The Michelin Guide arrived in Singapore in 2016, marking a new era for its culinary scene.

Was there ever any question about Singapore's place among the world's top dining capitals? Not anymore, with the Michelin Guide now part of its gastronomic landscape.

The prestigious Michelin stars were awarded to 29 establishments in Singapore, including two street food vendors, showcasing the city's rich culinary diversity.

Among the winners was Joël Robuchon, the acclaimed French restaurant that earned the coveted three-star distinction, under the guidance of the legendary chef himself.

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The fee covered a multi-course tasting menu curated by Robuchon, featuring a lineup of local chefs such as Malcolm Lee, owner of the one Michelin-starred Candlenut, and Cheryl Koh, the pastry chef from the two Michelin-starred Les Amis.

Restaurant Andre, a regular honoree at Asia's Best Restaurant awards, earned two Michelin stars for its culinary excellence.

Restaurant Andre, consistently ranked among Asia's top dining spots, received two Michelin stars.

A total of six restaurants were awarded two stars, including a second venue by Robuchon, L’Atelier Robuchon, along with two more French restaurants, the sushi restaurant Shoukouwa, and the Chinese dining spot Shisen Hanten.

An additional 22 establishments received a single Michelin star, including the popular street food spots Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle and Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle.

For those within Singapore’s food industry, the arrival of the Michelin Guide is a significant event, though not without its share of debate.

Litti Kewkacha, a restaurateur from Bangkok and theme park owner who visits Singapore five to six times annually, shares, 'It’s thrilling to see the Michelin Guide come to Singapore.'

'Singapore has long been targeting luxury and high-net-worth travelers, attracting renowned chefs and major investment in its restaurant scene,' says Kewkacha.

'At this level, restaurants are competing not just locally but on the global stage, and Michelin ratings will significantly enhance Singapore's reputation,' he adds.

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A compelling reason to stay

The chefs of the city are in agreement.

'Michelin is the ultimate authority in the culinary world,' says Tetsuya Wakuda, the celebrated Japanese chef behind Sydney’s Tetsuya’s and the one Michelin-starred Waku Ghin at Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands.

'Michelin’s arrival in Singapore elevates the city and its dining scene, highlighting it as a true food destination. It’s no longer just a stopover; now, there are real reasons to stay and indulge in the food.'

'Yes, it’s a significant moment for Singapore,' says Andre Chiang, the Taiwan-born, French-trained chef-owner of two Michelin-starred Restaurant Andre. A passionate admirer of the Michelin Guide, Chiang even owns a collection of French Michelin guides dating back to the 1960s.

'While locals have their own favorite spots, the Michelin Guide will undoubtedly become the go-to source for tourists,' says Chiang, whose clientele is about 50% international visitors.

'Moreover, the guide will help distinguish top restaurants, motivating mid-tier establishments to push for that coveted first star,' Chiang adds.

Neglect of local cuisine

'The Michelin Guide holds immense global prestige,' says Jason Tan, chef-owner of the one Michelin-starred Corner House.

'We appreciate the recognition and are committed to continuing to impress our guests, while ensuring the restaurant remains busy,'

Despite being included in the Asia’s 50 Best list this year, Wild Rocket did not receive a Michelin star.

Despite the accolades, Wild Rocket, which earned a spot on the Asia’s 50 Best list, was not awarded a Michelin star.

Though widely praised, the Michelin Guide has its critics, especially among those concerned about the impact on Singapore’s homegrown chefs.

'While Singapore boasts many world-class chefs cooking at an exceptional level, we must not overlook the local talents who have worked tirelessly to take our native cuisine to new heights,' says a newly awarded Michelin-starred chef who wished to remain anonymous.

'Despite their exceptional work, some chefs have not received recognition in the Michelin Guide.'

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Indeed, several restaurants helmed by Singaporean chefs showcasing contemporary local cuisine, such as Wild Rocket – which debuted at No. 38 on Asia’s 50 Best list this year – were overlooked by the Michelin Guide’s inaugural edition.

However, they are not alone in this omission.

'Given the international acclaim Burnt Ends has received, it’s baffling that David Pynt’s BBQ haven didn’t earn a Michelin star,' says Hardwi Satrio Pinandityo, a Jakarta-based entrepreneur with a passion for food.

Burnt Ends made its debut on the World’s 100 Best list this year, ranking at No. 70. It also earned a spot at No. 14 on Asia’s 50 Best list in 2016.

As in other Asian cities, Michelin has collaborated with local tourism authorities.

'I think that’s fair,' says Kewkacha. 'You pay to bring them into the country, but inspectors must remain impartial when assessing each restaurant.'

'It’s almost insulting,' Kewkacha comments.

However, Kewkacha raised concerns over the practice of having private companies act as sponsors.

'Especially when the sponsors own restaurants that are themselves under evaluation for stars,' he adds.

He points out that four restaurants from sponsor Resorts World Sentosa – Forest, Osia, L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and Joël Robuchon Restaurant – each earned Michelin stars.

'The Michelin Guide is the most esteemed and influential culinary guide worldwide,' says Kewkacha. 'I just hope it doesn’t lose its integrity due to the involvement of sponsors, especially with this being the first time it’s happened publicly in Singapore.'

The ‘hawkerpreneurs’ preserving Singapore’s street food heritage

Discontent was further fueled when Michelin Singapore released its inaugural Bib Gourmand results last week, highlighting restaurants offering quality food at affordable prices.

Yeoh Wee Teck, a food writer for Singapore’s New Paper, expressed frustration that despite the island being home to 15,000 food stalls or hawkers, only 34 establishments (14 restaurants, 17 hawker stalls, and 3 food stalls in coffee shops) were awarded Michelin stars.

'Can these results truly reflect the vast diversity of our hawker culture, especially when some beloved local favorites are missing from the list?' he questioned, calling the limited selection 'almost insulting.'

Here is the 2016 list: