the street corner, engaging in laughter and devouring the creamy goodness of their maritozzi.

A similar buzz can be found at many late-night bakeries throughout the city. They stay open into the wee hours, offering Nutella-stuffed croissants and bombas—doughnuts bursting with custard—often focusing on one specialty. Just a few streets from Il Maritozzaro, Il Cornettone has been serving filled cornetti at all hours for over 30 years in a warm, welcoming environment. Owner Antonio Schina points out that, unlike the buttery French croissant, the Italian cornetto uses margarine, making it lighter and perfectly fine to enjoy several in one late-night feast. This is great news, as the laboratorio is brimming with trays of cornetti filled with pistachio cream, strawberry jam, and a variety of other delights, making it hard to pick just one flavor.

What sparked the rise of late-night desserts?

As with any major city, Rome comes alive at night, with spirited locals exploring its myriad restaurants and bars. Meanwhile, dedicated bakers start their day early, preparing fresh goods. Eventually, these two scenes converged, leading to a thriving late-night market for early-morning pastries.

This transformation unfolded at Pasticceria Lambiase, located far from Il Maritozzaro and Il Cornettone. Originally a daytime bakery, it gained attention when late-night revelers from nearby student bars began knocking on its doors at dawn, drawn in by the enticing aroma of fresh pastries. When the lines at 4 a.m. grew so long that neighbors complained and police inquiries followed, owner Antonio Lambiase, a charismatic Neapolitan pastry chef, adapted his business into a full-fledged nighttime bakery to accommodate the demand.

This late-night tradition appeals to more than just college students; you'll see all kinds of patrons lining up at bakeries well into the night: teenagers, families, old friends, and late-shift workers—anyone eager to indulge after hours.

What makes the bakeries in Rome so exceptional?

Italians generally enjoy a sweet breakfast, and Rome’s late-night bakeries offer the same treats typically paired with a cappuccino in the morning (though espresso reigns supreme at night). However, there’s a distinct difference between savoring a pastry to kick off your day and indulging in one to wind it down.

As journalist Marco Lodoli puts it, “While the cornetto is essential in the morning, at night it transforms into pure delight.” Romans often refer to the nighttime pastry — especially the maritozzo — as “una coccola,” or a cuddle. Lodoli asserts that stopping for a late-night cornetto is such a joy it can make you forget about early flights or important meetings the next day. With a maritozzo in hand, it’s nearly impossible not to get cream all over your face — or think of anything else.

More than mere comfort food, Rome’s late-night pastries highlight the undeniable pleasure of eating, with striking implications about the joy they bring. Pasticceria Lambiase is famously known for its signature treat, la sorchetta doppio schizzo, translating to “the double-squirt pastry.” This palm-sized delicacy features a thin disk of pastry topped with a dollop of cream and a drizzle of chocolate.

Lambiase devised this treat through a mix of ingenuity and cheekiness. “I realized that if I cut the dough into disks instead of forming cornetti, I could produce three times as many pastries,” he shares. “When we baked the first sorchetta, I held it out to my colleague and asked, ‘What does this remind you of?’” Today, people travel from across Rome and beyond — Lambiase proudly showcases magazine clippings from Korea and Japan — just to taste his iconic creation. He chuckles, “It’s a bit risqué, but isn’t it lovely?”

Even the more delicate late-night Italian pastries possess a sensual allure. Visually stunning, they are often larger and messier than their counterparts in other European countries, typically bursting with cream or oozing Nutella. When paired with a robust espresso, they create a delightful contrast of bitter and sweet.

Back in line at Il Maritozzaro, Donatella has secured maritozzi for both herself and her son. While he isn’t as excited as she had hoped, Donatella’s joy at reuniting with her beloved pastry, especially after moving to the suburbs, overshadows his lackluster response. This moment symbolizes the passing down of a cherished tradition from parent to child. “I’ve been coming here at night since I was 18,” she shares. “This place has been a companion to Romans for generations.”

In a nation rich with diverse, sometimes contradictory culinary traditions that span generations, Romans have discovered a delightful way to cap off their evenings, regardless of what the morning may bring. With the cream-filled smiles adorning the faces at Il Maritozzaro, it’s clear that joy is inevitable.

Where to discover bakeries that stay open late in Rome

Il Maritozzaro

Since 1960, Il Maritozzaro has been a beloved establishment in the city, known for its classic maritozzo as well as pistachio and chocolate versions. Inside the compact bar, Patrizia Imperati takes orders and relays them to Mario Ciampella, the pastry chef, who skillfully slices open fresh brioche and generously fills them with whipped cream. Alongside a variety of other desserts, excellent coffee is also available. Just remember to pay before placing your order, and be swift, as there’s often a line of eager customers waiting behind you.50 Via Ettore Rolli, Rome, Italy, 00153

Il Cornettone

Translating to 'the big cornetto,' this bakery is managed by the larger-than-life Antonio Schina. With a wide array of fillings like Kinder Bueno, fresh cream, and Nutella, it’s the ideal spot for those wanting to relax with a late-night snack, accompanied by a beer and an espresso.215/219 Via Oderisi da Gubbio, Rome, Italy 00146

Pasticceria Lambiase

You might easily overlook Pasticceria Lambiase due to its plain exterior. Located in a basement, the delightful aroma will entice you inside. Lambiase and his team offer freshly made sorchetta and classic pastries from Southern Italy, such as Neapolitan sfogliatelle.47 Via Cernaia, Rome, Italy, 00185

Dolce Maniera

Famous for its bomba—a delicious, filled, deep-fried doughnut—and the stunning pesca, a sweet, boozy, cream-filled treat designed to resemble a pink peach, Dolce Maniera is situated near the Vatican. Visitors enter through a small staircase into a cozy basement bakery filled to the brim with pastries, allowing you to browse the entire selection while waiting in line to make your choice. 27 Via Barletta, Rome, Italy, 00192

Lara Gilmour is a journalist focusing on sustainability in food. She shares stories about how our dietary choices can influence and support our culture, driven by a passion for transforming food systems.

Giulia Verdinelli is a photographer dedicated to culinary storytelling. She loves to capture the genuine emotions tied to every stage of the food journey, from the farm to the table.