The ideal time to explore France

Coastal summer or winter on the slopes? Anna Richards, a co-author of the new Dinogo Planet France guidebook, offers her advice on selecting the perfect time for your dream vacation in France.

With towering Alps, subtropical Mediterranean gardens, and a festival lineup that spans everything from free concerts to garlic celebrations, the best time to visit France varies based on your destination.

As long as you choose the right region, France is a year-round haven. Paris, for instance, is lively all year, though it slows down a bit in August when many locals escape to the coast. However, several areas are quite seasonal. If you venture into rural regions outside the peak summer months (typically May to September), you might find many places shuttered. This is especially true in Corsica, where there’s a brief period between being “completely deserted” and “overrun by Parisians” in May, June, and September.

There are three primary climates: Paris, along with northern and western France, experiences mild, wet winters and warm to moderate summers. The Mediterranean enjoys hot, mostly dry summers and mild winters, while the Alps see snowy, cold winters and cooler summer months.

The optimal time for skiing is from December to April

In December, many French towns transform into picturesque winter wonderlands, especially in Alsace, where German traditions are strong and Christmas markets thrive. The largest market is in Strasbourg, but many visitors prefer the cozy charm of the smaller markets in the half-timbered towns of Colmar and Riquewihr. In Lorraine and parts of Alsace, St. Nicolas Day on December 6 holds more significance than Christmas, with celebrations in Nancy, Metz, and Epinal featuring a mischievous “Father Whipper” who distributes coal and turnips to naughty children (but thankfully, he doesn't actually whip them).

With rising temperatures, winter weather in the Alps has become increasingly unpredictable, leading many lower ski resorts to open only between mid-January and mid-March in recent years, if at all. However, the larger, higher resorts (like Serre Chevalier, Les Trois Vallées, and Les Portes du Soleil) reliably operate from early to mid-December through mid-April. The ski season in the Pyrenées also spans from December to April.

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Beyond skiing, this season also invites a variety of unique snowy adventures. Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are especially favored in lower-altitude regions such as the pre-Alpine massifs (Chartreuse, Vercors, and the Bauges), Jura, and the central Auvergne. Even high-altitude ski resorts are adapting their offerings due to climate change, with popular alternatives like ice karting in Serre Chevalier Briancon, ice diving in Tignes, and cold-water paddleboarding on the glacial waters of Lake Annecy.

From January to March, carnival festivities come alive, with the two most famous celebrations taking place at opposite ends of the country: Nice and Dunkirk (the latter is known for its quirky tradition of tossing herring into the crowd). Meanwhile, Menton, close to the Italian border, celebrates its endless summer with its annual lemon festival from mid-February to early March.

Experience the warm southern sunshine in May and June with fewer tourists around

Festivals truly come alive in France starting in May, thanks to several public holidays (Labour Day on May 1, Victory Day on May 8, and Ascension Day on May 9). Many locals take advantage of these holidays to extend their weekends. The massive electro festival Nuits Sonores transforms former factories and slaughterhouses in Lyon into a five-day celebration. On June 21, the longest day of the year, La Fête de la Musique fills the streets of major cities and many smaller towns with free music. Additionally, Cannes hosts its renowned film festival in May, attracting stars from around the globe.

Surf enthusiasts flock to the southwest coast in May, when the waves are consistently good (though June to August is more suited for beginners). From late May to mid-June, the French Open tennis tournament takes place at Roland Garros in Paris. By late June, the lavender fields of Provence burst into bloom, painting the landscape a vibrant purple.

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July and August are prime holiday months for the French

Summer is the perfect season to tackle some of France’s toughest and highest-altitude hikes, such as the GR20, Tour de Mont Blanc, and Tour des Ecrins, as most of the snow has melted. Coastal areas, especially the Côte d’Azur, become incredibly crowded with both local and international visitors, but everything will definitely be open for business.

Inland cities, including Paris, often slow down significantly in August, as many business owners close their shops to take vacations. This makes it one of the quietest times to visit the French capital (except for Disneyland, where prices and occupancy soar during the summer). Additionally, hotel rates are typically at their lowest. However, in 2024, Paris will be hosting the Olympic and Paralympic Games, leading to a spike in hotel prices due to increased demand.

The Tour de France, France’s most renowned sporting event, mainly takes place in July, with cyclists racing approximately 3,500 km across the country. The route varies each year.

From September to November, it's time to uncork the wine

Late August to mid-September marks the grape harvest across France’s key wine regions: the Loire, Bordeaux, Languedoc-Roussillon, Champagne, Bourgogne, and the Rhône Valley. Independent winemakers embark on a tour showcasing their products, starting with the Independent Winemakers’ Showrooms in mid-October.

Following the harvest, the first wine to be celebrated is Beaujolais Nouveau on the third weekend of November, accompanied by lively open-door tastings at châteaux throughout Beaujolais and France’s most festive fancy dress wine marathon, featuring at least 15 tastings along the way.

In true French style, the celebration of gastronomy takes center stage. Culinary festivals across the nation are both quirky and delightful, often coinciding with the harvest season. The Ardèche hosts a series of chestnut festivities (Les Castagnades), and at Lautrec’s Pink Garlic Festival (early August), it’s not unusual for garlic to find its way into the wine.

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