The spicy hotdog sausage fueling protests in France

Protesting in France is a hungry affair, and when the protesters take a break from their demonstrations, they search for something to eat.

But it’s not traditional French fare they crave. Above all, protesters demand spicy hotdog sausages.

Merguez sausages made from beef and lamb, seasoned with cumin, chili, or harissa, are the street food of choice in France. These recipes, brought from North Africa, are not only popular during the recent pension reform protests but have become a staple across the country.

Merguez were there in May 1968, when student protests sparked a hunger for revolution, and again in '95, when angry crowds tore apart welfare reform plans.

When 'gilet jaune' protesters, wearing their iconic yellow vests, brought much of France to a standstill in 2018 to demand political and economic reforms, the grills were fired up and sausages sizzled once again.

Merguez sausages became so crucial to sustaining the gilet jaune movement that François Ruffin, a French politician seen as a future leader of the far left, called them a 'revolutionary tool.'

The role of sausages in fueling this year’s sometimes violent protests was noted by academic Emmanuelle Reungoat.

A maitresse de conférence – or associate professor – of political science at the University of Montpellier, Reungoat spent time engaging with demonstrators and noted that many newcomers participated simply for the chance to socialize and enjoy a barbecue.

“They brought their usual leisurely habits with them, and that’s fascinating because it’s what can turn a social movement into something much larger,” Reungoat told Dinogo. “A movement like this can evolve into an uprising or even a revolution.”

Proustian moments

France’s annual Labor Day celebration blends politics with festivity. Held every May 1st, it’s a tribute to workers' contributions and a chance for everyone to relax and enjoy a well-deserved day off.

Each year, France’s trade unions organize parades to mark the occasion. In 2023, for only the third time since World War II, they held a unified event in Paris, driven by their opposition to President Emmanuel Macron’s pension reform, which proposed raising the retirement age from 62 to 64.

And, naturally, there were merguez sausages.

As you neared the rally point at Place de la République, the smoke was visible in the distance. The savory aroma drifted down the boulevard, carried by the spring breeze. It was absolutely irresistible.

French author Marcel Proust famously wrote about how the scent of madeleine cakes could evoke memories of the past. As Le Monde described it, the scent of sausages at the rally is 'the madeleine de Proust of the workers’ movement.'

At a bustling food stall, surrounded by the delicious aroma of sizzling sausages, vendor David Joancalves expertly flipped the meat in his fryer, waiting for customers. He handed them half a baguette to hold the meat and invited them to 'help yourself to sauces,' a vibrant display of red and orange condiments lined up for choice.

Joancalves, who has been selling merguez for 15 years, has attended every protest this season. For the May 1st demonstrations, he anticipated a peaceful, festive atmosphere. 'I think it’s going to be more relaxed, there are families,' he said. However, the day ended with clashes between protesters and riot police.

‘A moment to share’

Across the square, union trucks were lined up offering better deals, their vibrant colors resembling floats in a parade. Among them, the Communist Party set up shop, selling Champagne for 5 euros a glass from the back of their truck.

The French Communist Party played a pivotal role in introducing merguez to protests in the 1950s. The sausage made its first appearance at the Humanité music festival, which was launched in 1930 to support the Communist Party's Humanité newspaper, still in publication today.

According to Nöelle Gérôme, an ethnologist at France’s National Scientific Research Center (CNRS), 'The grilled merguez became a symbol of solidarity with Maghrebian workers during the fight for Algerian independence.' Gérôme wrote this in a pioneering, and perhaps predictably unique, article about the sausage's role in French protests, edited by historian Julia Csergo.

Simple to cook and even simpler to eat, merguez quickly became a staple, often paired with 'revolutionary fries' to create affordable meals served during France's ongoing social movements.

Pierre Maunier, a railway worker, shared, 'We don’t exactly sell at a loss, but we barely make any profit. Our food truck is for all our members, for anyone who wants to eat, drink, chat, and connect – it's all about sharing a moment together.'