This Australian Island Is a Hidden Gem for Sparkling Wine Aficionados

Tasmania possesses a unique quality of light that adds an ethereal touch to its stunning landscapes. From the highest vantage point at Stefano Lubiana Wines, gazing over the vineyards that descend towards the Derwent River, it's clear why winemaker Lubiana, hailing from South Australia, chose this site 32 years ago. Yet, it wasn't just the breathtaking view towards Hobart that drew him here; he was pursuing a specific dream of crafting exceptional sparkling wine, necessitating a carefully selected location.

“I sought a region with a cool climate that was frost-free, diverse soil types, and an extended growing season,” Lubiana shared with me. Coming from a lineage of winemakers in Italy, he was among the pioneers to realize that this island state off Australia’s southeastern coast offered the ideal climate and landscape for his vision. Today, almost 40 percent of the wine produced here is sparkling, and it is increasingly gaining international acclaim.

In 2020, Decanter, one of Europe’s leading wine publications, recognized the E. J. Carr Late Disgorged 2004 from House of Arras in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley as the best sparkling wine in its World Wine Awards, surpassing many from Champagne and other renowned regions.

In June, I took a one-hour flight from Melbourne to Hobart, then rented a car and drove 2½ hours to Launceston, Tasmania's second-largest city. Although I was close to home, international travelers can make this trip as well—Australia reopened its borders to visitors in February. Launceston, recognized as a UNESCO City of Gastronomy in 2021, is home to nearly 90,000 residents and serves as an ideal base for exploring the Tamar Valley, where most of Tasmania's sparkling wine is crafted. The area has a haunting beauty, marked by its history as a harsh penal colony and the tragic near-eradication of its Aboriginal population. In spring, the landscape blooms with lilacs and newborn lambs, while winter brings crisp, bright days.

On my first night on the island, I dined at Stillwater Restaurant & Seven Rooms, a boutique hotel housed in an 1840s flour mill overlooking the Tamar River, known for Launceston's finest dining. After enjoying a meal of charcoal-grilled quail with local mushrooms and a restful night in a spacious vaulted room, I drove 40 minutes north to the House of Arras winery to tour the estate and converse with head winemaker Ed Carr.

Carr boasts a rich history of winemaking in Tasmania, having shifted his focus to sparkling wines when he launched the House of Arras in 1995. While some of his sparkling offerings are crafted from Chardonnay or a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, others also include Pinot Meunier, which Carr believes enhances their remarkable balance and complexity. 'We emphasize tannic structure, not just sweetness and acidity,' he explained.

Convincing the world that Tasmania deserves to be on par with the Champagne region or that its sparkling wines can rival Spanish cava or Italian Prosecco will require considerable effort. The finest Australian sparkling wines are primarily available domestically, lacking the international acclaim of other high-quality Australian varietals, like Shiraz. However, the samples I experienced during my visit could compete with some of the best I’ve ever tasted. Each producer has a unique style, characterized by bright acidity and a balance that suggests these wines will age gracefully for years.

Later that day, I visited Apogee, a small vineyard located about a 20-minute drive from Arras, where I met vintner Andrew Pirie. His lively wines are so delightful that they can be enjoyed immediately upon release, and it’s uncertain just how exceptional they will become over time. 'I had my first vintage here in 2010,' Pirie noted, 'and not a single one of my wines has reached its peak yet.'

I also visited the stunning tasting room at Jansz Tasmania, one of the state's largest sparkling wine producers and one of the few brands you might actually find in the United States. To fully appreciate what Tasmania has to offer, a visit is essential.

Which is hardly a chore. The following day, I drove back to Hobart along Highway 1, making stops at various vintage shops and cafés nestled in the small towns along the way. As I arrived at my hotel for the night, I reflected on the island's evolving scene. Just a few years ago, most accommodation options were charming bungalows available through Airbnb. Now, boutique hotels have entered the mix, including the Rox, which features luxury apartments, some modern and others stylishly retro, in Hobart. Two of the units are situated in a converted schoolhouse, boasting expansive brick-walled interiors adorned with Tasmanian pottery and artwork.

I spent the day at the Museum of Old & New Art, one of Tasmania’s top tourist destinations, situated on the grounds of the active Moorilla Estate, which produces some excellent sparkling wines on-site. In 2013, the museum’s team initiated Dark Mofo, a winter-solstice arts festival inspired by ancient traditions. During this two-week celebration, Hobart’s hilly streets come alive with revelers enjoying the vibrant food and drink scene that has blossomed over the past decade.

That evening, I dined at Dier Makr, a cozy, dimly lit eatery celebrated for its incredibly modern yet refreshingly unpretentious cuisine. I savored duckfish tartare adorned with vibrant slices of radish, alongside a delightful, frothy blend of sunchoke and cheddar. Paired with a glass of exquisite—dare I say world-class?—sparkling wine, it was a meal truly deserving of a journey, whether hours or days long.

A version of this story first appeared in the November 2022 issue of Dinogo under the headline 'Cheers to Tasmania.'