Mexico’s Inaugural Michelin Guide Launches With 18 Starred Restaurants—Including a Taco Stand

The newly released first edition of the Michelin Mexico Guide features 16 one-star restaurants and two with two stars, representing six states—Oaxaca, CDMX, Quintana Roo, Baja California, Baja California Sur, and Nuevo León. For those observing Mexico's rising status in the culinary scene, this recognition from the esteemed guide likely feels long overdue.

This sentiment is surely shared by Mexico City’s pioneering modern Mexican eatery, Pujol, now one of only two restaurants in the nation to earn two Michelin stars. Established in 2000, Pujol is celebrated for its intricate Madre Molé, aged a record 3,433 days (and counting) as of June 7, 2024, and praised for its seasonal tasting menu. It consistently appears on lists like World’s 50 Best Restaurants and Best Restaurants in North America. Chef-owner Enrique Olvera gained international attention for Pujol through an episode of Netflix’s Chef’s Table in 2016.

The second restaurant in Mexico to achieve two Michelin stars is Quintonil, also situated in the upscale Polanco area of Mexico City. Michelin highlights the elegant contemporary cuisine created by chef Jorge Vallejo and his wife, Alejandra Flores, praising its refined creativity and use of local and unconventional ingredients. A standout dish was the crab in pipián verde, a traditional Mexican sauce made with pureed greens and seeds, which inspectors particularly enjoyed during their research.

While the star awards for Pujol and Quintonil were anticipated, others were more surprising, especially Taqueria El Califa de León, a 100-square-foot taco stand in the lesser-known San Rafael neighborhood of Mexico City. Taqueria El Califa de León has now become the first taco stand ever to receive a Michelin star, though there has been some debate over whether this humble establishment, which offers just four menu items, deserved this recognition.

At Taqueria El Califa de León, there are no tables or chairs; patrons eagerly await their made-to-order tacos, holding vibrant plastic plates overhead. This modest 56-year-old establishment operates with a team of two: chef Arturo Riviera Martinez manning the grill and an assistant preparing fresh corn tortillas. The limited menu focuses on four types of beef or pork tacos (bistec, chuleta, constilla, and gaonera), served simply with lime and the option of homemade red or green salsa on top.

In a conversation with the Associated Press, Riviera Martinez shared that the secret to his tacos lies in their simplicity and the “quality of the meat.” Michelin inspectors echoed this, noting the taqueria’s standout quality during multiple visits, emphasizing its high-grade ingredients and straightforward yet skillful approach. “It’s about the meat and the tortilla, without any fuss or embellishments,” Michelin explains. “Their technical skill shines through, and with only four options, they can consistently uphold their standards.” Priced at about $5 per taco, it may seem steep for a CDMX taco stand where tacos typically cost around $3, but it’s a bargain for a Michelin-starred meal, especially when paired with Riviera Martinez’s suggested beverage, a Coke.

Alongside Taqueria El Califa de León, other one-Michelin-star restaurants in this inaugural guide include Em, Esquina Común, Rosetta, and Sud 77 in CDMX; Animalón, Damiana, and Conchas de Piedra in Baja California; Cocina de Autor Los Cabos in Los Cabos; Levadura de Olla Restaurante and Los Danzantes Oaxaca in Oaxaca; KOLI Cocina de Origen and Pangea in Nuevo León; and Le Chique, HA’, and Cocina de Autor Riviera Maya in Quintana Roo.

The first Michelin Mexico Guide also recognized 42 establishments as Bib Gourmands. While not as prestigious as Michelin stars, receiving a Bib Gourmand is still a significant honor. For context, there are currently 2,906 restaurants with one Michelin star and 3,223 designated as Bib Gourmands.

Established in 1997, the Bib Gourmand award highlights places where diners can enjoy an exceptional meal at a great value. The criteria for this award are more flexible than those for Michelin stars and vary by location, with the meal's overall value assessed against the local cost of living.

In addition, six restaurants—primarily located in Baja California or Baja California Sur—were awarded the Michelin Green Star, a designation introduced in 2020. The Michelin Green Star recognizes exceptional establishments that lead in sustainability and eco-friendly practices in gastronomy. The honored restaurants include Acre and Flora’s Field Kitchen in San Jose del Cabo; Deckman’s En El Mogar and Conchas de Piedra in Valle de Guadalupe; Lunario in El Porviner; and Los Danzantes Oaxaca in Oaxaca.