The Maldives Before Mass Tourism

The Maldives: with its turquoise waters, powdery white beaches, breathtaking sunsets, and undeniable luxury.

Hard to imagine now, but there was a time when the Maldives wasn’t the extravagant escape it’s known for today.

When Mohamed Umar 'MU' Maniku and three friends opened Kurumba, the Maldives' first resort, in 1972, there wasn’t even a dock. Guests had to wade through waist-high water to reach the shore from the boat.

The inaugural visitors to the resort were primarily Italian journalists and photographers.

Though glass-bottom villas and seaplane rides were still a distant dream, it was evident that the Maldives was already casting its spell. Today, over 100 resorts span across more than 1,200 islands.

Kurumba, which means 'coconut' in the local Dhihevi language, began as an untouched coconut plantation. Today, it boasts all the luxurious amenities expected of a top-tier Maldives resort.

Still, it’s charming to reflect on how things were in the early days of Maldives tourism. Many refer to MU as 'the man who built paradise,' and he certainly earned that title.

The first accommodations were crafted from coral and limestone. Anything not locally sourced had to be shipped in, sometimes taking up to three months to arrive.

Newspapers were often delayed by months, and phone services were hit or miss. If you forgot toothpaste, you were on your own — there were no shops on the island.

Before tourism took hold, the island where Kurumba now stands was home to only about two residents.

Forget about stand-up paddleboarding classes or being whisked away on a speedboat to a secluded island for a candlelit dinner — those experiences didn’t exist back then.

With limited activities available, travelers mostly spent their time fishing or basking in the sun — and perhaps overindulging in the latter.

"They were very happy," MU recalls. "Some of them, you know, stayed out in the sun so long they turned into lobsters."

Today, Kurumba is all about luxurious villas and fine dining, but MU's memories of the early days make it sound more like a laid-back hippie retreat.

"We used to have an open pit barbecue, and then someone would play the guitar," MU recalls with a smile.

In those early guest rooms, the water from the taps was brackish, and the toilets could best be described as... unconventional.

Bringing guests to a remote, isolated island in the Indian Ocean might have seemed like a gamble, but for MU, it was the most sensible decision he could make. "I never doubted it," he reflects.

Fortunately, some traditions have remained the same. Coconuts are still harvested the old-fashioned way — climbing the trees by hand, which is trickier than it sounds.

The awe-inspiring views that originally attracted visitors to this tropical paradise are just as stunning now as they were when MU was a young boy. And even as an older man past typical retirement age, he can’t bring himself to leave.

"If I can’t come here every single day and walk around, it feels like something's missing in my life," he confesses.

MU isn't the only one so enchanted by the Maldivian islands' beauty that they never want to leave.

Denise Schmidt originally arrived from Germany for an internship at a hotel in the Maldives. Today, she lives there with her husband, Ali Amir, managing the Reethi Beach Resort on the tranquil Baa Atoll, raising their young daughter in paradise.

What was supposed to be a six-month stay for Schmidt has turned into many years. It’s easy to see how anyone could fall under the spell of the breathtaking scenery and decide to call this place home forever.

"I think there’s an island here for everyone, with something to suit every taste and preference," Schmidt says, though it's hard to imagine anyone not falling in love with one of these islands.

Living on a remote island can feel isolating, but during the pandemic, the Maldives has turned this isolation into an advantage.

While many destinations have been forced to close their doors, the Maldives has largely stayed open—though a recent spike in cases has led to stricter restrictions.

Even before the outbreak of Covid-19, the Maldives faced its own challenges. Rising sea levels and climate change posed a serious existential threat, leading some to propose the radical idea of relocating the entire country.

The fragile ecosystem of the Maldives is evident beneath the surface, where snorkeling safaris reveal coral beds that are being damaged by pollution, erosion, and climate change.

Hussain 'Sendi' Rasheed, considered the father of Maldivian diving, became the nation's first PADI-certified Instructor Trainer in 1986. As tourism grew, he began training more and more divers, and now over 1,600 students have followed in his footsteps.

"You emerge feeling like a new person," he says about the underwater experience. And with the constant, joyful smile on his face, it's clear that Rasheed speaks from experience.

However, teaching diving is just a small part of Rasheed's true passion—preserving the Maldivian waters.

Rasheed has fought to ban shark hunting for sport and the sale of shark teeth as souvenirs. His efforts paid off in 2010 when the Maldives became one of the few nations worldwide to impose a complete ban on shark fishing. His induction into the International Scuba Diving Hall of Fame in 2019 solidified his status as a protector of the seas.

"Every species here matters to us," he says, gazing over the crystal-clear waters. While sharks may seem intimidating, they play a crucial role in the underwater food chain. Coral shelters fish, and fish nourish sharks. The balance of life exists just below the surface.

Imagine enjoying a luxury beach vacation while also contributing to the preservation of the ocean for future generations. What's more relaxing than that?