This App Guided Me on a Fairytale Adventure Through Denmark, Featuring a 13th-Century Castle, Charming Towns, and a Newly Opened Museum

From his room atop Gisselfeld Kloster, Hans Christian Andersen gazed out over the lush Danish countryside, with chestnut and poplar trees scattered across the fields extending to the horizon. Below his window, a tranquil moat reflected the sky, hosting a lively group of ducks. It was on a July afternoon in 1842 that the writer found inspiration, giving birth to “The Ugly Duckling.”

Andersen, affectionately dubbed “The Perfect Wizard” by a contemporary for his storytelling prowess, gained fame in the mid-19th century through the publication of around 160 fairy tales, many of which became cultural staples in the West, such as “The Little Mermaid,” “The Emperor’s New Clothes,” “The Snow Queen,” and, naturally, “The Ugly Duckling.” Born in Odense on Funen Island to a shoemaker and a washerwoman, Andersen rose to become a literary luminary, often mingling with Denmark's elite.

To honor his legacy, H.C. Andersen’s House, a $54 million museum dedicated to his life and works, has opened in Odense. Designed by the renowned architectural firm Kengo Kuma & Associates—known for Tokyo’s Olympic Stadium and Copenhagen’s upcoming aquatic center—the museum is nestled in the historic town center, surrounded by charming half-timbered houses and narrow cobblestone streets. As I descended a winding ramp into the museum's depths, I felt as if I were stepping into one of Andersen’s tales. Inside, the writer’s journey is depicted through photographs, drawings, and personal belongings, including a collection of heartfelt letters he penned to friends over the years.

The displays narrate Andersen’s life in a playful manner. Featured are items such as his iconic stovepipe hat, size 14 boots, and cherished pen, with some coming to life during the audio tour (the English script was penned by Daniel Handler, also known as Lemony Snicket). Tributes to Andersen’s beloved stories are present as well: one exhibit showcases 20 vibrant mattresses stacked high, inspired by “The Princess and the Pea,” while another reflects the allure of the Snow Queen’s mirror. An extraordinary subterranean room allows visitors to look up through a water basin towards the sky, reminiscent of the Little Mermaid’s longing to join the world above.

A satellite extension of the main museum is the H.C. Andersen Childhood Home, located in the half-timbered yellow house where the author was raised. Its rooms have been furnished to reflect the descriptions found in his autobiography, illustrating the family’s humble beginnings.

Throughout his life, Andersen was a constant traveler, describing himself as a “bird of passage.” While the museum provides an excellent overview of his work, I sought to learn more about his lifestyle. To do this, I ventured into the Danish countryside that served as both his home and muse. Utilizing the Hans Christian Andersen Trail App, travelers can explore a network of locations throughout the region that Andersen visited, mapping a route between the grand estates and mansions of southern Denmark. Here, he crafted new tales by day and shared beloved stories by night. The islands in the vicinity boast over 100 castles and stately homes, about 20 of which offer overnight accommodations. Among the highlights is the 13th-century Broholm Castle, where Andersen reportedly enjoyed wine with his meals before retreating to one of the castle’s romantic bedrooms. (Regrettably, during my visit, I found no pea beneath my mattress.) The trail also includes picturesque gardens, like Sanderumgaard on Funen, and house museums such as Egeskov, a beautifully preserved Renaissance castle surrounded by water that inspired many of his stories.

However, Gisselfeld, where the Ugly Duckling was conceived on that July afternoon, may be the finest location of all. Andersen occupied the lower floors of the castle (he had a fear of being trapped in a fire and carried a rope in his bag for potential escapes), while he penned his works on the top floor. Today, visitors can reserve a room at a charming B&B in the old gardener’s quarters known as Paradehuset and enjoy meals in the expansive orangerie.

Andersen’s tale concludes in Copenhagen, where he spent his later years and was ultimately laid to rest. His influence is ubiquitous, evident in the numerous statues of his characters scattered throughout the city—there are several iterations of the “Little Mermaid”—and in the namesake suite at his preferred hotel, d’Angleterre.

Dejligt — a Danish word that encompasses more than just the English delight, capturing an ethereal mix of charm and beauty — was the beloved term of Andersen. This masterful storyteller crafted a universe brimming with it. Two centuries later, that enchanting realm is still there to explore — whether through his literary works or the castles, towns, and landscapes that inspired them.

This narrative originally appeared in the December 2022/January 2023 edition of Dinogo under the title "Happily Ever After."