The Portuguese Cataplana Creates Spectacular Dishes Effortlessly

In French dining, food is often unveiled under shiny silver cloches, adding an element of drama. In the Algarve, however, diners are dazzled by copper cataplanas. This clam-shaped pot, resembling two stacked woks, arrives at the table like a gleaming, reddish-brown spacecraft. When servers unlock the sides and lift the lid, a fragrant cloud of steam fills the air, carrying the delicious aromas of pork, shellfish, garlic, and herbs. It's truly a showstopper.

The appearance of a cataplana — referring both to the robust dish and the metal pot it's served in — heralds an exceptional dining experience, packed with rich flavors that come from long cooking, high heat, or, as with the cataplana, a touch of pressure cooking. The Portuguese clamshell is seen as a predecessor to the modern pressure cooker, offering complex tastes along with a bit of theatrical flair.

This pot is steeped in history. A version of the cataplana appears in Opera dell’arte del cucinare, the 1570 cookbook by Italian Renaissance chef Bartolomeo Scappi, who catered to multiple popes. As noted by Algarve: Cataplana Story, it may also be linked to alchemical stills used by the Moors in the Algarve. There's even speculation it originated from World War I soldiers who cooked using two helmets. Fátima Moura, author of Cataplana Experience, highlights the metalworkers of 1940s southeastern Portugal, who modified the prussiana, a type of oven used over embers, into the now-famous copper pots. They enhanced the clasps and redesigned them for hunters to carry, paving the way for seafood dishes and the creation of the beloved cataplana.

Regardless of its origins, historian Virgílio Gomes notes that the cataplana was revived in 20th-century Portugal as a remarkable tool for preparing dishes, especially fish and shellfish. Its appeal remains undiminished. Whether crafting seafood or meat dishes, the Portuguese pressure cooker is sure to impress any dinner gathering.

The Essential Reasons to Own One

Historically, hunters relied on cataplanas for slow, low-temperature cooking, crafting meals they could enjoy upon returning from their expeditions. Today, contemporary Portuguese chefs use them for quicker cooking, enhancing the flavors of delicate meats like clams and fish. As these ingredients cook, they release juices that transform into steam, filling the vaulted lid and building pressure to accelerate the cooking. While modern versions are made from aluminum and steel, traditional copper heats quickly and retains warmth, extracting exquisite, subtle flavors from the ingredients.

The steam not only cooks but also condenses and falls back onto the dish, creating what chef José Pinheiro of A Eira do Mel restaurant calls a constant 'aromatic rain.' He explains that this prevents any loss of liquids, intensifying the flavors. 'Everything is concentrated, and the aromas are unparalleled. I relish when one side of the fish cooks in the broth at the bottom while the other side is gently steamed on top,' Pinheiro says.

Many home cooks attempt to recreate cataplana recipes using Dutch ovens or large pots with tight lids, but Pinheiro insists that nothing can replicate the unique flavor and texture a cataplana provides. 'There are various methods to make the dish, but respecting the tradition of serving it in a proper cataplana is essential. Otherwise, it’s just a fish stew,' he remarks.

Don’t overlook the dramatic effect of unfastening the clasps and lifting the lid when it’s time to eat. In this case, the medium truly conveys the message, whisking diners away on waves of crustacean-scented steam to the sun-soaked shores of coastal Portugal. 'When the cataplana opens, we are instantly transported to the Algarve,' Moura notes.

How to Make the Most of It

The cataplana performs best over an open flame, allowing the heat to embrace the curved bottom. 'Its surface isn’t flat, so it doesn’t suit cooktops,' Pinheiro explains. 'Traditionally, it was used over a wood fire, but gas works just as well, much like a wok.'

The classic method involves layering raw ingredients before sealing the cataplana and placing it over the fire. Start with olive oil and seasonings, then add vegetables like potatoes that release moisture to create steam. Next come the proteins: traditional choices include fish or clams with pork, though Pinheiro also features chicken, partridge, and octopus with sweet potatoes in his signature dish. Top it all with herbs and spices, usually parsley and coriander. In just 15 to 20 minutes, your meal is ready.

The simplicity of the one-step recipe is part of the cataplana's charm, but if you prefer precision, it can be adapted for that as well. While most cooks seal it and let it work its magic, Pinheiro opts to open the pot periodically during cooking. 'I like to add ingredients in stages to achieve precise cooking points,' he notes. 'It’s the trickiest method since you must know the exact cooking times for each component you use.'

Where to Find One

Today, the cataplana—both the dish and the pot—can be found in Portuguese communities around the globe. Many kitchen supply stores in U.S. cities carry cataplanas, and you can also order one online from Amazon.