These Islands Provide the Ultimate Nature Retreat — No Passport Needed

The lake trout were clearly eager to bite. Just five minutes after our guide, Marina Alexander, set up the fishing lines at the northeastern tip of Isle Royale in Lake Superior, I caught a two-pound trout. Its shimmering, mottled body sparkled under the sun. “Catching a lake trout is enjoyable,” Alexander told my partner, Brian, and me, “but catching salmon is even better. They put up a fierce fight when hooked!”

At 28 years old, Alexander has spent every summer of her life in Isle Royale National Park, an archipelago with over 400 islands. The park covers 850 square miles, with 99 percent designated as wilderness. Four-fifths of the area consists of water, part of one of the largest fresh water bodies on the planet. At its heart lies the 45-mile-long, nine-mile-wide Isle Royale.

Access to this car-free island is quite limited. You can reach it by floatplane or ferry from just four locations in Michigan and Minnesota (unless you have your own boat). The winter conditions are severe, so the park is open for only six months of the year. Consequently, Isle Royale is often described as one of the most remote and least-visited national parks in the United States.

So, what draws people here? Visitors can experience genuine solitude in a wilderness that feels untouched, despite a human presence that dates back millennia. Initially introduced by the Anishinaabe, practices like mining, fishing, and logging became established industries with European settlement. The opening of the Soo Locks in 1855 allowed freighters to access Lake Superior, boosting tourism to the islands. Concerned about preserving the pristine landscape, seasonal residents successfully petitioned Congress to designate it as a national park, which became official in 1940.

Today, Isle Royale is a sanctuary in an inland sea, featuring dense pine forests and diverse wildlife — nearly 900 moose are managed by a wolf population of around 30. To explore, visitors must traverse the island’s 165 miles of hiking trails, which lead to expansive inland lakes, along a rugged ridgeline, and beside a dramatic, rocky coastline.

I was raised in Minnesota, at the western edge of Lake Superior, but had only visited Isle Royale once, a decade ago, on a four-day solo hiking adventure. Friends have kayaked around the island, scuba-dived among the shipwrecks scattered across the reefs, and sailed from the mainland to anchor in hidden harbors. However, I favor the straightforwardness of backpacking. After a long absence, I felt a strong pull to return and introduce this enchanting place to my partner.

Like many U.S. national parks, Isle Royale is seeing a surge in interest. Visitor numbers hit a record 21,654 in 2023. While that may seem modest compared to other parks, the influx has put a strain on Isle Royale’s overnight facilities. Accommodations are limited to just two locations, Rock Harbor Lodge and Washington Harbor Camper Cabins, along with various campgrounds scattered throughout the island. (You can also camp on your own boat.)

We took our chances on securing a campsite for two nights, and also made a reservation — six months ahead of time — for two nights at Rock Harbor Lodge. Our cabin featured large windows overlooking Tobin Harbor, offering a delightful view of seaplanes arriving from the mainland.

Upon arriving by seaplane two days earlier, during an unusually warm late afternoon, we hurried along the Rock Harbor Trail, hugging the southern shoreline for three miles, only to find the first campground, Three Mile, fully booked. As we considered trekking four more miles to the next site, a kind backpacker invited us to join his group site where three of his friends and two other sets of campers had pitched tents. We boiled water for pasta, exchanged stories with our new companions, and turned in early.

Awakening at dawn, we set off down the trail to Daisy Farm Camp. With a large dock for arriving boats, rocky beaches, and private screened shelters, it’s a sought-after destination. We reached it by 11 a.m. and discovered an empty hillside shelter surrounded by pines where we could drop our heavy packs. Free to roam for the rest of the day, Brian and I hiked inland, a mile and a half up the Mount Ojibway trail, descending through dense woods, crossing lowland swamps, and reaching a rocky ridge where we stopped to pick ripe blueberries.

We pressed on through the sweltering heat, finally reaching a point far enough from the park entrance to savor true solitude. Continuing along the path, we found ourselves on a five-mile loop around Lake Ojibway, one of Isle Royale’s 200 inland lakes and ponds.

After our exhausting 10-mile trek, we meandered down to the dock at Daisy Farm Camp with our water filters, where we met an older couple savoring cocktails on their cabin cruiser. Like other private boaters, they were brave enough to attempt the potentially risky crossing from the mainland.

Over five days, Brian and I hiked approximately 40 miles and caught (and released) seven lake trout. On one of our last treks, returning to the Rock Harbor Trail entrance drenched in sweat after a seven-mile hike, we climbed out of sight, shed our clothes, and plunged into Lake Superior. The cold water jolted my limbs like an electric shock. Just as I prepared to emerge on the shore, the tour boat Sandy rounded the point with dozens of waving passengers, compelling me to stay submerged until they passed, the water stinging my fingers and toes like tiny icicles.

While underwater, I contemplated the more serious dangers one could face on Isle Royale. Throughout our journey, we heard tales of the harsh winter days on the islands and shipwrecks caused by fierce storms. Alexander recounted a time when she narrowly escaped a life-threatening situation while navigating a 24-foot boat, having to outrun a black squall. Despite these harrowing moments, she remarked, “I love storms out here. The weather is humbling.”

That awareness of nature's might is what keeps me (and many others) captivated. For thousands of years, this archipelago has stood resilient, shielded from development by a lake that has proven impossible to tame, no matter how hard humans may try.

Accommodation Options

Rock Harbor Lodge is the island’s sole full-service lodging, featuring cabins and hotel rooms at its northeastern end, operating from June to September. The rustic Washington Harbor Camper Cabins on the southwestern side offer an alternative. There are 36 designated campgrounds available on a first-come, first-served basis (reservations required for groups of seven or more), with Washington Creek and Daisy Farm being the two most sought-after.

Getting There

Isle Royale is a car-free zone. You can start your journey to the national park from Houghton and Copper Harbor in Michigan or Grand Portage and Grand Marais in Minnesota. From these points, you can access the island via seaplane, ferry, or boat rental, depending on your departure port.

If arriving by private boat, be sure to contact the Houghton Visitor Center in advance to secure a docking permit.

Optimal Visiting Period

Due to harsh winter conditions, the island welcomes visitors only from mid-April until October 31, with the busiest months being May through September.

This article first appeared in the July 2024 edition of Dinogo with the title "Keeping It Fresh."