The ideal time to explore Lyon

Anna, a local of Lyon, has documented the city for our France guidebook. In this piece, she reveals the best times to visit Lyon.

A unique feature of Lyon is its year-round appeal, much like a flannel shirt that suits both summer evenings and winter layers. It’s a city that feels genuine rather than touristy, with vibrant events happening throughout the year, regardless of when you visit. 

Lyon experiences true seasons. Winters are predictably cold, with daytime temperatures around 4 ℃ (39℉), but many days are bright and clear, allowing glimpses of the snow-capped Mont Blanc from Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière, perched atop the city's highest hill. 

Summer brings soaring temperatures, averaging in the low 20s ℃ (60-85℉), but it’s not unusual for the heat to climb into the mid-30s (95℉). Fortunately, the city’s many parks and the lush banks of the River Rhône provide plenty of shady spots for picnics. Rainfall is generally less frequent than in many French cities, though May and October are typically the wettest months. 

Even in less-than-ideal weather, Lyon offers an abundance of museums, galleries, and restaurants to satisfy even the most energetic traveler. 

September to November marks the wine season

If you ask a local how many rivers flow through Lyon, they might say “three,” leaving you to ponder the map for the elusive third. This river is a deep garnet red: wine. With Beaujolais to the north and the Rhône Valley to the south, Lyon’s residents enjoy ample wine throughout the year. September signals harvest time, and the vineyards surrounding the city buzz with activity. 

In October, independent winemakers showcase their products at the Salon des Vignerons Indépendants. Forget what you find at Carrefour; hundreds of winemakers from across the country gather, and for a modest entry fee, you can sample wines from Hauts-de-France to Corsica. Pro tip: those who charm the winemakers often enjoy larger tasting portions. Beaujolais Nouveau debuts on the third weekend of November, celebrated in Lyon with nearly the same enthusiasm as in Beaujolais, where the Beaujolais Wine Marathon sees over 20,000 runners dashing through the vineyards in flamboyant costumes instead of Lycra.

From December to March, enjoy clear blue skies and cozy candlelit evenings

Lyon's nearest ski slope is just 90 minutes away, and some of the best skiing in the Alps is only two hours from the city. Lyonnais residents know they don’t need to spend a fortune on a chalet or endure a blizzard; they can hit the slopes for the day when the weather is nice and return in time for dinner. Skimania offers day packages (transport and ski pass) for as low as €60, or €30 for hikers (just bring earplugs to muffle the lively students on the bus). 

On the weekend closest to December 8th, a third of Lyon’s annual tourists flock to the city for the Fête des Lumières, the largest light show in France. Projections illuminate the Hôtel de Ville, Cathédrale Saint-Jean, and the expansive urban park, La Tête d’Or, among many other locations. Candles light up windows in Vieux Lyon (the Old Town) and all the way up to Fourvière. Book your accommodation well in advance to ensure a spot.

From April to July, Lyon comes alive

While every month is a celebration, visiting Lyon during these months may leave your calendar busier than a highway at rush hour. Late April brings the beer festival, shattering the notion that Lyon is only about wine. 

Kicking off in early May, the five-day electro festival Nuits Sonores takes over the old SNCF locomotive factories in southern Lyon. 

In June, the city hosts a massive street food festival, featuring demonstrations and tastings by top chefs, while the renowned jazz festival, Jazz à Vienne, transforms a thousand-year-old Roman amphitheater, just 30 minutes south of Lyon, into a breathtaking concert venue. 

Not to be overshadowed by its smaller neighbor, Lyon’s own amphitheater hosts two months of concerts in June and July, known as Nuits de Fourvière. The smaller Roman amphitheater in the city center also gets in on the action, transforming into the experimental theater festival, Le Nid de Poule. 

If lively parties aren't your thing, rent a bike and discover the numerous trails in and around the city before the heat sets in, especially the ViaRhôna, which stretches all the way from Geneva to the Mediterranean. 

August is ideal for those looking to escape the crowds.

From mid-July to the end of August, the people of Lyon flee the city’s heat for the mountains and the coast. Temperatures plummet, and securing a reservation at even the trendiest new restaurant becomes a breeze—unless they’ve closed for the month. While you’ll need to brave the heat and plan ahead (never assume a restaurant or bar is open in August; always verify), if you’re keen to enjoy a luxurious experience in Lyon on a budget, August is an incredible opportunity.