The Ultimate Adventure Itinerary for Roatán — Featuring Scuba Diving, Waterfall Rappelling, and a Touch of Relaxation on the Beach

After checking my scuba gear, I rolled back into the crystal-clear water and entered a vibrant world of brightly colored corals, massive barrel sponges, delicate sea fans, and shimmering fish. I floated in silent wonder as schools of indigo-hued creole wrasses zipped through beams of sunlight, while a cluster of garden eels peeked out from the ocean floor like tiny periscopes.

For years, fellow divers had claimed that Honduras’ coral reefs rival those of nearby Belize, known as a diver’s paradise. After six days, I was a believer. I also realized why this region has become a sought-after ecotourism spot, thanks to its fewer crowds, affordable prices, and pristine keys.

My journey commenced at the airport on Roatán, a slender island off the northern coast of Honduras. The customs line was bustling with middle-aged Americans exchanging stories about the island’s top diving spots and where to encounter six-foot manta rays, hawksbill turtles, and seahorses. Roatán is situated at the southern tip of the six-mile-long Mesoamerican Reef (the second largest in the world after the Great Barrier Reef) and actively promotes scuba diving and snorkeling to boost tourism. I could hardly wait to plunge into the water.

A half-hour taxi ride brought me to the Kimpton Grand Roatán Resort & Spa, the island’s inaugural major brand hotel, which opened last year on a stretch of golden sand at the southern end. It’s a perfect spot to witness the sunset, perhaps while lounging in a driftwood swing chair at the waterside bar. I enjoyed a Wellness suite with a sea-view terrace above the Kao Kamasa Spa, which features four therapeutic plunge pools, a glass-bottom infinity pool, and treatment rooms just steps from the ocean waves.

The hotel is just a short distance from the West End, a lively village filled with dining and nightlife options, and even nearer to several diving locations. Once I settled in, I was directed to West Bay Divers, which offers trips to over 80 dive sites within the Roatan Marine Park, a nature reserve safeguarded by a nonprofit organization of the same name.

Divemaster Karim Godoy provided me with a quick refresher (it had been a few years since my last dive) before whisking me off to Black Rock, a popular diving site just off the coast from the Kimpton. The 40-foot plunge felt like stepping through a portal into a different world. Once we reached the reef, Godoy and I swam alongside each other for 45 minutes as he highlighted a bright green sea anemone, moving sea cucumbers, spiky lionfish lurking among staghorn coral, and other fascinating creatures I had never encountered before.

Though Roatán is just about 40 miles long and five miles wide, it offers an abundance of aquatic adventures. Free divers (those who dive without tanks) can receive certification from Esteban Darhanpé at his Roatan Freediving School & Training Center. Nature enthusiasts can paddle through the protected mangroves surrounding Jonesville, a town established by Welsh settlers over a century ago. Snorkelers venture out from popular spots like West Bay Beach, Starfish Alley, and Newman’s Wall.

My favorite dive took place around Big French Key, a nearby private island, where I explored Mr. Bud, a cargo ship that was sunk in 1995 and has transformed into a coral garden attracting grouper, silversides, nudibranchs, and other marine life.

After three days of enjoying the waters of Roatán, I boarded a 70-minute ferry to La Ceiba, a vibrant party town on the mainland. It serves as a gateway to the Bay Islands (including Roatán), but the surrounding area has also developed into an eco-tourism hotspot, famous for its rich subtropical forests and stunning waterfalls.

I arrived at the Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito, a charming rustic resort situated in the Pico Bonito cloud forest, home to over 500 bird species, including toucans and motmots, as well as exotic wildlife like kinkajous, peccaries, and coatis. My spacious cabin featured rosewood floors and pine ceilings, complete with a deck surrounded by cacao trees. It felt wonderfully disconnected from technology, lacking both a USB port and a flat-screen TV.

For activities, the lodge provides outdoor adventures such as whitewater rafting on the Cangrejal River, birdwatching in the Aguan Valley, and hiking to clear swimming holes. There’s also a reptile and butterfly garden, along with a relaxing sweat lodge.

After breakfast, I hopped into a 4x4 pickup and navigated along rugged dirt paths to Las Cascadas Lodge, eager to rappel down a waterfall with my spirited guide, Olbin Lobo. As we trekked through the lush forest, Lobo pointed out a camera trap designed to capture images of wild jaguars, which are making a comeback in Honduras. Just halfway through our 40-minute hike, rain began to pound the canopy of tamboril, mahogany, and ceiba trees. By the time we arrived at the 85-foot waterfall, the water flow had increased dramatically. My heart raced as I leaned into the harness, bracing for the deluge that would hit my face, chest, and legs.

"Hurry, hurry!" Lobo shouted from the raging waters below, adrenaline surging through my body. I gripped the rope tightly, carefully finding my footing with each step. "Slow and steady," I reminded myself. "Stay calm." Each descent felt like a gamble, and I strained to hear Lobo's instructions over the roaring storm as he guided me to jump, zigzag, and sidestep down the slick rock face. After what felt like an eternity, about 15 minutes later, I finally felt solid ground beneath my drenched feet. "Welcome to the jungle," Lobo exclaimed, giving me a high-five.

This story first appeared in the April 2024 issue of Dinogo under the headline "Out of the Blue."