The Urban Surge of Texas Barbecue

Every four years, Texas Monthly magazine releases one of its most eagerly awaited cover stories.

And it’s not focused on oil, the economy, politics, or tourism. Instead, it highlights something that might matter even more to Texans.

Barbecue. Specifically, the 50 top BBQ spots across the Lone Star State.

For those who hadn’t been following the dramatic changes unfolding in the Texas barbecue world over the last decade, the November 2021 issue came as both a surprise and a shock.

Missing from the top 50 were the long-established legends of Lockhart, a small town in Central Texas that holds a major place in the state’s barbecue history.

Instead, 29 of the 50 spots were newcomers. The No. 1 choice, Goldee’s Barbecue, opened just in 2020 and, shockingly, is located in Fort Worth, a major city. Meanwhile, No. 2, InterStellar BBQ, began in 2019 within an Austin strip mall.

As classic joints took a back seat to newer entries, Dinogo Travel spoke with Daniel Vaughn, the lucky barbecue editor at Texas Monthly, to understand how the rankings are made and what’s driving the rise of 'big city style' barbecue in Texas.

He also served up a selection of must-try spots from every corner of the state, helping you map out the ultimate Texas barbecue road trip.

How does Texas Monthly curate its list?

Creating this top 50 list is an extensive, painstaking process—so much so that it only happens once every four years.

“It’s such a monumental task involving so many team members, we spend around six months assembling the list,” said Vaughn. “We like to think of it as the 'Olympics of barbecue.'”

How do they manage to pull it off?

He mentioned that over 30 staff members travel across the state, and added, 'My full-time role is essentially a scouting mission for the next top 50. I’m writing about the places I visit, but the core of my job is to try all the new barbecue joints popping up around Texas.'

Vaughn compiles a long list and divides it among the team. Before they set out, he gives them barbecue tasting lessons in the office. They then complete score sheets and return to review everything.

Then the team heads out once more to narrow it down to the top 10.

'When it comes to the No. 1 spot… it’s such a close call between the top 10. Once you make it into the top 10, the gap between No. 1 and No. 10 is nearly invisible.'

It all comes down to 'who doesn’t make a mistake. We visited Goldee’s several times, trying to catch them slipping, but they never did.'

Here’s the latest top 10 barbecue list from Texas Monthly:

1. Goldee’s Barbecue (Fort Worth)

2. InterStellar BBQ (Austin)

3. Truth Barbeque (Houston)

4. Burnt Bean Co. (Seguin)

5. LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue (Austin)

6. Cattleack Barbeque (Dallas)

7. Franklin Barbecue (Austin)

8. Evie Mae’s Pit Barbeque (Wolfforth)

9. Snow’s BBQ (Lexington)

10. Panther City BBQ (Fort Worth)

Click here to view Texas Monthly's full top 50 list. You’ll see plenty of big-city and fresh names making their mark. And that’s a big deal.

Beyond brisket

Dinogo Travel wanted to understand what truly matters when selecting the best barbecue joints: Is it the meat? The sides? The atmosphere or the service?

For Vaughn, it all comes back to the meat.

'No matter what cut it is, you want something that’s juicy and tender. That’s what really matters.'

'Obviously, flavor is key. But it’s about achieving balance—the flavor of the meat, the seasoning, and the smoke. None of those should overpower the others. They should all work together to create something extraordinary.'

Back in 2017 and 2013, what set the top barbecue joints apart was often the quality of their brisket.

'These days, it’s not quite the same. There are so many places doing incredible brisket that it no longer stands out as the defining factor. That was really surprising to us,' he said.

'So it boils down to how well you’re preparing the other proteins, how solid the rest of the barbecue menu is: sausages, ribs, and whether you have any signature items.'

'When it comes to breaking ties, it’s all about the sides. Do they taste amazing? And for desserts—are you offering something more than just peach cobbler and banana pudding?'

Vaughn highlights the unique pork hash at Goldee’s, a dish typically found in South Carolina. He also raves about their sticky rice with mangoes for dessert.

At No. 2, InterStellar, the standout dessert is the Mexican-hot-chocolate rice pudding, according to the Top 50 list.

These extra touches can push a place ahead of the competition.

Lockhart’s exclusion

Located in the heart of Texas and deep in the heart of barbecue tradition, Lockhart holds a legendary status that’s been built over decades. So how did locals react when none of its iconic joints made the Top 50 list for 2021?

Vaughn acknowledged that it was a surprise to those who hadn’t visited Lockhart, about 35 miles south of Austin, in the last decade or so. 'For the barbecue enthusiasts, though, I don’t think it was that shocking,' he said.

He pointed out the steady decline of Lockhart’s presence on the top 50 list. This didn’t all happen with the 2021 list, Vaughn noted.

So what went wrong? Or rather, 'what didn’t happen?' might be a better question.

These beloved spots aren’t getting complacent or serving up the same dishes from 20 years ago, Vaughn explained. They just aren’t evolving.

'When they don’t adapt, it becomes glaringly obvious, especially when new, hungry, and talented players enter the scene with more freedom to innovate and try something fresh,' he said.

A new generation of barbecue masters has emerged in Texas—and so has a new generation of barbecue lovers.

'The days of accepting a bad meal and thinking, 'They must have just had an off day. We'll try again next time,' are over. Now it’s more like, 'That was terrible. I’m not coming back.' There are too many options where you know that won’t happen,'” said Vaughn.

The rise of big-city barbecue

So, is this a barbecue revolution?

'We’re pretty far into this now. It’s been about 10 years since we started doing barbecue like this,' Vaughn explained. 'I don’t think we’re in the middle of a revolution; I think the revolution has already happened.'

Newly opened joints are simply mimicking the style of recent hot spots. 'That’s why we have such a high concentration of amazing barbecue in Texas,' Vaughn said.

Historically, Texas barbecue was defined by distinct regional styles. For instance: South Texas with barbacoa de cabeza (beef head barbacoa); East Texas with saucy ribs and chopped brisket served on a bun; Hill Country where the meat is cooked directly over the coals; and Central Texas, rooted in meat market traditions.

But the key phrase here is 'in the past.'

'The differences between the regional styles of Texas barbecue are becoming less and less defined,' Vaughn noted.

'There’s a new style emerging. I call it 'big city barbecue.' This is the style that has taken over the state, and it’s even spreading beyond Texas,' Vaughn explained.

What sets it apart?

'When I say big city barbecue, I mean a menu that offers a wide range of proteins, includes unique items that break from tradition, features house-made sausages, uses top-tier ingredients, and presents a variety of sides and desserts,' Vaughn explained. These places might also serve alcohol.

'This style of barbecue has really taken off across the state, especially in larger cities. It’s a more upscale, costly style compared to the traditional joints,' he said.

'Whether you're at Evie Mae’s in Lubbock, Truth Barbecue in Houston, or 2M Smokehouse in San Antonio, you're generally experiencing the same style of barbecue,' Vaughn noted.

The smaller towns in Texas struggle to compete with the emphasis on high-quality, diverse, and pricier offerings that these bigger city spots focus on, Vaughn said.

Vaughn observed that this style of barbecue is quickly spreading.

'I can't visit a major city in the U.S., or really anywhere around the globe, without stumbling upon some form of Texas-style barbecue,' Vaughn said. 'It's spread so quickly, it's almost hard to believe.'

Barbecue road trip tips

'Inspired to take a barbecue road trip through Texas? Keep in mind, it's a huge state no matter how you slice it. If you're short on time but still want to sample some of the best, what's the best region to focus on? Start with the state's largest city.'

'I'd argue the Houston area has the highest concentration of exceptional barbecue,' Vaughn said. 'I can't think of any other region in Texas with more top-tier barbecue than that.'

Some of Vaughn's top recommendations for the Houston area include: Truth Barbecue, Pinkerton’s Barbecue, Corkscrew Barbecue, Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Killan’s Barbecue, Feges Barbecue.

He also pointed out that Blood Bros. BBQ in Houston 'truly embodies the modern barbecue movement.'

But what if Houston's vastness feels overwhelming to tackle?

'If you're looking for a more condensed area, Austin would be your best bet,' Vaughn said. 'In Austin, you can easily visit four or five barbecue joints in just a few hours, while in Houston, it might take you the entire day to hit that many.'

On the fringes

Texas is vast, and knowing that Goldee's in Fort Worth is a must-visit won't help if you're in El Paso or Brownsville. To make things easier, Vaughn highlighted some must-try spots in the far corners of the state:

West Texas: Desert Oak Barbecue in El Paso, Convenience West BBQ in Marfa, and PODY’S BBQ in Pecos.

Panhandle: Notable BBQ joints include Tom and Bingo’s BBQ in Lubbock, Evie Mae’s BBQ in Wolfforth, Pitforks & Smokerings BBQ in Slaton, Tyler’s Barbeque in Amarillo, and Rejino Barbecue in Olton.

East Texas / Piney Woods: Standout spots are Stanley’s in Tyler, Joseph’s Riverpor Bar-B-Q in Jefferson, Sunbird Barbecue (food truck) in Longview, JW’s Barbecue in Jacksonville, and Bodacious Barbecue in Hallsville.

Southeast Texas / Beaumont: Notable places include 1701 Barbecue, Charlie’s Bar-B-QUE & Catering, Patillo’s BBQ, and Gerard’s Barbecue.

Rio Grande Valley: Try Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville, Teddy’s Barbecue in Weslaco, Vargas Barbecue in Edinburg, GW’s BBQ in San Juan, and T-Ghost in Weslaco.

Exploring big city barbecue beyond the top 50 list

Not making the top 50 list doesn’t mean a place can’t deliver a standout meal. Vaughn shared his top picks for excellent BBQ spots in the largest Texas cities:

Austin: Check out Stiles Switch BBQ, Rollin Smoke BBQ, Moreno Barbecue, and Whitfield’s.

Dallas: Popular choices include Oak’D BBQ, Smokey John’s BBQ, Pecan Lodge, and Lockhart Smokehouse.

Fort Worth: Some must-visit spots are Derek Allan’s Texas Barbecue, Heim Barbecue, Brix Barbecue, and Cousin’s BBQ.

Houston: Don’t miss Gatlin’s BBQ, Harlem Road Texas BBQ, Pizzitola’s BBQ, and Roegels Barbecue Co.

San Antonio: Be sure to try Barbecue Station, South BBQ & Kitchen, Smoke Shack, and Curry Boys BBQ.

Has Texas barbecue reached its peak? Vaughn says absolutely not.

“It’s always onward and upward,” Vaughn declared. “There’s never been a better time to enjoy Texas barbecue. I would have said that back in 2017, and I would have said it in 2013 too.”