The New Renaissance of Roman Pizza

The area outside Pizzarium, Gabriele Bonci’s renowned pizza al taglio (by the slice) spot, is always bustling. Lunchtime crowds, food tours, and pizza enthusiasts vie for space at the limited high-top tables on the pavement, savoring thick, crisp-bottomed slices piled high with toppings served on wooden boards. Inside, a long display case showcases over a dozen varieties of pizza, ready to be sliced, weighed, and reheated in a custom-built Castelli electric oven from Pigneto.

Pizzarium’s current popularity contrasts sharply with its early days. Bonci, a chef who transitioned to baking, launched his shop in 2003 on a quiet street a few blocks north of the Vatican. His innovative dough, crafted from stone-milled heirloom grains and topped with fresh, seasonal ingredients — such as sheep’s milk ricotta with zucchini, black pepper, and lemon zest — was a bold departure from Rome’s standard pizza al taglio, which typically used low-grade, mass-produced ingredients.

“Using generic ingredients was never an option for me,” Bonci explains. His pizza in teglia — a type of pizza al taglio baked in rectangular cast-iron pans — features premium flours and organic toppings. “Food should be nourishing,” he adds, “and industrial flours lose their bran and germ, stripping away their nutrition and flavor.” His innovative dough is slowly fermented in the refrigerator for several days, producing a light, flavorful pizza that is easier to digest.

Initially, Bonci’s chef-driven twist on a popular fast food was met with skepticism. Yet, his pizza proved its worth, and now, 15 years later, Pizzarium has become a landmark, with Bonci-branded bakeries in both Rome and Chicago.

Pizzarium is a leading example of a broader shift in Roman pizza-making. In recent years, a select group of innovators, like Bonci, have been reimagining Rome’s classic flatbread. This new wave of pizza-making emphasizes ingredient quality, slow fermentation, and creativity. Despite their unique styles, these “third-wave” pizzaiolos share a common focus on experimentation and high standards.

At 180g Pizzeria Romana in Centocelle, Jacopo Mercuro and Mirko Rizzo present round pizze tonde in the traditional pizza romana style, known for its thin crust and subtle cornicione (raised edge). True to its name, each pizza is crafted from 180 grams of dough, hand-stretched before baking. “We aimed to revive pizza as it was once made,” says Mercuro, when quality ingredients were rare and a great pizza romana was hard to find. 180g’s pies are topped with meticulously sourced, primarily local ingredients, featuring classics like margherita and marinara, as well as inventive combinations such as tender porchetta and a twist on the local favorite, amatriciana.

“When I joined, I was encouraged to push boundaries,” says Luca Pezzetta, a former Bonci protégé and the chef behind the standout pizzas at the new Roman brewpub L’Osteria di Birra del Borgo. Here, Pezzetta’s thick-crusted, pre-sliced pizze tonde feature inventive toppings like creamy burrata paired with crispy toasted hazelnuts. This approach experiments with temperature and texture contrasts, marking a significant shift from Rome’s traditional oven-baked toppings. “I approach pizza toppings like individual dishes,” Pezzetta explains. “Each component is prepared separately and then layered onto the crust.”

In addition to his pizze tonde, Pezzetta creates impressive variations of oblong pizza alla pala, pizza in teglia, and a unique item he calls trrranch — sandwiches made with pizza dough. These inventive creations feature sheet pan-baked pizza filled with ingredients like salami, cheese, arugula, and artichokes cooked in oil and herbs. The trrranch can be enjoyed individually or as part of a degustazione (tasting menu), showcasing Pezzetta’s diverse pizza styles, many of which are typically found at fast-food spots. “Pizza in teglia is usually quick fare, but people appreciate it more when served at a table with proper service,” Pezzetta notes.

What was once a niche trend, pizza a degustazione, has become mainstream. Traditionally, round Roman pizzas are served whole, intended for individual consumption. The idea of sharing pizzas was popularized in Rome over a decade ago by Edoardo Papa of the renowned In Fucina, where pizzas are presented one by one, pre-sliced, allowing diners to sample various toppings and share. This concept has gained traction, with new establishments like Pier Daniele Seu’s Seu Pizza Illuminati in southern Trastevere offering a range of seasonal pizzas alongside classics like margherita, marinara, and diavola. Patrons can choose from a la carte options or opt for a guided multi-course pizza tasting.

A decade ago, serving unconventional flavors in a tasting menu format would have been deemed sacrilege by most Romans — but times have changed. “First-time visitors might stick to the classics,” says Seu, “but once they grasp my approach and truly appreciate what I’m offering, they’ll seek out those traditional toppings elsewhere.”

Pizzarium, Via della Meloria, 43, 00136 Rome180g Pizzeria Romana, Via Tor de’ Schiavi, 53, 00172 RomeL’Osteria di Birra del Borgo, Via Silla, 26a, 00192 RomeIn Fucina, Via Giuseppe Lunati, 25/31, 00149 RomeSeu Pizza Illuminati, Via Angelo Bargoni, 10 - 18, 00153 Rome

Discover 20 of Rome’s must-visit pizzerias here.

Katie Parla is a Rome-based cookbook author, food journalist, educator, and culinary guide.