The U.K. Coast: A Paradise for Puffin Enthusiasts

As a filmmaker, I've traveled the globe, witnessing some of nature’s most spectacular wildlife moments. I've seen wildebeest migrate across the Serengeti, tracked blue sheep in the Himalayas, and searched for snow leopards and ibex in the towering peaks of Tajikistan. Yet, I’ve often overlooked the marvels right in my native Scotland, including one of the country's most remarkable species: the Atlantic puffin.

Their almost whimsical, painted faces attract countless summer visitors to nesting sites along the British coast; their gentle and curious demeanor often leads to unforgettable close encounters. It's common for adult puffins to waddle over to nearby observers, approaching within a few feet and tilting their heads in curiosity as they assess this new addition to their colony. However, until this year, I had never spotted one, even though there’s a well-known nesting site at Fowlsheugh Nature Reserve, just 40 minutes from my home in Angus, Scotland.

This past July—after taking a break from travel to stay home—I hopped in my truck with my dad and made the brief journey to Fowlsheugh. The reserve, managed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds, may not be the most prolific site in the U.K. for nesting puffins, but it provides easy access for visitors to the east coast of Scotland. Alongside the puffins that make the reserve their summer haven, over 130,000 seabirds come here to nest each summer. Guillemots, razorbills, kittiwakes, and fulmars all benefit from the protection offered by nearly 200-foot-high cliffs, with the North Sea supplying ample food for their young.

Upon arriving at the Fowlsheugh car park with my dad, we found it deserted—it seemed we would have the cliffs all to ourselves. After a 15-minute walk, we paused at an observation hut, having followed the painted signs leading us toward a potential puffin sighting. However, there were none to be seen, and I felt doubtful about spotting any amidst the aerial display of tens of thousands of seabirds swooping and diving around the cliffs.

Yet, with a bit of calm and patience, our efforts soon paid off. After just a few minutes scanning the sandy banks, my first Atlantic puffin appeared: a lone bird, standing out among the gray gulls and black razorbills. With its quirky behavior and appearance, I finally grasped why it’s affectionately known as the clown of the sea. Before long, we spotted more scattered across the cliffs, each one mesmerizing in its charm.

Although I didn’t encounter any pufflings—yes, that’s what baby puffins are called—I left feeling fulfilled. I had watched adult puffins flying back and forth to their nesting burrows, along with an astonishing array of other seabirds—a scene I will always treasure. It served as a reminder of the importance of exploring your own backyard; sometimes, you don’t realize what you’re missing until you seek it out.

When and where to see puffins in the U.K.

Adult Atlantic puffins—one of four puffin species worldwide—begin appearing on U.K. shorelines in late March, with the best opportunities for sightings in June and July. By mid-August, they start to return to the sea.

Each summer, over half a million breeding pairs gather along the U.K. coast, but like many seabird populations, their numbers have seen sharp declines in recent years. In 2015, the Atlantic puffin's conservation status was changed from “least concern” to “vulnerable” by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. This decline is largely due to overfishing of their primary food source—sand eels—and climate change, which affects the migratory routes of their prey.

The largest nesting populations are usually found on islands off the coast, requiring a bit more planning. Here’s how to turn your puffin-spotting dreams into reality.

Farne Islands, Northumberland

This archipelago is situated off the eastern coast of the U.K. To reach the Farne Islands, take a ferry from Seahouses Harbour, which is about a 60-minute ride one way, located an hour north of Newcastle, England. Boat trips operate daily from April to September, weather permitting.

Bempton Cliffs, Yorkshire

The Bempton Cliffs reserve is just a 30-minute drive from Scarborough, England. The striking white chalk cliffs are open year-round but are most breathtaking from April to October when seabirds, including puffins, establish their nests.

Skomer Island, Pembrokeshire

A reservation is required to visit Skomer Island in Wales, with a daily limit of 250 visitors to minimize environmental impact. You can book in advance for the 15-minute ferry ride, and options for cruises or overnight stays are also available.

Sumburgh Head, Shetland Islands

The Sumburgh Head reserve is located at the southern tip of mainland Shetland, typically accessed by plane from most mainland U.K. airports. Explore the marine life center, visit the operational lighthouse, and watch for seabirds.

Isles of Scilly

Ferry travel is the most popular way to reach the Isles of Scilly off the Cornish coast. From March to November, Isles of Scilly Travel, part of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group, operates the daily Scillonian III passenger ferry from Penzance.

You can also fly to the Isles of Scilly via Isles of Scilly Travel from Exeter (available March to October), Newquay (from May to December), and Land’s End (year-round), landing on the main island of St. Mary’s.

How to get ready for bird-watching

From my years of nature watching, I've found that a bit of preparation can significantly enhance the experience. Bringing a flask of coffee and a snack helps keep hunger at bay. A foam pad for sitting adds comfort, while a rain jacket, gloves, and hat prepare you for any sudden weather changes—typical of a British summer! And whether I'm fishing, hiking, or searching for puffins, I always carry binoculars. They allow for a closer look at nature without disturbing wildlife. When the walk isn’t too far, I also bring along a spotting scope and my camera to capture the moment.