The Ultimate Pasta Guide to Rome

Pasta is a timeless Italian staple, showcasing remarkable diversity across the country. With hundreds of shapes and styles varying by region, pasta can be short or long, made from flour and water or eggs, crafted by hand or machine, and served fresh or dried. It can be simple or elaborate, served in broth or as a standalone dish.

Rome, located in the heart of Italy, blends the rich, sometimes egg-enriched pasta traditions of the north with the drier, flour-and-water varieties of the south. Even the most dedicated Romans revel in fresh fettuccine and hearty rigatoni with equal delight.

Over time, certain pasta shapes have paired perfectly with traditional Roman sauces, becoming iconic dishes in the city. Classics like spaghetti or rigatoni alla carbonara, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and fettuccine with chicken giblets are essential to Roman dining, symbolizing culinary harmony.

Just as a tour of Rome’s grand domes, museums, and Caravaggio masterpieces are must-sees, so is sampling the city’s quintessential pasta dishes. Here are the top places where you can savor Rome's pasta landmarks.

Tonnarelli Cacio e Pepe

The classic Roman dish of tonnarelli cacio e pepe, combining salty pecorino Romano and black pepper, has become a global sensation. It’s now featured in crispy frittelle in Brooklyn, bagel spreads in LA, and even gelato in Chicago. Originating as a remedy for overindulgence, cacio e pepe was a humble dish served in trattorias to encourage more drinking. It only gained prominence as a Roman icon in the 2000s. Traditionally, it’s prepared in a bowl with square, spaghetti-like tonnarelli, cooking water, cheese, and pepper, mixed with a fork and spoon. Modern versions use techniques to achieve a creamier texture, sparking debate on whether this is an improvement or a departure from tradition.

Where to try it: Felice in Testaccio, known for its blend of traditional and contemporary styles, serves an exceptional version of cacio e pepe. Prepared tableside, this rendition strikes a balance between classic and modern with a rich, creamy texture and generous pepper. Visit Felice at Via Mastro Giorgio, 29, 00153 Rome.

Spaghetti alla Gricia

Gricia is all about simplicity, forgoing garlic, herbs, onions, or tomatoes. The dish features guanciale, a type of cured pork jowl, crisped to release its flavorful fat. This is then combined with al dente pasta—traditionally spaghetti or rigatoni—and pecorino cheese. The sauce forms from the blend of pork fat, grated cheese, and starchy pasta water, creating a rich and savory condiment with a distinct pork flavor.

Where to enjoy it: Located on a serene street between Testaccio and Trastevere, Tavernaccia da Bruno offers a delightful gricia. They use either dried rigatoni or fresh tonnarelli and substitute pancetta for guanciale, which might irk traditionalists but pleases many others. Visit Tavernaccia di Bruno at Via Giovanni da Castel Bolognese, 63, 00153 Rome.

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

Urban legend has it that Amatriciana hails from the town of Amatrice in northern Lazio, which suffered devastating earthquakes in 2017. Since then, savoring this iconic pasta dish has become a gesture of solidarity for Romans. Originally a variation of gricia, Amatriciana was made with guanciale and pecorino, with tomatoes only being added post-World War II. Opinions vary on whether to use canned or fresh tomatoes, include onions, or add white wine to balance the richness, but the classic pasta shapes—spaghetti or bucatini—are widely accepted.

Where to enjoy it: Perilli in Testaccio serves a robust Amatriciana with sweet guanciale harmoniously combined with tomato and pecorino, all tossed with hearty bucatini. Visit Perilli at Via Marmorata, 39, 00153 Rome.

Rigatoni alla Carbonara

A classic variant on the guanciale and pecorino duo, carbonara is perhaps the most renowned of the quintessential Roman pasta dishes. Its origins are murky, sometimes linked to charcoal makers from northern Lazio or American G.I.s craving eggs and bacon. Opinions on carbonara’s preparation are passionate: whole eggs or yolks, guanciale or pancetta, pecorino or Parmesan. The key to the creamy, golden sauce is a splash of pasta-cooking water mixed with the other ingredients.

Where to savor it: Santo Palato serves a vibrant rigatoni alla carbonara, characterized by its deep golden hue and chunks of succulent guanciale. Find them at Santo Palato, Piazza Tarquinia, 4a/b, 00183 Rome.

Gnocchi with Oxtail Sauce

Roman cuisine often features dishes where a meat braised in tomato sauce serves as both a rich pasta sauce and a hearty main course. The epitome of such dishes is coda alla vaccinara, oxtail simmered with tomato and celery, sometimes enhanced with raisins, pine nuts, and spices. This preparation exemplifies the tender, flavorful meat that defines Roman culinary tradition.

Where to try it: At the renowned Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto, you can choose between dried or fresh pasta to accompany their rich, dark oxtail sauce. Opt for their homemade potato gnocchi for an ideal pairing. Visit Trattoria Da Cesare al Casaletto at Via del Casaletto, 45, 00151 Rome.

Fettuccine with Chicken Giblets

Tender ribbons of fresh-egg fettuccine pair perfectly with a rich Roman ragu made from a sofrito and chicken giblets. This dish embodies Roman culinary tradition, transforming humble cuts like chicken livers and hearts into a sumptuous, velvety sauce that coats the pasta beautifully.

Where to savor it: For an exceptional version, head to Armando Al Pantheon, a gem in the heart of Rome's tourist area. Visit Armando Al Pantheon, Salita dei Crescenzi, 31, 00186 Rome.

Rachel Roddy is a Rome-based food writer and cookbook author, contributing a weekly column on Italian cuisine and culture to the Guardian.