The restaurant where Italian mothers reign supreme in the kitchen

Like many Italians abroad, Peppe Corsaro longed for his mother’s home-cooked meals.

Originally from Sicily, Corsaro moved to London at the age of 16, and quickly began to miss the flavors and traditions of home – particularly the lively Sunday feasts, where mothers and grandmothers would prepare classic dishes for a lengthy, outdoor meal that often stretched into the night.

After establishing himself in the restaurant industry, Corsaro was having a casual evening out with friends when one of them jokingly suggested he bring his mother over to cook.

He took the idea to heart and decided to make it a reality.

I thought to myself, why not? So I picked up the phone and called my mom. She replied, ‘I’ll be there tomorrow.’

And that’s how La Mia Mamma came to life. What started as a pop-up in 2018 has now grown into two thriving restaurants and a deli.

Mamma’s cooking

The concept is straightforward: authentic Italian mothers and grandmothers are selected from one of Italy's 20 regions.

They relocate to London for a three-month stint, bringing their traditional regional dishes to life, before passing the chef’s apron to another group of mammas from a different part of Italy.

It’s a fascinating arrangement, given how diverse Italian cuisine is across its various regions.

While many dishes commonly associated with Italian cuisine – such as lasagna, tortellini, prosciutto crudo, ragù, and parmigiana – originate from Emilia Romagna, there is a wealth of regional variety and hidden culinary gems waiting to be uncovered, often in destinations that most tourists overlook.

At present, La Mia Mamma is spotlighting the regions of Campania and Lazio, two neighboring areas in southwestern Italy, home to the iconic cities of Naples and Rome.

Classic recipes

Lazio's culinary scene has gained increasing attention in recent years, with iconic dishes like carbonara, amatriciana, and cacio e pepe – a deceptively simple pasta made with just four ingredients, yet one of the most difficult to perfect due to its delicate preparation.

However, the region's 'cucina popolare' (comfort food) also boasts lesser-known delicacies like coda alla vaccinara, a rich oxtail stew that remains a rarity outside of Lazio.

Each restaurant is staffed by three mammas, who are initially screened through social media in Italy.

'We’re not searching for professional chefs, but for home cooks who prepare meals for their families,' explains Corsaro. Once selected, the chosen mammas are flown to London for a trial period, after which they receive accommodation, transportation, and a salary comparable to that of a sous chef.

Most of the mammas, who are typically in their sixties and often retired, have never lived abroad before.

Each mamma brings her own cherished recipes, ensuring they’re meticulously prepared with the support of skilled kitchen staff.

Three-month stints

The mammas' influence extends beyond the kitchen: with open kitchens visible from the street, curious passersby can watch them in action, and the mammas are always eager to interact with guests.

“You’ll find them everywhere, constantly encouraging people to sample whatever they’ve prepared. They’re even known to dance with guests,” Corsaro explains.

The restaurants are all situated within the London Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, an area where Italians make up one of the largest foreign communities and were also the biggest group of new residents just before the Brexit referendum in 2016.

To date, no mamma has ever failed their trial, and all have settled into London life, though not without a few adaptations.

“They always tell me the city’s too vast, they’re not accustomed to traveling an hour just to reach a place, so we make sure to find them accommodation near the restaurants,” says Anna Famà, Corsaro’s mother and the first mamma.

After completing her initial stint, Anna decided to remain and now serves as a mentor, welcoming and guiding incoming mammas to help them adjust to their new surroundings.

“It’s never happened that a mamma left feeling glad to go, and those who have left often ask when they can return,” Famà shares. “Though cooking for 200 can get intense, the kitchen always maintains a calm vibe.”

“If something goes awry, we always find a way to make it right,” she says. “For me, this isn’t just a job—it’s my home. I hope that spirit is something I pass on to the mammas.”