The Vanishing Classic Trattorias of Rome

In Rome, the charm of traditional trattorias and osterias faces a tough challenge from rising rents near iconic landmarks. Many long-standing family-run Mytouries are forced to either upscale and refine their offerings or risk becoming tourist traps.

However, a short stroll down a less-traveled side street might reveal a family-owned trattoria still serving up beloved recipes passed down through generations.

These humble trattorias and osterias (which have blurred into one) strike a nostalgic balance between bustling pizzerias and fine dining. Expect squeaky doors, mismatched furniture, faded family photos, and the comforting aroma of garlic, herbs, and olive oil infusing every dish.

‘We really keep it simple with just five primi and five secondi,’ says Cristina Pernasetti, the lively matriarch of Da Oio a Casa Mia, a staple in Testaccio renowned for its classic Roman fare. The Mytoury’s exterior blends seamlessly with its surroundings, so I suggest using landmarks rather than the unassuming facade to find it. Inside, the ambiance is straight out of a film, featuring checkered tablecloths, ceramic wall decorations, and a lively bar scene.

The entrance to Enoteca Corsi is tucked away on a quaint side street nestled between the Pantheon and the Forum, two of Rome’s major landmarks.

‘Being a bit off the beaten path has been a blessing,’ reflects Fabrizio Corsi, 77, the no-nonsense co-owner. Originally a wine shop since 1929, it moved to its current spot—a former post office—six years later. The space is split, with the more enchanting half resembling a shrine to wine, boasting thousands of bottles. Corsi takes pride in the diverse clientele, from nobility and politicians to celebrities and everyday workers.

Stendhal, the 19th-century French literary giant, frequently visited Rome and often stayed near modern-day Enoteca Corsi, on Piazza della Minerva. His writings brim with vivid depictions of communal tables, friendly chatter, and unpretentious yet flavorful meals. He once remarked, despite the Vatican’s imposing presence: ‘In Rome, there are more taverns than churches!’

This is no longer the case. Each year seems to see the closure or transformation of a few of Rome’s traditional trattorie and osterie. Yet, the silver lining is that the survivors often embody the true spirit of their neighborhoods.

At 79, Rosanna Borrelli, once a housewife from San Lorenzo near the historic Sapienza University of Rome, decided to take a bold step after her husband, an electrician, passed away. Known for her culinary skills, Borrelli was approached by two family friends in 1989 to start a trattoria. Thus, Tram Tram was born two years later in a building that had been a tavern since the 1930s—its former name, Bottiglieria Ramponcino, still visible on the architrave. The trattoria’s name pays tribute to the city trams that pass by regularly, and the space is adorned with vintage tram seats and luggage racks.

Borrelli's family is deeply involved in Tram Tram, with her daughters Antonella and Fabiola, and grandson Gianluca, all contributing. One evening, Gianluca, 21, proudly pointed to a photo of his mother, aunt, and grandmother, taken right where they stood: ‘My mother was pregnant with me in this picture,’ he said with pride.

The menu at Tram Tram offers a delightful blend of classic Roman fare with a touch of Puglia’s seafood specialties, reflecting the southern Italian heritage of Borrelli’s parents. Even as she nears 80, Borrelli remains hands-on in the kitchen, though she has reduced her hours on medical advice. Despite this, she still checks on dishes like fig crostata, with no plans to retire anytime soon.

‘If I enjoy what I’m doing and the customers are pleased, why would I stop?’ she remarked.

Ar Grottino der Traslocatore is nestled in Garbatella, a district that emerged during Rome’s post-World War I expansion. The name, with its distinct Roman twist — where 'l' turns into 'r' and the words are practically yelled — makes locals from other parts of Italy smile. Loosely translated, it means 'In the Little Grotto of the Mover.'

The only exterior sign reads ‘Trattoria Romana.’ Just a few steps down, you’ll find a small staircase leading into the trattoria’s ‘Little Grotto,’ a 1924 building adorned with shiny tiles, red-and-white checkered tablecloths, and wrought-iron shelves stocked with olive oil and wine. The food is served through a small kitchen window. Up until a decade ago, the trattoria was so authentically Roman that it used a listino di prezzi — a price list — instead of the French-derived 'menu.'

Chiara Broccucci, 30, who runs Ar Grottino with her sister Francesca and father Franco (the former mover for whom the place is named), is deeply invested in the trattoria’s role in the neighborhood’s history. When asked what dish she’d recommend to newcomers, she enthusiastically suggested coda alla vaccinara, a classic Roman oxtail stew. ‘Talking about coda is like the pope discussing St. Peter,’ she said.

Chiara’s grandparents, Benito and Marisa, opened Ar Grottino in 1967, and it has remained largely unchanged since then. Chiara hopes it will continue this way until her own children or perhaps grandchildren take over. However, she did admit that there might be one modern update they’re contemplating.

‘Well,’ she admitted, ‘we’re considering adding Wi-Fi.’

Da Oio a Casa Mia, Via Galvani, 43, 00153 Rome, Enoteca Corsi, Via del Gesù, 87, 00186 Rome, Tram Tram, Via dei Reti, 44, 00185 Rome, and Ar Grottino der Traslocatore, Largo delle Sette Chiese, 2, 00145 Rome

To dive deeper into the world of trattorias, check out this video.

Eric J. Lyman is a sommelier and former chef now freelancing in Rome, specializing in current events, features, and insightful commentary.