The story behind Phuket's only Michelin-starred restaurant

Phuket, Thailand’s largest island, is renowned for a variety of reasons.

It boasts stunning beaches, some of the world's most luxurious resorts, and serves as a gateway to the crystal-clear waters of the Andaman Sea.

But what about world-class gourmet dining?

While Phuket is home to numerous exceptional restaurants offering fantastic Thai dishes, few visitors expect a culinary experience that will make it onto their list of unforgettable fine dining moments for the year.

That was until now.

In November, Michelin unveiled its 2019 Thailand Guide. Unlike the inaugural 2018 edition, this version featured two destinations outside Bangkok: Phuket and Phang Nga.

However, only one restaurant in these regions earned a Michelin star – Pru.

Located within the luxurious Trisara resort, Pru – which means 'plant, raise, understand' – opened in 2016 and is helmed by Dutch chef Jim Ophorst.

To call it merely another farm-to-table fine dining spot would be a severe understatement of Ophorst’s achievements.

Every dish is crafted with ingredients sourced from across Thailand, highlighting the flavors of the Andaman Sea. This includes sustainable, organic produce harvested from the resort’s 16,000-square-meter farm in the island's northeastern region.

And it's not just the familiar ingredients like Phuket lobster or locally grown kale. Ophorst’s creations incorporate unusual elements such as locally foraged pine needles and sea grapes, a type of seaweed caviar.

The Road to Success

Ophorst's rise has been remarkably swift, especially considering his age.

At just 29, Ophorst began his culinary journey in Thailand six years ago, when he was brought on by Trisara for restaurant consultancy after honing his skills in various European kitchens, including in the Netherlands.

After six months of interning at Gaggan – which was named Asia’s best restaurant for four consecutive years – Ophorst returned to Trisara.

Impressed by his work, the resort management asked him to create a high-end dining experience, offering Ophorst full creative control over the kitchen.

“They told me, ‘This is your space. Do whatever you want,’” recalls Ophorst.

“That’s when we came up with the idea for Pru – we wanted to create something truly unique,”

At first, his vision was to follow an 80/20 approach – using 80% locally sourced ingredients and 20% imports.

However, after seeing what was available locally and what could be grown on the resort’s farm, they decided to take it a step further and commit entirely to ingredients sourced from within Thailand.

“It’s all about sourcing and showcasing what Thailand can offer the world, but not through traditional Thai cuisine – rather, through European-inspired dishes,” he explains.

“It’s about the experience. We guide our guests on a journey from the moment they arrive until the moment they leave.”

Since its opening just over two years ago, Pru has quickly become a sensation, with local travel and food media dubbing it the hottest new dining destination in Thailand’s culinary scene.

The menu evolves every few months, but perfecting a new dish can take up to six months, according to Ophorst.

It’s clear why the creation process is so meticulous – Ophorst is a true innovator in the kitchen.

While the complexity and depth of every dish is impressive, it’s particularly mind-blowing to see how Ophorst transforms everyday vegetables into something extraordinary.

“Typically, protein is the star of the dish, but at Pru, vegetables often take center stage,” explains the chef.

One dish features cauliflower stems cooked in brown butter, paired with bone marrow cream, wild mushrooms, and sardine powder.

Another dish involves carrots cooked “in the soil they grew in,” complemented by fermented carrot juice and cured egg yolk sourced from the farm.

“The carrots really embody what Pru is all about,” says Ophorst.

“Simple. Few ingredients, yet packed with incredible flavor. What we do is unique, and that’s something many guests also remark on. That’s exactly what we want – to be different, not the same,”

The restaurant offers three six-course tasting menus, including a vegetarian option, with the choice of wine pairings.

How Trisara Maintains Its Position at the Top

The fact that Pru is located within one of Thailand’s most prestigious beach resorts certainly adds to its allure.

Nestled on a private beach at the northwestern tip of Phuket, Trisara has been a leading luxury destination for over a decade, consistently remaining at the top of the market.

The resort consists of 39 cliffside pool villas and suites, each featuring its own infinity pool and breathtaking views of the Andaman Sea. (Privacy is a key element here – which is part of why Trisara made our list of the world’s best spots for a skinny dip.)

Trisara’s success, according to managing director Anthony Lark from Australia, is the result of several factors, including a commitment to keeping the property fresh and up-to-date.

“What keeps Trisara ahead of the curve is our continuous focus on renovation, innovation, and meticulous attention to maintenance,” Lark shares with Dinogo Travel.

“We’re always aiming to stay ahead of the trends with technology. One of the advantages of being an independent property is that if we see something that needs changing or have a brilliant idea, we can implement it right away. Larger hotel chains can’t be that nimble.”

The resort’s eco-conscious philosophy also aligns with Pru’s dedication to sustainability.

The resort avoids using chemicals in its gardens or chlorine in its pools. All rainwater is collected for garden use during dry spells, and drinking water is purified through reverse osmosis, served in reusable glass bottles.

“I firmly believe that true luxury comes from the experience, not the product,” says Lark. “It’s all about surpassing guests’ expectations.”

Trisara, 60/1 Moo 6, Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Phuket; +66 (0)76 310 100